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Non-BO is weak but I bought it on purpose with the intent to install my own set up. You can install this T-Harness in a base model stereo for an easy and custom install...

Thank you!

I built my first custom down-firing sub box for my JL 12TW3 shallow mount sub. Wrapped in black vinyl and added foam board JL logo. Ended up being a perfect fit and sounds great!!!

6.5s in the doors and not sure on the tweeter size. There’s a sizable amount of room for the tweeters in the pillars. I ended up drilling holes for the tweeters for a factory flush mount look in the rear doors just above the 6.5s. Most people would probably put coaxial in the rear doors. Hope...

This is what I did and the head unit offers plenty of power to my aftermarket Focal performance series components to the doors (clear past lvl 24). I also used a Scosche loc90 with a bass knob to add an aftermarket JL 12TW3 shallow mount sub that’s under my rear seat. Simple enough DIY install...

Also, if anyone is curious, the speaker wire harnesses that you can find at Crutchfield are the same as previous years.

Whatever 6x9s are compatible with the 2020s are comparable with the 21s. I bought speaker adapters that fit previous years for my 21.

I’m glad it worked out for you. I have a 5 channel amp that’s only running the sub right now since I’m not sure the best way to go from the head unit to the amp with out using a dsp and from the amp to the doors. I have focal flax series components in the front and rear which are running off the...

I’m curious to know how the shop wired from the head unit to the 5 channel amp to power the speakers. Also curious to know how they wired to the door speakers. Was there a dsp installed?

That makes sense. My amp has built in crossovers and bass boost so I guess it does the same thing as the lc2i. The Scosche 90LOC does have an adjustable knob for bass which helps also based on what music you’re listening to.

I think you’re going to have to remove the entire inside of the door to access the speaker.

Also. Here is the wire diagram for the stock 6 speaker system to match any line or Converter.

You can install component 6x9s up front and the head unit has a built in dsp so you don’t have to use the crossovers that come with the set. You can install 6.5s in the rear and the easiest is to use coaxials. Plug and play fronts...

Just installed a Scosche 90LOC to my 6 speaker system and it works great. There is no need to spend the extra money on a fancier LOC since this has adjustable output and fits great behind the head unit. I also replaced my door speakers with Focal PS165F component speakers from a previous build...

I’m having similar issues. Also, I sometimes can’t even access Car Play and have to use the Sync 4. The only solution I’ve found is when the truck restarts.

Got official word recently that the size of the speakers have not changed if you are referring to the non- B&O sound system. There are 6x9s in the front and 6.5s in the back. There are no amps for the non- B&O and run off the head unit. If you plan on running an after market sub, you need either...

I definitely don’t have a sub in my truck (yet). I’m trying to see what my options are for an amp interface. I think my options are limited until brands like PAC Audio catch up.

Does anyone know if the non B&O audio system is amplified?

I've been looking around to see what audio stores have for the 2021 non B&O. I've got in touch with Sounds Good Stereo in Nashville and they have provided me a list for things I would need specific to my build. Hope this helps:

Waiting for PAC Audio to release a Amp Pro 4 to plug into the stock head unit to do a full audio build. Either that, or going to use a LC7i and tap into the stock speaker wires for a signal. I just don’t know where the best location to get the audio signal from.