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That’s exactly it. I went Lectron to save money, ended up with a Teslatap anyway for the 80A.

Since he's got a ER Lariat, I would recommend against the 48A Lectron. It's easy to forget it's only 48A capable and can cause a panic when you realize you're inadvertently charging at 80A...ask me how I know.

This is just an opinion…but if you’re not going to go with the Ford charger, I’d actually recommend going with a Tesla NACS wall charger and an adapter. The cost will be about the same, and you’ll be able to future proof as everyone is starting to switch over. The adapter will also come in...

Accepted my first and second truck before the CSP came out…so….will let you know if either truck spontaneously combusts. FWIW, I’m still on the hook for letting some friends know if my Tesla catches fire. They’ve been waiting for 7 years now…

Oh you're right. If I go into my charge log, it'll show that same thing with the Tesla Wall Charger as well - along with various other L2s. Distinctly separating the amount of actual charging time and the time it was unplugged. I usually just click the details button in the blue section on...

I read it again and while he hasn’t confirmed, I’m pretty sure @MrPharmer2012 has a Gen 1. One other thing I realized today, if he’s calculating backwards from the app, it’s not going to be accurate. This is assuming the android functions the same way. On mine, I get 16-17kW even at 92-93%...

Data point here, got this today: Nothing was plugged into the bed or frunk outlets when the message showed, haven’t had something plugged in for about a month now…I did however update recently - within the last week.

You just keep doubling down huh? You're quoting Tesla's website..but you're late to the Tesla party. By the time you got in, Tesla nerfed the chargers and the cars. As an OG Tesla owner, let me link you to the Gen 2 details here: https://www.tesla.com/support/charging/gen-2-wall-connector...

There's F150 specific kits, but they seem to be on backorder or just generally harder to find. The F-250 Kits seem to be readily accessible, especially on eBay. The "F" kit is the camera only kit that you're looking for. "A" is Cam + TPMS w/ Yaw Prep "B" is TPMS w/ Yaw Prep "C" is Cam w/ Yaw...

I may have driven those same roads and bridges. I travel through that area as well with some frequency from the Richmond area through Salisbury and will cut across towards Gettysburg or up through Baltimore depending on traffic conditions. As a result, I’m averaging 3,500 per month in my early...

LH wire harness: PL3Z14631A RH wire harness: ML3Z14630H Pigtail connectors C535 (WPT-1449, Service Part # FU2Z-14S411-ASA) for the new driver door switch module Pigtail connectors C5020 (WPT-991, Service Part # 3U2Z-14S411-LCB) for the telescope switch. Connector pins (50 pins from Digi-Key...

The camera only kit is even cheaper! I don't remember the letter for that one but I think it was half the price of the one with everything. In hindsight, we really don't need the YAW sensor since we have the ability to use the stickers and I could've saved a couple of bucks. All I really...

Updated, it took longer to upload the videos than it did to install it...

I didn't have a ton of time this morning, but took about 5 minutes to do some checks before I set off on a full install. Good news, it works!! At least the camera portion. Still need to test the TPMS and yaw sensor - still need to buy the yaw sensor too. I'll update the original post with...

Will it work? TBD... Edit: Yes, it works! Step 1: Check and confirm the truck is setup for the camera. - Check center screen camera to see if trailer camera is enabled. Blue screen = enabled. - Check for 12 blade connector. This was on a 2022 build w/ Max Tow & Tow Tech. Step 2: Order...

Long distance road trips where I wasn't towing a trailer. Smaller mirrors = less drag = more range. I did it a couple of times, it didn't make a large enough impact for me to continue doing it and I've since kept the tow mirrors on.

You're likely to exceed payload/GAWR prior to exceeding trailer weights typically. I haven't gone over 10k, but I did go over payload as a result of some overzealous bed loading while towing a 9000lb trailer and the truck not so nicely flashed a weight limit exceeded message on the dash.

No issues for me today. Showed turn by turn in the middle of the dash and my watch still buzzes when it’s time to turn. All 3 were updated today, phone, watch, and truck.

Yup I do, only the V1s and V2s were capable of 80A. So 50% shot…

If you’ve eliminated the charger than it’s your adapter or your truck. Here’s some pictures of my equipment: To note, I did not start off with a Teslatap. I started off with a Lectron which worked…but even at 48A tripped my charger heat sensor several times. Here’s my app immediately...