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When I start my truck, my HVAC controls are always in the state that they were when I shut it off.

No

I think that applies to all Ford EVs, and I read somewhere (maybe on the Mach-E forum) that the 40% threshold has been increased.

I’ll check next chance I get. I did get the new style icons at the top.

A properly functioning truck should never completely drain the 12V battery unless you have something extra drawing power from it.

This thread was started in an attempt to attract 39 people to join him in forming a class in order to initiate a lawsuit. AFAIK, it has never been confirmed that he got it off the ground.

Same here. I now have the latest BC, walkaway locks, and who knows what else?

That’s not true of (most) currently produced plug-in hybrids. When we use our XC90 PHEV around town, the engine never runs.

Unhook all that stuff and see if the symptoms change/improve.

I don’t like the looks of a cap, so I’ll just do this to increase my range:

Not just SunRun…. https://www.investors.com/news/solar-stocks-dive-senate-bill-cuts-solar-wind-energy-incentives/

Many don’t realize that all AI is not created equal. There are pay-to-use models that are reported to be excellent. The “free” ones…..you get what you pay for! Sorry for going on a tangent.

I got it using my FCSP.

We are just past the 3 year anniversary of the first 22s being delivered. IMO, if your truck is 3 years old, you should strongly consider replacing the 12V battery unless you are willing to risk sudden failure occurring without prior warning symptoms. This lesson was learned the hard way my...

Leaving it plugged in has no effect once the target charge level is reached. After a few (several?) days, the vehicle will go into deep sleep and you won’t be able to access it from FordPass. Ford’s long-term storage instructions make no mention of whether or not it is stored in a location...

Your 12V battery failed. It should be replaced by the dealer under warranty. You have a 24, are you still under 36K miles? Once you are out of warranty, it’s not a big job to replace it yourself. The most tedious part is the BMS reset procedure. It’s been posted on here previously.

I think what actually happens is when the heating element fails, the resistance wire shorts to the sheath which is grounded. So even with the heater off, the neutral side is still connected to its side of the element, resulting in a N-G short. I’ve seen similar problems when a hot tub that’s...

You still have to go from 4 to 3 wire. The 2 lines and neutral should be the only connections.

There is no reason to use accessory mode. At least I haven’t found one. Most EVs have no such thing.

You need to take an ohm meter and figure out what that cord is doing to get from 4-wire to 3-wire. Chances are, both the N & G prongs go to the N on the 3-wire end. If so, that’s the problem.