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CerebralPrimate

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If ya didnt read the full thread here a body/paint shop ran the truck down to 0% and I honestly did not know what to do in that case because I never would have ignored all those warnings and didn't expect a rational person would either. I was ill prepared, so I am hoping my hard lessons can short cut the learning curve of others and maybe even stop others from experiencing the frustration of having to figure these things out on the fly. The summer heat and people short on patience (including me) made this worse than it needed to be- emotional self regulation and self control aren't easy when the fecal matter is impacting the air oscillation device in your life. Had I just known what to do, the situation would've been extremely manageable.

1- Using a fast charger requires the use of the battery management system (BMS). That system does not work when there is less than a 2% charge. The last time I checked, 0% is less than 2% so towing/moving the dead vehicle to a nearby fast charger will do no good- ask me how I know. 😄. For this reason, when taking the vehicle on a road trip, always have the mobile charger and the 110 adapter for it. Not everyone will have a NEMA 14-50 plug, but 110 plugs are everywhere.

2- If you do hook up a truck to a fast charger and the BMS is not working due to the battery being dead, there is a good chance you will fry your 12V battery. Not the end of the world, but why waste the $150? Just hook the truck up to a level 1 or 2 power source and you'll be fine.

3- There is a process to get a bricked Lightning out of Park. You need a jump pack, so maybe keep one of those under the rear seat. Use the hard key (hopefully ya have it- the fob contains a hard key shaft if ya pull it open) to open the door if it's locked. Use the emergency release in the cab to get into the frunk area. Remove the panel to access the 12V battery and give it a little juice with a jump pack. Press both the brake pedal and the gas at the same time to override the shift lock. Put the truck into Neutral, then press the Tow Mode button next to the shifter twice- note this only works for about 30 minutes, but the process can be repeated if need be. If the touchscreen is actually working for some reason, go to settings -> Vehicle -> press and hold Emergency Tow. All of this avoids needing wheel dollies. I was ignorant of this process, so the tow driver had to go fetch dollies just to get the truck to a place he could hook it.

Ford F-150 Lightning If you run the battery to 0% SOC - lessons learned, the cliff notes version 1783005668531-6q


4- Should your truck end up at a dealership, they have to tell you approximately how much a repair should be before doing that repair. Most states have a Motor Vehicle Repair Act of some kind, which requires a written estimate and your expressed approval. They can't just say what they are going to do, then figure out a price later. Also of note, if they are going to exceed the initial estimate by 10%, typically they again need your express approval. In my case, the work quoted was for the battery, but the hood/frunk would not lock down. They asked me over the phone if I wanted them to figure out why. I said yes. When I got the invoice, I saw they charged me a $300 diagnostic fee just to tell me the frunk module was dead, and asked a further $1,150 to replace that module. I said no to the repair and pointed out that they never quantified how much they would charge to figure out the hood latch. I didn't expect it for free, but $300 was ridiculous. We settled on $100- which in hindsight was wasted money due to point #5

5- There is a reset procedure for the frunk' latching system. With the hood all the way open, press and hold the glowing anti-kidnap button until you hear a series of beeps. That's it. Very complicated. Then press the button, or use the app, or your hands to close it. Of course, I could have spent the $1,450 the dealership wanted... and almost did as I was worn down by my whole experience by then... but luckily this simple procedure saved my day.


Lastly, although we all know and love these trucks, bear in mind that most people are pretty ignorant about them. Even the dealership service centers really dont see them all that often. So there's every chance you, or someone on this forum, or someone in one of the several FB Groups for Lightning owners, knows more than an avg service tech does. As such, leverage the knowledge base here before agreeing to any crazy repairs. No harm in asking around to see if anyone else has dealt with the issue you're facing. One of the biggest benefits of this forum and the FB Groups is being able to crowd source solutions... and most people are willing to help if they can.
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Sgt. Carter

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Thank you for taking the time to write this out. I’m very lucky to have an SA that knows Lightnings and she has been immensely helpful especially when squirrels ate into the HVB wiring harnesses. Your “Cliff Notes” version mirrors some of the things I had to do to get my truck ready for transport. Happy 4th!
 

chl

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WOW !
Thanks for the tips.
Moral of the story is do your best to never go down to 0% and inform 3rd party repair shops not to joy ride in the truck!

