Amp for new sub

[jackdeaoux]

So I went to a local car stereo shop last week to get an estimate for new sub speakers and amp. The dude at the shop said I could only get 1 amp that would work with my truck. Since it’s electric it needed this 1 amp that would not mess with the trucks electric system and cause a fault. It was 1900$. (Pic below)Seems like BS to me as I’ve read tons of posts about putting in all kinds of amps and audio equipment in their lightnings and none said anything about a specific amp for our trucks. The rest was pretty standard Focal in ford speakers etc. have the regular B&O not unleashed. Any thoughts on what I was told I needed?

Sponsored

 

[GDN]

In order to get the signal out of the Ford Head Unit to retain the trucks beeps and dings and bluetooth phone conversations you will need a device to convert all of those signals out of the bus to the amp/aftermarket system. Looks like he has one that is built in to the amp.

The first one to market that many used a few years back is the Zen A2B from NavTV - https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT873/zen-a2b.html. I have this in my truck for an aftermarket system.

I believe there are a couple of other companies making similar devices now, but the Zen was the go to device. Looks like it has also gone up in price a few hundred bucks. Used to be about $750.

Either way, once you get the signal converted/out of the head unit you can use any amp you want.

 

[I <3 My Lightning]

Well there are lots of products out there but that is an all in one package to power all the speakers and a sub and for dsp tuning, ect....

My 2 cents...

And what they are telling you is not false, FOR THEIR KNOW HOW, but IMO it's the product that they know how to set up and use with ford products where they are not using forescan to reprogram the system to kill the factory EQ settings.

 

[canthonyvidal]

I am considering that unit for $1599 (without bundle).
That unit is a:
1: A2B unit - converts the factory Ford digital signal to a usable format for after market gear, bypassing bass roll-off and factory tuning
2: DSP unit - Customizes and optimizes sound by adjusting EQ, crossovers, time alignment, and output levels for each speaker.
3. Amplifier - Boost the audio signal’s power to drive your speakers and subwoofer with clarity and volume beyond factory capabilities.

If you just want to add a subwoofer, you can do it with a kicker keyloc, amp and sub (search this forum). If you want to replace the factory amp you’ll need a A2B unit (Like a Maestro A2B, PAC AmpPRO 4 AP4-FD31, Nav-TV Zen A2B, mObridge DA-G2 A2B.)

If you want an all in one unit, then that mObridge is the only option I found. I’m having a hard time building all three of those roles for less than $1600. But if something fails, then all three fail. The audio place you went to wasn’t trying to pull a fast one, but they probably didn’t know all the different options you have.

 

[jackdeaoux]

Thanks. Appreciate the feedback. Sticker shock for sure but this forum is a great place to learn and find out info.

Sponsored