Tips to Maximize Your F-150 Lightning Electric Range (Preconditioning, Hauling/Towing, Driving Tools)

[Alan168]

Did I read the fine print correctly? It says they "used computer simulations to estimate results"! If that's true, I can't accept the results as very useful. I would rather see real world data from owners that have real world experience - or from testers such as "Out of Spec Kyle". Sure, each individual result is not as scientific as we'd like because there are so many variables that can't be controlled. But over time, enough data points will give us a better idea of the real world capability of this phenomenal vehicle.

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[Maquis]

It also says to use the recirculate feature to save energy during heating season. I wonder if they know it automatically reverts to bringing in ambient temperature air all by itself?

Their credibility is weakened! Highway coasting forever!

I find that recirc stays put as long as I don’t use “Auto”. It does revert after shutoff/restart of the vehicle.

 

[Zprime29]

I didn't see any mention of tire pressure. Under-inflated tires have a larger contact patch and more rolling resistance, right? What is the ideal tire pressure for the stock all season tires?

 

[TaxmanHog]

I didn't see any mention of tire pressure. Under-inflated tires have a larger contact patch and more rolling resistance, right? What is the ideal tire pressure for the stock all season tires?

42 psi

 

[The Weatherman]

I didn't see any mention of tire pressure. Under-inflated tires have a larger contact patch and more rolling resistance, right? What is the ideal tire pressure for the stock all season tires?

42 lbs. on my Lariat ER Max Tow with standard All Weather tires.
It’s on the driver door frame.

 

[Calvin H-C]

I also didn't realize that warm weather would have an impact. All the early reviews seemed to focus on cold weather. I figured no big deal since it doesn't usually freeze here.

It sure does. I've been driving a Focus Electric for 5.5 years and it gets its best range when the temperature is around 20C (70F).

The interesting thing in hotter weather is that turning on the A/C for the cabin does not lower range all that much because the compressor is already running to cool the battery. It's worse during the initial cool-down but improves a bit once it is just maintaining the temperature. I'm basing this from observing how the guess-o-meter changes. Cooling ahead of time while plugged in let's it cool down without spending range.

Another thing that affects range are your tires. When replacing, make sure they are EV rated. Our all-season tires are EV rated, but our winter tires are not. The day we change over, we see about a 15-20 km change in range, which is about 10-15% for the FFE.

As for speed, the range is noticeably lower over 105-110 km/h (65-70 mph).

Regen occurs when coasting, and the FFE can be shifted to "low gear" at any speed for a more aggressive regen effort. My FFE has 134,000 km (about 87,000 miles) and it reports that almost 19,000 km (12,000 mi) are from regenerated energy.

I just had the front brakes pads and rotors done at 132,000 km, mainly because the rotors were pock marked - the pads still had at least 4 mm on them but we're wearing unevenly.

By comparison, we previously had an ICE Focus that needed all four brakes done at 65k and again at 128k.

 

[astricklin]

Probably the biggest thing is drive slower. Accelerate slowly and smoothly and then start coasting/Regen early so you're not engaging the friction brakes. Then stick to the speed limit or slightly under if the situation allows.

 

[Jseis]

“…drive slower... …… speed limit or slightly under if the situation allows….

This. It is why I averaged 4.1 Mi/KWh with my MME in the last 5000 miles (plus OTA updates). My 90 mile RT commute was perfectly smooth at highway speeds 51-53 mph and since I’m on rural 2-lane early, no traffic issues. Using the my same principles my Lightning ER averages 2.4 M/KWh. Tires at 42 psi too.

53 mph is the rural two lane sweet spot and with $5 fuel common, I’ve seen many 1/2, 3/4, 1 tons cruising at sub 55.

 

[hturnerfamily]

as a long time Nissan LEAF 1st gen 70 mile range vehicle owner(2)... and now the LIGHTNING, with a LOT of miles, I can tell you from my experience that NO drive mode makes any 'long-term' major or noticeable difference in actual real-world mileage range impact.

So, when you consider regeneration, which is great, and we all love it, you also have to consider the impact that that regeneration causes: more power needed, because the motors are now 'slowing you down', which impacts momentum, roll, and how far you go before you need the 'GO' pedal again.
It's a wash.

yes, it's a wash.

Drive in the 'mode' that you like the best, and don't worry about the 'what ifs' about driving in another mode that somehow might 'magically' get you to your destination with less power than another mode.
COASTING may be the best option, but we really don't have a 'coasting' option, since the truck will always be regenerating to some degree, even if we can't feel it. Putting the truck in Neutral might also be an option, but most will never go to this degree...

