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thats a 35 inch

Roger

I have 315/70/17 bf Goodrich with a 1 inch wheel spacer and i believe 21 up raptor wheels, i liked using them bc it matched the truck. Im not sure of flipping crash bars, i just rather remove them

I used 1 inch spacers with the raptor wheels, and just a slight bit of trim on the bumper. I did remove the front bumper crash bar but the back ones are still in place. not worried about the ones in front, they just have to be unscrewed and bolts cut. no tub and flexes great, I do have a 2 5...

I have a 22 XLT

this just for reference, This is my Titan This is for reference, this is my titan xd

my nissan titan has stock wheels and they say the same thing but work just fine

Thank you and yes took me 3 hours, i removed the cv axle from the knuckle, the sway-bar and the steering arm. Then removed the upper control arm and the brake line bracket and the abs pins. and let it rotate back and the lower arm held it up enough. yes the tuff country are the better ones I...

I have a 22 XLT, I put 6112’s and rides so much better. Don’t get me wrong I liked my mom’s Caddy and that floating feeling but not everyday. These trucks float alot in the front. I also put tuff country uni balls on it aswell to keep everything within spec. Awesome all the way around.

if you are running it directly to your plug on the driver side, then you dont, you will just run the wire all the way through the firewall from the CCM to driver plug. and that’s the only place you would have to add the connection to the correct wiring. But if you wanted to have it to be like...

you will have to 1. tap into the wires or 2. i found cutting up a comma ai q4 wiring harness just lets me plug and play and i can rewire it with a deutsch. ill include the pics of the comma ai before when i experimented with it and the finish also the diagram. questions ask away i learned alot...

that is cheaper, good catch. and then deutsch it and pin it in the back

you can buy the ford pins to plug into where you have no pins thats easier then splicing and then run directly to the ccm. you just have to pop the cover off the clear piece then push the new pin in. its just adding pins

also ensure when you get in there if you do to first to see if your values in the ipma is turned on to power up the ccm. I had to look through all the forums and found it. So with just these two pages minus the programming which i have screenshots of i can send aswell, it will take you less time...

let me check and look into that, mine have park sensors on the bumper, did you check the wiring on the driver side to see if you had the wires? look at the pic here and look on the left side thats the ipma color.

like @B177y you don’t necessarily need the harness but does make it easier to plug into the ccm and then strip it and use the scrap harness for your harness and all you have to buy is ccm, harness, deutsch connectors, and the comma ai harness (if you don't want to cut up your factory harness)...

also go to the comma ai website and order a q4 harness, its 90 bucks but you dont have to cut your factory wiring. its in the experimental area, here is a closer look at mine since i know it works im going to redo it to tie it all together. as you see mine had all the wires and i just...

get a 24 ccm and the wiring for the ccm and then you can get a deutsch connector to attach it to the ccm wiring, get rid of the other parts of the wiring and what wires you have in it match to the closest color and simply drill a hole put a rubber plug in the firewall and inside you dont have to...

ok now i got the steering wheel switch installed and works flawless

ok I’m on the mends it works, i rewired the acc straight to the plug on the driverside and deustch plugged them. I just drilled a seperate hole put a rubber firewall plug and then ran my wire through that