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I‘ve noticed over the last two years that most of my CarPlay connection issues are related to my phone not connecting to my truck’s WiFi. Manually initiating a connection to my truck’s WiFi generally solves the problem (making a tethered connection or rebooting Sync are only my last resort...

I updated FordPass on my iPad to test it. After doing so, IMHO, it isn’t worth it per many of the comments on this thread; and, won’t update the app on my iPhone unless forced to do so…

Yep, that is why I’m cross checking in my Tesla app to verify…hopefully, only a short term necessity…

I make a trip between Oregon & Seattle often. Although I regularly use the EVgo in Chehalis , I’ll often stop at McMenamins in Kalama to eat and use the adjacent EZStop chargers…they are 120kWh if not shared, but even a 50 min charge at 60 kWh during a quick meal works well…

I had to do some playing around and add NACS as an allowable adapter in Settings…it wasn’t intuitive. I created a separate “Tesla” profile for my truck, as my adapter isn’t forecast to ship until July, so I’ll use my original profile until it arrives….😎

I’m with you there. I have a trip from Oregon to Texas planned for this fall. I had a route previously planned in ABRP…changed the filters to include NACS 250W+ and re-ran the route….all but two of the charge stops changed to Tesla SuperCharger locations…now I just need to cross check them all...

Yea, my cover has provided enough of a seal that I haven’t seen any appreciable moisture….even driving back/forth to Seattle in the driving rain……….

After nearly 18 months, my install is holding up well. I have one additional suggestion: Trim the BedRug at about the mid-point of the tailgate….don’t have it extend to come along and out from beneath work surface at the top of the tailgate. There are metal retainers ( load strap holders) at...

I haven’t had the need to DC fast charge since completing the last related update. Have you completed the update, and if so, noticed any change in fast charging behavior?

Yep…I’ve been off the forum all summer😎. Thnx for the link!

Do you mind sharing the details of your configuration? I’ve been in a protracted discussion with my electrician over installation options as you briefly described. Thanks in advance!

I had a similar problem on my driver’s window. After parking while out running errands, the window would not fully open (stopped half way) when I got into the truck. I attempted to close it and got the dreaded bounce-back where the window stopped ~1.5” from the top. I could not get it to fully...

As noted in the article, no increase in cord length….at least on this test location……

@MickeyAO , I noted/posted a while back about my observations that the battery data visible in CarScanner didn’t seem to match up with the advertised data as to battery capacity. Tags on the F150L batteries seem to indicate ~143 kWh, advertised is 131 kWh, and CarScanner is showing ~128 kWh...

….it an take 6 to 8 weeks…..or, more…mine took about 2 months…..

No, but the dealer turned mine off during my last visit for service….almost forgot where to turn it back on………

True…I’m expressing absolutely no expertise…that’s why I hired this work out to a trusted, licensed, electrician 🤓. He was clear that the separation of the AC & DC conductors was his recommendation, not code, based on his work in industrial settings….and, was a conservative approach. I had him...

FWIW, although not required, my electrician is somewhat conservative and highly recommended running the DC conductors in separate conduit based on his industrial installation experience……

To elaborate on @RickLightning ’s point about cold weather effects on the HV battery: https://www.recurrentauto.com/research/winter-ev-range-loss https://www.geotab.com/blog/ev-range/ https://www.consumerreports.org/hybrids-evs/buying-an-electric-car-for-a-cold-climate-double-down-on-range/

Brian, glad you asked…I haven’t to date. 🤔🤷🏻‍♂️