If you Coast, in Neutral, down a 1 mile hill, which is a 5% grade, your truck will have used basically NO power, and you have picked up 1 mile of 'free' range.
When you get to the bottom and now have to go UP the other side of a 1 mile hill, which is also the same 5% grade, your truck will have to use a LOT of power, especially if you want to MAINTAIN your speed.

In the same scenario, if you use 'SPORT' mode, with a built-in high degree of regeneration, and you then 'coast' with Sport mode down the whole 1 mile 5% grade hill, you might pick up some good power, but, at a cost: slowing.
When you've reached the bottom of the hill, you are now slowed to the point that you will need MORE power to get 'back' to speed, and maintain that speed back up the other side.
You've basically 'washed' the amount of regeneration you 'earned' coming down the hill.

One pedal driving mode is nothing more than allowing your truck to Automatically apply the physical brakes - and since 'Normal' drive mode is less regeration than Sport mode, you are asking the physical brakes to do MORE work, which not only wears more on the brakes, themselves, but also robs you of some of the potential 'free' regeneration that comes from not needing to use the brakes. Yes, the motors will respond with more heavy regeneration when applying the brakes, but the physical brakes helping to bring the truck to a slower speed is basically 'robbing' the motors of regeneration that they could do on their own - at least, that's MY take on it.

I use SPORT mode almost 100% of my driving time - whether the truck by itself, or towing our camper - I don't see the need to change anything, and I LIKE that the truck 'slows' very easily and quickly by itself, when I come off the pedal. If I don't need it to slow as quickly, I just apply a small amount of pedal. I rarely ever use my physical brakes.
I have used 'Normal' mode on rare occasions, just to 'see' if the more 'coasting' effect could provide some type of increased range, but it rarely gives me any indication, over the long-miles, that it is any real difference from just keeping the truck in Sport mode, especially when in cruise.

I think that no matter the argument, when it comes to 'regeneration' levels, drive modes, and even driving 'styles', there are SO MANY things that the real-world sends us that can impact driving range: wind, whether coming at you/against you, or coming from behind you, water on the road/rain, etc., outside temperature, inside temperature/comfort needs, weight of driver and passenger(s) and goods within the truck, tire pressure, tire size, tire type, terrain, other traffic, speed, etc...
There is no 'virtual' or 'computer driven' testing that can give you real-world everyday driving range 'numbers'... they are really only 'guesses', to help us manage our range expectations for long-range travel.

 

[spadesaspade]

All fair points. Could be wrong.

The argument is essentially that one-pedal driving involves energy losses both when decelerating and accelerating. So it's better to allow the car to continue coasting after the driver removes their foot from the accelerator pedal, and add regenerative braking only when it's actually time to decelerate.

I have read it is about a 15% energy loss between coasting v. regen. But most people brake too much, so they don't get the full benefits of coasting. That is why it probably comes down to how you drive. It can also be annoying to other drivers if you are trying to coast everywhere.

I wished that the lightning actually coasted like other vehicles, it still applies a small amount of regen when you let go of the gas pedal in normal driving mode. Or Ford should give that as an additional mode option to choose from.

Talk about those drivers who need to have theor foot on either the brake or gas pedal at all times, lol. I have driven in my friends cars who accelerate all the way till they need to brake and vice versa in their gas cars, no coasting even when they are getting to a red light. Had to change their brake pads at 20k miles or less at times. I have stopped caring about such drivers, they can pass me and waste all the energy they want while I get 35 mpg+ in my non hybrid sedan.

 

[Jseis]

In the early 70’ a college friend drove a Saab Sonnet (V4 Ford power as I recall). It had a “coasting“ lever on the steering column that you could flick and it’d electrically disengaged a driveline clutch. He’d regularly get over 40+ mpg coasting down hills and particularly on the hilly reaches of PCH 1 and US 101.

 

[csukoh78]

It also says to use the recirculate feature to save energy during heating season. I wonder if they know it automatically reverts to bringing in ambient temperature air all by itself?

Their credibility is weakened! Highway coasting forever!

100% this.... boggles the mind why it would turn off re-circulate when keeping cold air cold is far better than cooling off hot air.

I also strongly dislike that if I turn the temperature up on the AC, it will actually turned the heat on instead of just letting the car cool I wish there was a lockout button for the heat which is the biggest battery drain there is

 

[GoodSam]

I wish there was a lockout button for the heat which is the biggest battery drain there is

If "E-Heat" is turned off, does that stop Watts being used for heat? Ford info says e-heat is only source of heat!

 

[csukoh78]

If "E-Heat" is turned off, does that stop Watts being used for heat? Ford info says e-heat is only source of heat!

Yes, that is the only source of heat. If that is turned off, there is not heat and electrical usage.

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