Search results

Correct, the title was, as I admitted in my first reply, "click bait." It just FEELS and looks a lot more like a 4x4 truck now. With the bigger tires, winch, lifted and stiffer suspension it is a much more capable 4x4 truck, but no driveline changes. With the two separate electric motors each...

I initially had the same concerns. The last experience I had with spacers was a plate that went between the wheel and axle face (decades ago). Good modern spacers bolt on to the axle just like the wheel, and then the wheel bolts to them as per usual. In other words the only extra "risk" would...

Zeus, of course! Mine is going to be expected to not only provide transportation and job-site power, but also be part of the home off-grid power system so I figured the god of electricity (or as close as you can get to that) was appropriate.

I have the same problem for the same reason. I hate and don't want to get used to the BSIS, largely because I often drive older cars that don't have it and believe I would get used to no little light in the mirror means coast is clear. I'd much rather have the convex mirrors I'm used to...

In my opinion Ford screwed the pooch with the OEM shifter, primarily because of the motors that put it into park and fold it. If they had made it without the motors I bet it would have a +90% lower failure rate. I'm not spending $800 on the column shift, so not investigating it enough to...

I too thought that dial-shifters were the stupidest thing since..... sliced pudding, that is until I encountered this shifter and the inevitable vulnerabilities. An overly complicated design for one of the most used fixtures in a truck was a REALLY bad idea. I get that it obviously has to be...

So the dial doesn't actually physically stop on one end of the rotation or the other, its just that the selector and indicator stop (electronically). I assume there is no tactile (clicking) feedback as you move from "P" to "R" to "N" to "D" So, I can reach down and give the dial a generous...

I like that the dial physically stops at "D," as I hand wondered if I'd have to be very attentive (looking) as to where it was pointing, or could just do it by muscle memory/feel like a shifter. Does it also physically stop on the other end of the rotation, "P" since most of the time those...

YUP, we are driving enormous batteries that also are able to do a few other things. ;)

Oops, here’s an “in-house link” for the 2.4kW 240v setup. an additional 240v 20amp OUTPUT at the rear BED outlets, via a 'Y' adapter: THANKS! Yes, as I educate myself I have learned about the issues with un-synchronized 120 to get to 240 (I was looking at it from a charging point), so that's...

@Runaway Tractor @chl seems like the two of you can give me a trustworthy answer: What would be the least expensive approach to getting the max home energy out of my 2023 with ER and Tow package (9.6kW). I'm thinking two 30amp Generac (or similar) switch setups with select breakers for the...

I believe you can just divide the battery pack size, say 131kWh by the hourly load, say 3000W or 3kWh to get your answer (43hrs) or 50hrs for 2600w.

Great points on overlooked opportunity, especially the shifter. Replace that POS with the dial selector that folks are retrofitting and pass the savings on. I guess different plastic (tinted) for the front light bar would be an expense, but WELL worth it for many of us.

YES, and the best easiest cheapest way to do that is bigger tires.

I think BOTH would be AWESOME and would show the versatility of the platform!

Well, I think "LipSTX on a pig" is a bit harsh (but appreciate the punny "lipSTX"), but I do generally agree that it is mostly cosmetics. As an XLT owner who bought with the intention of transforming my Lightning into more of a 4x4 than I could buy from Ford I acknowledge this movement in that...

I am SOOOO wanting (and waiting) for this to pan out!....

Shoot, I made a mistake going by memory (it happens more and more these days), my LT295/65R20s are 35.1x11.6 (12.5 as I stated above). I'll see if I can edit it now, but just wanted to make sure the incorrect information doesn't go to far.

I know a lot of folks who are putting bigger tires on are having issues with them rubbing the crash bars. I definitely did not want to cut/remove mine, so went with 295/65s on my OEM 20s knowing it would be tight (I also have a 1" wheel spacer). Others here had said that by switching the crash...

I have not decided on UCA brand yet. +34 will push the inside plane of the tire out 0.393 inches (great for tire rub issues). To look at it another way, with the same size tires you will have 0.393 inches more "poke" giving it about 3/4 of an inch wider stance. I've gone back and reviewed...