'Stealer-ships' are one of my dislikes about owning Fords. I encountered what I felt was gouging many times over the years with my Crown Vic and Ranger, though not with the Lightning....yet.
 

Chillguy

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Thank you for your note. I personally am deathly afraid of getting below 10% and I always schedule my trips trying not get below 20% SOC to begin with to give myself some margin in case fast chargers do not work, etc which has happen to me..
Enjoy 4th of July!
Happy 250th America!!
 

SFsparkie

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Thanks for teaching us from your painful experiences. After you explained it—all seems logical. But it has not been readily available diagnostic information for when I am sitting on the side of the road with 2% battery.
 

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Dspade

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I am a month into new ownership of a '25 Flash and i recall reading something about a secret transmission nuetral release or something to that affect that's located in the cup holder. Doesn't this allow you to tow when you are out of power?
 

woodsman

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yes thanks, I was thinking when i first got my truck. When we were in High School and got our first car we learned by talking to our buddies. You know stuck choke, check charging, slow leaking tires, simple things. Well I have no buddies with Lightnings. So we need this kind of interaction.
 

carys98

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I am a month into new ownership of a '25 Flash and i recall reading something about a secret transmission nuetral release or something to that affect that's located in the cup holder. Doesn't this allow you to tow when you are out of power?
There’s a great video with all the information you need for towing a Lightning. I keep a link on my phone so if I ever need a tow I can rewatch it while waiting for the tow truck and can show it to the driver if needed.
 

Mal106

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Thanks, great info. I'm wondering however about 2 things. First was the 12v really ruined by dealer charging attempts or by it's being totally drained through many attempts to start the truck and it's recovery not attempted. Second I wonder if a jump box or another battery hooked up at a fast charger would have allowed a charge. The big battery BMS does require 12v but not a lot of power.

As to the frunk. Because I disconnect the 12v if I leave the truck for a week or more; I have to use the key, unlatch the frunk with the lanyard and raise it manually. This disables the frunk system. I fix it by manually raising it to full open and it then works.

I have seen several instances where the big battery has been used to the point that the truck wouldn't move and was recovered by simply getting it to a fast charger.

Cliff notes version ... the 12v system is evil. Don't assume anything is wrong until you have a RELIABLE 12v source.
 
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Athrun88

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Great write up and guideance. Sorry you had to go through it on our behalf, but I'm sure it made you a better person because of it!
 

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DavidS

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Thanks, great info. I'm wondering however about 2 things. First was the 12v really ruined by dealer charging attempts or by it's being totally drained through many attempts to start the truck and it's recovery not attempted. Second I wonder if a jump box or another battery hooked up at a fast charger would have allowed a charge. The big battery BMS does require 12v but not a lot of power.

As to the frunk. Because I disconnect the 12v if I leave the truck for a week or more; I have to use the key, unlatch the frunk with the lanyard and raise it manually. This disables the frunk system. I fix it by manually raising it to full open and it then works.

I have seen several instances where the big battery has been used to the point that the truck wouldn't move and was recovered by simply getting it to a fast charger.

Cliff notes version ... the 12v system is evil. Don't assume anything is wrong until you have a RELIABLE 12v source.
This would require testing. Every vehicle is different but Out of Spec found you need more current than found in a jump box to switch the contractors of a dead Rivian R1T/S to initiate DC charging.
 

Mal106

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True, but I can't imagine one of those little boxes that will start a 7L gas engine wouldn't throw that contact.
 

PJnc284

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True, but I can't imagine one of those little boxes that will start a 7L gas engine wouldn't throw that contact.
It would temporarily but not enough to keep it closed. They ended up having to hook cables to an ICE for a bit while it charged.
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