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Home electrical panel output question

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We don't own a 150 but we are looking for information regarding output voltages and GFCI monitoring.
A) 240 volt 30 amp output..is this monitored by GFCI? We are assuming the 125 volt 20 amp output is GFCI but not the 240 volt 30 amp correct??
B) Has anyone bonded their output to the neutral in the house main panel? Anyone have anything from Ford regarding this issue? This is all related to NEC and bonded and floating neutral systems.
Thanks in advance!
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VTbuckeye

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They are all bonded neutral. The 240V is simply two 120V GFCI generated legs that are 180 degrees out of phase from each other.
 

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tls

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They are all bonded neutral. The 240V is simply two 120V GFCI generated legs that are 180 degrees out of phase from each other.
What do you mean when you say "GFCI generated legs"?
 

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VTbuckeye

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What do you mean when you say "GFCI generated legs"?
The 240V is made by two separate 120V circuits. In your home electrical panel there are two 120 feeds in. All of your 120V stuff runs on a single leg (hot, neutral and ground wires) The 240V stuff runs on two opposite legs (with hot 1, hot 2, neutral and ground). AC current alternates as a wave. The 240V current is two waves that are opposite (when one is up, the other is down and there is 240V between them with 120V between each on and neutral). Lots of generators are GFCI on the 120V circuits, but not on the 240V. The lightning has GFCI on both 120V legs of the 240V circuit.
 

tls

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The 240V is made by two separate 120V circuits. In your home electrical panel there are two 120 feeds in. All of your 120V stuff runs on a single leg (hot, neutral and ground wires) The 240V stuff runs on two opposite legs (with hot 1, hot 2, neutral and ground). AC current alternates as a wave. The 240V current is two waves that are opposite (when one is up, the other is down and there is 240V between them with 120V between each on and neutral). Lots of generators are GFCI on the 120V circuits, but not on the 240V. The lightning has GFCI on both 120V legs of the 240V circuit.
I understand how typical North American split-phase electrical service works.

What does this have to do with a ground fault interrupter "generating" anything?
 

VTbuckeye

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I understand how typical North American split-phase electrical service works.

What does this have to do with a ground fault interrupter "generating" anything?
Probably a poor choice of syntax. The two legs are generated/formed by the truck acting as a generator and they are GFCI vs power coming from a generator that is not GFCI protected. The GFCI is not doing the generating, but all that is generated is GFCI protected.
 
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The reason for asking is most 30 amp 240 volt outputs are not GFCI protected. We are trying to help someone with a 150 that would like to incorporate that feed into a sub panel. When that happens the transfer switch has to switch both legs and the neutral to avoid the GFCI tripping.
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tls

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The cheap option is a Generac 6852, which is a manual transfer switch designed for use with inverter generators which bond ground to neutral, as the F150 does.

The 6852 documentation technically requires the generator to be independently grounded to a rod, and gives a code reference. I believe the GFCI on the F150 has equivalent or better safety properties, and certainly this would be allowed for a branch circuit, but, if your local authorities are sticky you might want to make extra sure the code is on your side and have it in hand.

On other hand how can they really know what you're going to plug into that generator inlet box?
 

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The cheap option is a Generac 6852, which is a manual transfer switch designed for use with inverter generators which bond ground to neutral, as the F150 does.

The 6852 documentation technically requires the generator to be independently grounded to a rod, and gives a code reference. I believe the GFCI on the F150 has equivalent or better safety properties, and certainly this would be allowed for a branch circuit, but, if your local authorities are sticky you might want to make extra sure the code is on your side and have it in hand.

On other hand how can they really know what you're going to plug into that generator inlet box?
This requires a exterior outlet and feed from that outlet to the system. This cost depending on length of wire and amperage size will add approx. $1000 to your initial cost.
 

tls

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How were you planning to connect the F150 to a residential electrical system without "an exterior outlet and feed from that outlet to the system"?
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