Man I hope this comes to my area soon. With Geo and a HPWH we could be very comfortable during an outage.
I do need to find a good soft start for the geo though, which up till now it seems hard to find a well reviewed one.
I looked at reconnecting it but didn't want to deal with the coax. A new one was only $100 and mine is damaged both on the housing and at the seal, figured it was better to buy new.
Sadly its still thinks there is a GPS so it puts me in a city an hour away. Also wrecks havoc on my home...
Hmm.
Old SR battery mounted on a travel trailer, PPOB 7.2kw inverter rigged up, ccs and AC charging....power when camping, extended range when towing, and fast charging....
That would be a killer setup. Idk what SR packs are going for but if ER packs are $8k I bet SR packs are closer to half...
Agreed, although I have also heard you can loosen the bolts and move them a little for a touch more space, I might have heard switching them front to back makes more room, or also you can get a body jack and press them out a little.
This won't make a lot of room, but maybe just enough if there...
You need a Bluetooth OBD device and any of a bunch of cell phone apps. The one many, might even say most, use is car scanner elm obd2. This will provide the self reported battery "health" metric.
Probably worth searching this forum for that term so you can get a better sense of how much you...
I see the cranky members here got the thread off to a bad start. It's really a good place with few of the "old man yells at cloud" folks that you happened to come across.
Batteries dont really fail and need full replacements, but they do age. How much depends on use, habits, and environment...
Yeah, that's pretty much what I plan on doing. Getting the area professionally repaired would be very expensive, and its not an area anyone can see anyways.
Went to grab a trailer from the back of the yard and like a dummy forgot about an old zip line. The end effect is a ripped off roof antenna and some damage to the roof.
I have not yet looked up pricing for the antennas, trying to get the damage in order. Anyone else has a similar issue?
The difference being that in Europe the "standard" plug, the one you use for a hair dryer or even cell charger, is 220v. Hence pretty much every plug you ever come across is 220v.
300 miles driving and 20 minutes charging seems ideal, imo.
However that doesnt answer the problem for towing (which would be 150 miles and 30 minutes), big trucks, apartment dwellers, "whoops" situations, etc.
Right now the best real-world charging is about where it isn't bad at all, but now...
Nobody said AC compressor, but if its liquid cooled the coolant pump still needs to run.
The figure quoted here is 300w if the truck is "running", again, turn the truck "off" with ppob on and there is likely still 300w of overhead between the dc-dc, coolant loop, and the modules we know must be on.
Well I believe folks here have shown the DC-DC converter is live. The AC inverters are cooled from the liquid cooling loop, so the pump is involved. The becm needs to be active.
Not all the individual modules may need to be fired up, but a bunch of heavy loads are for sure.
My 23 was purchased in 24 and came with the mobile charger, but two pigtails.
The only pigtails I have ever heard working with the Ford mobile charger are the 110v, the 14-50 220v 30a, and the 14-50 220v 32a from the Mach-e. You can also trick it by giving it 220v on the 110v plug and you get...
I'm still astounded folks think the truck is actually "off" when ppob is engaged and you hit the key.
I'll bet that every module that is alive when the truck is on, is alive when the truck is "off" with ppob on.
I think what he is saying is that its still more than just turning the truck "on"...