CCS1 piggybacks on the J1772 plug with additional size, weight and “circuitry“ to accomandate DCFC charging and /or backfeed
CCS1 is big, heavy, 2 handed, unmanageable and requires more “circuitry” in both the unit and car. I’ve never seen the advantage of CCS1 over NACS.
Herein is the beauty of the Tesla NACS plug/cord.
That single plug/cord is capable of L1, L2 and DCFC,
If you use the NACS cord for any other EV, you need a J1772 adaptor for L1 and L2,
and a CCS1 adaptor (ford supplied) for (NACS) DCFC.
ie: Tesla Superchargers.
The Supercharger in Webster Tx IS NOT compatible with “other EV’S”
LOOK closely at the three types of symbols on the Tesla Superchager find us website.
A ⚡symbols means Tesla only
A ((⚡)) means CCS1 magic dock available for other EV’s
A NACS plug symbol means available for other EV’s but...
It’s not the battery I’d be worried about. Discharge rates under acceleration are relatively insignificant for a battery of this capacity.
It’s the components that endure the torque you're demanding from the motors that would concern me.
Motors, bearings, axels and CV joints, suspension, not...
Did your friend give you the adaptor for Tesla (supercharger) DC fast charging ? If so, why don’t you add the truck to YOUR Tesla app account and be on your way. Your comment about missing your Tesla leads me to believe you have one.
No fuss at all. Kinda retarded not to.
I never look for, or...
Well, this just happened to me also. Tesla Universal Wall Connector, with built in adaptor. Previously fine.
Tonight, Charging error message on my phone.
Truck charging normal.
any solutions ?
On a side note, I was talking to a lady at the optometrist who drives a new sleek Prius. I asked her how she likes it. (I’ve had 2, years ago)
She said she was having trouble with the car not starting, needing to be jumped and the 12v battery being replaced repeatedly. (Like it’s the car’s...
The “READY” light is a very important and very misunderstood indicator in Hybrid/PHEV/EV’s.
It means the “engine” is running and ready to be “driven”.
since we can’t see, hear, feel or smell that anymore, it’s an important indicator to understand. Its differentiates AcC mode from the vehicle...
Don’t ignore it, it’s telling you something just Like a regular car.
And the truck ain‘t “booted up“ yet, until she is in “READY“ mode.
The 12v battery Indicator being displayed is only a problem if it’s
still displayed when the “ready” light is on.
This is no different than a regular...
Yes, the mobile power cord is rated for a maximum of 30amps current. So on a 240v circuit it can provide a max of 7.2 kW.
often due to local demands you may not have a full 240v available and the power output will be somewhat less, ie 6.6 kW
I wish that there was a better understanding of...
Very cool insight Into the 12V battery cycles.
I can detect the 12V voltage difference between power off/acc(boot up)/on, when I start the truck,
by listening to my power seat motor.
I typically run my power set forward as I start the truck. The seat motor ramps up twice as it goes from...
Im curious, how do you monitor your LVB SOC ?
I want to ask When and why did you started but I follow it’s because you’ve replaced the LVB a couple times..
i have wondered if it would be possible to simply swap the 2.4 inverter with the 7.2 inverter, and the 240 power panel.
And Just forget about having 9.6 (both).
It may well work, but I’m not sure what would show up on the display
Exactly what I did. The new Universal unit literally used the previous existing mounting holes from the Gen 3 baseplate.
Super easy addition, with PVC conduit, although not quite as elegant looking.
Took a couple trys to set up power sharing feature via the install app.
The key is to...
so, here’s the install. Universal Wall Connector on the right, Gen 3 Wall Connector on the left. Universal has wiring pass thru for daisy chain connection. Works perfect. The built-in NACS/J1772 adaptor is really nice. Just un-holster the one you need.
The conduit change (for the truly...
Yes, they “talk“ to each other.
Since I’m only connecting 2, the new universal wall connector will be the leader and my Gen3 wall connector will be the follower. I’ll have to swap the new one into the original one‘s spot and then move the original gen3 over as the daisy chain connection...
13 years ago, when I installed my first EVSE, I went with a level 2 Schneider Electric EVLink, good for 30 amps/7.2 kWh.
It served me well for the 3.6 kWh PHEV’s I progressed through, and held its own charging my Tesla MY, at 7.2 kWh, with a NACS adaptor.
Early last year I gave into the desire...