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+1 on the splash guards. Without them, the running boards get completely covered in snow and ice if you drive in winter conditions. The frunk mat is also great, if not only because it stops the panel in the frunk from moving around and making a knocking sound

You'll probably see it happen again. Rare, though.

Either you broke the laws of physics or your testing methodology was bad. Likely a combination of variables you can and cannot control led to this result. Weather, wind, feather foot, speed, etc.

No, not an issue. The air dam faults happen occasionally but it seems to fix itself almost all of the time. The other one is the infotainment system/sync. Very rarely it fails to boot so you just restart the truck or you can press 2 buttons on the steering wheel to force it to reboot. It failing...

I have some chips out of mine, but nothing like that! I planned to wrap it once it got bad enough. If you get a replacement through warranty, ppf will protect it better than ceramic coat, I think

If you have a trailer and you're willing to bring it, why risk overloading the bed? Just use the trailer.

Where did you order from?

Even if they're technically compatible V3 or V4 chargers, Tesla decides which ones they open to non-Tesla vehicles. You need to check the app.

You've had the replacement for the 3 colder months. That simple.

Slid on the ice, 100% As others have already mentioned, it doesn't matter. The truck will automatically put itself into park.

In a safe area: get up to a reasonable speed, put the truck in neutral, and stop using the brakes. Do this a couple of times. Regenerative braking is not used while in neutral, so this will clear the crud built up in your discs. It's a common problem with lots of EVs.

The FCSP is known to overheat and shut down when set to 80a, like yours is. Might be what's happening. You should be able to search and find others with the same issue. Seems most people dial it back a couple notches and it works fine again, though obviously at a slower rate.

I'm a bit confused as to which item is the actual puncture. If it's the long piece on the left, personally I would patch it and send it, but I know that is recommended against doing by professionals. If it's the object on the right, absolutely replace the tire.

And then they'll tell Ford: "See?! We can't sell the damn things!"

I took the link directly from your post and pasted it into fakespot. You've obviously done your research. I wish you the best.

Do you really, truly believe there is no value in maintaining a brand? You don't see the potential downsides to not having to do that? They have your money and the brand doesn't matter, so they have no obligation to help you if anything goes wrong. They've even already lied to you. Check out...

Except they're making it with no oversight from a US based company and often with a design stolen from a US based company. And when their reviews get bad enough, they just slap a new name on it and buy some more reviews for the new listing. Maybe they'll go with Greatwyll next time. You did a...

You're overthinking it. Something else has caused the increase in efficiency. Driving style, roads you're driving on, wind speed, etc.

Not necessarily saying it's good, but it says right there 1.2 mi/kwh. That's not 1 mile per percent, and would give you a range in these conditions of 157 miles.

Do not leave the truck on or remote start unplugged if you're trying to maximize range.