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I had to top of 2x since new then suddenly a 3rd and 4th within a few months… found a leaky line, replaced under warranty, hasn’t moved since.

That’s the only thing I didn’t do SMH .. I was in fix it mode lol. It’s kinda like a flat piece that has a cylindrical design hanging off at 90 degrees off axis to the flat piece that bolts on …

Correct

Well I can tell you I had a tailgate open message intermittently and finally permanent . Inside the tailgate is a connector that water literally drains right on top of causing it to get waterlogged… I had a buddy 3d print a guard that fastens to the unused bolts under the cover in the center...

There is a rotary switch inside to set the top limit, use that to set your maximum amperage, should be in the included install manual which position to put it in.

Well my dealer has a really competent EV tech, I arrived at 9am, by 12:30 , he had the battery dropped , line replaced , battery back and system bled. The coolant bleed takes like an hour plus. Great to see this small dealership have the talent and to be honest it was a great experience from...

I’m assuming they are buying an entire assembly , the part cost is almost $500 . If it was out of factory warranty/ ford protect I would have sourced the elbow and fixed it. It’s either the battery has to come out or the body lifted off the frame.. I sure hope the truck is the same after …

Well , went to the dealer today, good news is it’s getting fixed next week, bad news is it sounds like the entire battery has to come out to fix this …. Unsure why for a $2.00 elbow most likely a 3 cent o-ring. I believe it is a line that cools the rear motor.

Could be worse I guess .. more of a hassle than anything lol.

Well after a year of a problem free truck , I pulled it out after sitting a week in the garage and there was a small wet spot. I found the source , hopefully it’s a quick fix at the dealer , I’d do it myself if it wasn’t under warranty since it looks like a $20 elbow. This will force me to get...

When I bought my 2011 f150 used , I didn’t set it for weeks, finally got the master code and did. I find I use it quite a bit, not so much on the lightning with the Auto Unlock grabbing the handle. but I have at times when the key is in the house and I needed something out of the truck .. very...

I noticed this happened once today on my xlt…. Seemed to be an anomaly but it definitely locked on me as I walked away … I haven’t gotten it to happen again but it has never locked on its own as I walked away.

Truck has been great since purchase in Feb of 24….going on 2nd roadtrip this year again

I’d hope a 2022 isn’t rusted to the hub that hard just yet lol

Looks like rock auto lists the same part #… only so many ways to do a cv axle lol.. all usually held by a circlip, quick jolt it’ll pop out.

Worst case in a “I need to get the truck home” scenario , a small space heater would work with all of the onboard power we have

Exactly, I am partial to the kicker KS series since they have a crossover inline for the hi/low and are pretty sensitive and still sound decent on factory power. However an amp will wake them up and I’ll probably go with a kicker key compact since that’ll be an easy install and it tunes well...

I think a manual glass on the used side is like $300 … probably a fairly painless swap for a glass guy. I found aftermarket for $299 as well new, heated $329.. bet it’s not as quiet lol

I’ve had mine for a little over a year now… no issues so far… even did a 2000 mile roundtrip with it .. flawless . I do keep the old truck to do more “truck things” as why mess up the new one lol.

Download the Tesla app… use that to activate the charger. No need to reset