I think it just depends on the age of your seal. My seal on the door was at least 15 years old, probably closer to 20. So it needed to be replaced. But if your seal is stuff puffy and not to flattened it would definitely work as you found out.
I have the Undor system too and it works great. The door seal was a pain in the butt, not the end of the world though. And I only have one side installed, with the new seal and adjusting the travel it seals up pretty well.
Hey Matt, thanks for the clarification. Your youtube video has no information on it about where it was filmed, and the reactions from the two in the truck were so animated, it did have the sense of a spoof! Even the way he swerved the steering wheel seemed a bit delayed and exaggerated. Glad...
Per the user manual, it says 'When the hood is closed, the frunk outlet power is limited.'
They don't give you the definition of 'limited' though. I think it's been assumed on the forum that it's to idiot proof the truck from someone putting a crockpot, hairdryer, or some other device that...
The Hankook DynaPro's that came on the 23's are 36psi. I've always kept them inflate between 36 and 40psi, and my outer edges are gone also. Seems a common problem with these tires, or the alignment from the factory on the truck was bad. I'm at 35k miles right now with inspection due next...
I've hit 188kW and 178kW max on a newer EA charger in Kingston NY. It lasted a few minutes at most. Still took 28 minutes to go from 49% to 85%, tanking down to 60ish kW at 80%, so still followed the charge curve. Warm battery and a cold day!
But he's at 87% Charge and in Raliegh (assuming North Carolina)! It definitely means that there's only 66% of power available, but doesn't it also happen when one motor isn't working? I thought I remembered that as an issue also. If I remember correctly cycling the truck on and off a few times...
So I feel like this may have changed recently. When I charge to 90% and it's been in the 20's to 30's at night, my truck will say my range is between 265 to 270. I have a Lariat ER so that equates to less than 300 miles. I remember when they did the 'feel good' mileage change to make people...
Confirmed this weekend that my heat is working the same way it has for the past 2 winters. It was around 10F outside up the mountains, got in the truck and started it. Set the heat to 78 and Auto High. No air came out at all until the air got to temp (less than 2 minutes), then it came pumping...
So my trick is I find the bubble light on the wall of the truck, and the button is just to the tailgate side of that. Locating the big light is easier than trying to find that button in the dark. And totally agree, a glow in the dark button like they have in the frunk would solve the issue.
So per the manual, in AUTO it comes out the windshield vent and side window air vents.
I think it's intentional not blowing hot air in your face. Hot air rises which is why it's probably coming out at your feet in auto also. Not saying it's the best approach, but it seems like they did it...
I get this occasionally also. I use PAAK exclusively. I get the can't detect key message once a week or so. The trick I've found is on FordPass, I just hit the unlock button and that immediately connects the truck to PAAK.
You can go in and reset EV Driving History also. That will give you the default mileage (535km/ 320 miles) on the screen, but it doesn't actually give you any more miles, just might make you feel better! Until it starts dropping quickly and then you panic!
Not saying this is your issue, but realize heat pumps are considered 'cool heat' with the hot air it produces being in the 85-92F range, not nearly as hot as the air coming off the engine of a car, or even the temperature of the air from a resistive heater.
I would put a thermometer in front...