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EvilUser007

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Many Lighting owners have noticed that Pro Power shuts off even when you click the "Keep Pro Power on when Vehicle Off" toggle. It is frustrating when you want to run a cooler or anything that turns on and off. If it stays off for more than 6 minutes, Pro Power will shut down.

The "trick" is to make sure you suck some power to let the truck know you're still using it.

How much power? 90-100 watts minimum.

So you can run a fan or a 100-watt light bulb, etc., but then you're using 100 watts ALL the time you don't need to. It turns out you can put an intermittent load on the Pro Power, and it will stay awake.

How intermittent? Very! Others have had success with various regimens, but my successful experiment was 144 watts for 3 seconds and then a 5-minute rest. Kept the Pro Power on all night and used very little juice.

I was worried about the heat generated from a light bulb or a heat lamp, so I did some math (Ok, I had AI do it, but I confirmed) and discovered a 100-ohm resistor will consume 144 watts if fed 120 volts. Note you have to get a resistor that is rated for MORE than the watts you want to run to it. This is a 200-watt-rated resistor getting 144 watts. I put the whole thing together, measured it with a clamp meter, and it was spot on.

To measure the heat, I used a FLIR camera. It was 94 deg F out, and the truck was sitting in the hot sun. The heat sink on the resistor was warm, but I could touch it at 111 deg F.

I wanted to see how low I could go on the duration, so I used an old Sears timer to tell me when the Pro Power went off. Indeed, if no draw, it turned off in 6 min. I tried 5 sec on, 4 min off, and that worked. I did 4 sec on, 3 min off, and that worked. I landed on 3 sec on, 5 min off, and that is good enough for me. I believe there is some magic time/watts that must be used every 5-6 min, but I'm posting mine as "good enough" at 3 sec on, 5 min off, 144 watts.

The whole thing cost me less than $40 using some scrap TREX, a few screws/washers/tape/shrink fit tubing I had lying around, and took about an hour to build.

YMMV, but happy coolering!

Ford F-150 Lightning How to make "Keep Pro Power on when Vehicle Off" actually work -- DIY solution 20260901T163703


Ford F-150 Lightning How to make "Keep Pro Power on when Vehicle Off" actually work -- DIY solution IMG_0995


Ford F-150 Lightning How to make "Keep Pro Power on when Vehicle Off" actually work -- DIY solution IMG_0984


Ford F-150 Lightning How to make "Keep Pro Power on when Vehicle Off" actually work -- DIY solution IMG_0981


Ford F-150 Lightning How to make "Keep Pro Power on when Vehicle Off" actually work -- DIY solution IMG_0982


Ford F-150 Lightning How to make "Keep Pro Power on when Vehicle Off" actually work -- DIY solution Resistor


Ford F-150 Lightning How to make "Keep Pro Power on when Vehicle Off" actually work -- DIY solution NEMA 5-15P


Ford F-150 Lightning How to make "Keep Pro Power on when Vehicle Off" actually work -- DIY solution timer



I need to give credit to the other Lightning owner who had the original idea. He used a light bulb socket and a heatlamp type device that drew 100 watts. But it was his link to the intermittent timer that sealed the deal. If you're out there take credit: great idea.

I think they call it a "reptile " heater.

https://www.amazon.com/LUCKY-HERP-Reptile-Heat-Lamp/dp/B0CQX962JG/ref=sr_1_3_sspa

I do feel more comfortable with my resistor and it's built in heat-sink.

Here's an IMGUR link with same pics but a parts list.

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EvilUser007

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imgur link with parts list and video
 

K6CCC

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Your own take and partially homebuilt construction version of what many of us are doing. I'm using the same timer, and a 200W heater with 1 second on and 210 seconds off (220 seconds was reliable, 230 was not, so I padded it a little to make sure it would stay working). With 1 second of on time, the heater essentially never gets even slightly warm, and should I have a need for it, I have a handy 200 watt heater that lives in the truck.
 

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I was worried about the heat generated from a light bulb or a heat lamp, so I did some math (Ok, I had AI do it, but I confirmed) and discovered a 100-ohm resistor will consume 144 watts if fed 120 volts.
A watt is a watt. A 100W resistor will (for all practical purposes) throw off the same amount of heat as a 100W light bulb. In a closed area, the temperature rise will be equal.

The actual surface temps of each device will vary depending mostly on surface area, which the heat sink on your resistor helps with.

FWIW, we had a power outage yesterday that the Lightning handled wonderfully. When power was restored, I was thinking I needed to turn the truck back on to shut off PPOB. Then I realized it wasn’t necessary. This is probably the use case for the designed behavior.
 
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EvilUser007

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A watt is a watt. A 100W resistor will (for all practical purposes) throw off the same amount of heat as a 100W light bulb. In a closed area, the temperature rise will be equal.

The actual surface temps of each device will vary depending mostly on surface area, which the heat sink on your resistor helps with.

FWIW, we had a power outage yesterday that the Lightning handled wonderfully. When power was restored, I was thinking I needed to turn the truck back on to shut off PPOB. Then I realized it wasn’t necessary. This is probably the use case for the designed behavior.
Resistors are rated in ohms with a maximum watt rating. In my case P = V²/R = (120volts)² / 100 ohms = 14,400 / 100 = 144 W which is less than the rated 200 watts.
But I get your point, it is basically a heater. But his one has a nice heat sink and that made me feel a bit better in case, for some inexplicable reason, the timer failed and it was continuously on.
 

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K6CCC

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144 watts continuously into a 200 watt resistor will get quite hot after a while. When I set up the heater, I always place it such that the heat wont cause a problem in case the timer fails. Sounds like we both think alike on that part...
 

K6CCC

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Absolutely insane that we have to jump through these hoops
True, but at least there is a workaround. It could be worse - and there would be no way to keep it on at all.
 

Altivec

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Only at Ford...Do they believe that having customers concoct these things is safer.
 

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jpatt2020

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What's the point? Don't you want your pro power turning off if there isn't any current flux? I think this feature is good.
 

Red_Lightning

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... But his one has a nice heat sink and that made me feel a bit better in case, for some inexplicable reason, the timer failed and it was continuously on.
This is literally why fuses were invented. Cut the circuit when unexpected conditions present themselves so a small issue cannot turn into a big one.
 

K6CCC

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What's the point? Don't you want your pro power turning off if there isn't any current flux? I think this feature is good.
Not in many cases. The classic situation is powering a camp refrigerator. Once the fridge is cold it cycles, Easily will stay off for 6 minutes and PPOB cuts off. Now your food spoils.
In my case, I sleep with a CPAP which only draws a few watts - not enough to keep PPOB running.

This is literally why fuses were invented. Cut the circuit when unexpected conditions present themselves so a small issue cannot turn into a big one.
Not at all. If the timer failed and the heater ran continuously at 200 watts for my heater or 144 for the self built example above, the current would be no where near what a fuse or breaker would trip.
 

richl025

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A watt is a watt. A 100W resistor will (for all practical purposes) throw off the same amount of heat as a 100W light bulb. In a closed area, the temperature rise will be equal.
I'm not sure that's entirely true? Some of those 100W is converted to visible light, whereas in the resistor all of it is radiated as heat.

BUT -you are correct that if the light bulb is in a closed system the temperature rise should be equal (where the light is absorbed by the walls of the box and therefore converted into heat)

If someone sees any holes in this entirely useless and completely theoretical thought experiment, fire away...
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