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Interesting. When I do a build on the website, it still forces the addition of scales when adding CCD. However, the max tow is not added.

Nope. it’s a minor issue that I’m sure Ford will claim is within tolerance and do nothing.

This type of rust protection is called Induced Current Cathodic Protection (ICCP), and it does not work for cars. To work effectively your truck frame would need to be submerged in an electrolyte (wet soil or sea water) to allow for the flow of electrons between a cathode (truck frame) and an...

I’ve noticed mine doing this. Also annoying is that when I go to audio, the screen always defaults to page 2 of the preset radio stations.

My Ford pass app says the same. It used to tell me I was up to date, but now it just provides instructions to setup automatic updates. My sync version is also out of date now.

The self levelling projector lamps definitely have adjustment screws. I know this because I adjusted mine after having a 4” lift installed. It takes 2 minutes to fix.

I put 285/65/R20 KO2s on my truck, and now it won’t come out of electric mode. The engine hasn’t turned on for the last couple thousand km. Just kidding - my mileage is crap now and I get far fewer electric miles. I’m just waiting for a new OBD adapter to correct the tire diameter and reset the...

I forgot about that annoyance! I’ve also had the issue with the window bouncing back down when trying to close it. For all the great improvements/innovations Ford has made in these 14th gen trucks, there seems to be an equal amount of cost cutting measures.

I’ve been generally irritated with how slow the windows are rolling up or down. However, I was downright angry after getting my interior soaked at a McDonalds drive-through during a rainstorm over the weekend. Are the window motors easily upgradable with something quicker?

I regularly used a Raceface pad on my 2015 F150. However, because of the thickness and curvature of the tailgate, most bikes didn‘t fit well in the middle of the tailgate (though I could still make it work). I‘ve since switched to a 1UP HD rack, which now lives on my hitch most of the summer

My red two tone with a bed cap has that grandpa vibe ?, yet I’ve already been pulled over and ticketed for tint on the front windows.

The height of my truck is approximately 80-81” measured at the centre of the moonroof (sorry, it’s hard to measure accurately). The Thule cleats on the topper probably add another inch above that. I went with stock coilovers and BDS’s NX2 rear shocks. I had Fox 2.0 coilovers and shocks on my...

I have a 1UP rack that spends most of the summer on my hitch. Yes, the truck looks better without it. I disable the backup sensors; but I do that even when the rack is off because I’m tired of the truck slamming on the brakes every time I’m backing up in a parking lot where there’s other...

4” lift with KO2s (285/65/R20) on stock rims. Before: After:

I’m not sure this is correct. My installer quoted me the 3.25“ block kit (BSD013437), which we measured at exactly 3.25”. That would mean that the 2” kit would be a 2” block presumably (not the lift height). Either way, I got a block measuring 3.25”, which produced a level stance.

I was just going by Ford’s website; It shows the plates as an option.

Because I’ve never checked, I decided to go make sure that my tire change kit isn’t missing. The wrench should be wrapped in grey felt material and strapped to the jack as circled in the photo. It would be really strange if this is missing from your truck.

The tire kit (jack, tire wrench, lowering tool) should be behind (not below) the 40% rear seat (passenger side). If it’s missing, check with your dealer.

The Boxlink plates are only standard on Lariat and above. However, if you have the plates, then cleats should have been included.

They are mounting plates for attaching accessories and securing items. Watch this video: