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I hear ya. I can run my Travel Trailer AC off the 15A circuit in my garage, which was the whole reason I clicked the box, thought it would be nice to be able to run the AC off the truck at times, but nope, Ford's idea of 20A is barely a toaster...so disappointing. And I didn't even consider the...

Have you tried: 1. running it wired (same or different result) 2. tried a different phone (same or different result) Those two tests may give you some idea of where the issue is coming from...

I didn't have any issues with my install...Are you all trying to install the 2 x 15mm bolts into the support bracket? only 1 goes through that support bracket, the 2nd bolt is just next to it.. I can get a photo this afternoon...

The most versatile solution is an adjustable shower rod. They expand and have fine screw adjustments to make them tight, buy two ($12-$20 each) and then you can create cradles to retain any variety of sizes of cargo. Or if you don't like the shower curtain rod idea, they do make 'small' cargo...

Correct. The only difference between the two numbers is the style of hitch you use. Standard hitch = 5000 lb max Weight Distribution Hitch = 13,800 for my truck. Comes down to how the weight is distributed between the truck and trailer, for stability at highway speeds.

Yeah, that's where you can get into trouble if you're not careful. Those ratings are for the receiver hitch itself, not the vehicle it is bolted too. I'm sure Ford specs them out to be just over the max rating on the truck so that the hitch isn't the 'weak point'. It all comes down to liability...

Ha, so if wanted to max this thing out, I'd need to lose some weight....I don't think I've weighed anywhere near 150lbs since middle school. The 5,000lb limit is the spec on the receiver hitch, anything over 5,000 needs a WDB hitch. The hitch on my Lariat with max tow is rated: 5,000 lbs max...

Yeah, pretty much. I'm sure Ford Engineering + Ford Legal has some precise calculations they use to determine all those numbers. I'm not sure how they get to the GCWR though.... My truck is GVWR = 7,150 lbs Max Tow Rating = 13,800 lbs Max GCVWR = 19,400 lbs (which Truck GVWR + Tow Rating =...

Only place I've seen the GCWR is in the Ford Tech specs brochure. Just have to look up your combination in the charts. Starts on page 9.

All the info you need is in the drivers door sill. Find the Blue/White label in the upper right side is your GVWR (7150 LB), then find your Tire and Loading Sticker Yellow/white, and take the 'combined weight of occupants and cargo number (1696 lbs). Subtract one from the other, and bam, there...

The blocks simply lift the rear of the truck, for 2 reasons. One; so that when it is loaded up it will sit about level, and two the front down, rear up rake/angle helps to improve airflow around truck for highway fuel efficiency. If you remove the blocks, you could lose up to 0.5 MPG...maybe...

So you're saying there is a chance.... Ordered my Lariat in March, delivered in June. Still no OTA updates for me yet. But everything has been working well on mine, so I'm a little nervous to start getting them, for fear of things not working as well.

There was this thread that had an older video of where they are. https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/front-stake-pocket-uncovering-5-5-bed.1657/ Other wise its just pushing down on the plastic until you find the soft spot, then drill a hole and start trimming outward until you've uncovered...

I have the Ford factory installed wheel well liners and have not had any issues with mine this winter. Probably been through 3 or 4 times now, and they are still firmly mounted. Ford does use similar plastic fasteners.

I have a 3.5 EB so not 100% comparable. but the 3.5L normal idle is 7-800 rpm. In generator mode it runs at 1,100 rpm. As it has been said, it is definitely not going to give you 2kW at 120v. I don't even think it could handle a 2kW startup surge. The overload safety is really sensitive, and it...

I have a 502A Lariat, so they are auto adjusted anyway, so for me...No. I wouldn't think that 1" would be enough to change your headlight angle where you would need to readjust it, anyway. But could be something you want to check on.

I have the 157" wheelbase on my truck. And I haven't noticed any change in handling characteristics. I have a sweeping interchange I take everyday at 70 mph, posted 'recommended' speed is 50mph. So over 157" with a 1 inch drop it's only changing the caster angle by ~0.36 degrees. Typical...

Yeah unfortunately the only way you'd be able to pull that off, is with an AC-DC power supply that will output 12v at 200amps, and that's going to run over $400, and I don't think you can get one that is weather tight, so it would have to be in an enclosure, plus they are not small, so you won't...

I have a Craftsman set 1/2inch drive set that I used, had them for a long time, so I don't know if they are are extra deep, or something not 'normal'. I will say I first tried my impact sockets, but that socket was not deep enough. Another option would be a crows foot. Sorry about your head...