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Any chance there's a version for the powerboost yet? If not any idea why they don't fit the powerboost models, battery location is in the way?

Nice! Any pics? Assuming it doesn't fit behind the seat?

In this case they are all have that option to operate that way. But some reviews say the they turn on inadvertently with slight offset changes from the input. Not sure if it's their setup or rogue rogue signals getting through.

But now that I've looked closer it's in the BCM fuse block and is always hot... so no real advantage I guess.

Should be 2 green with red striped wires for power.

The LC2i only draws 150mA and calls for a 1 amp fuse. I'm planning to tap off the power from the oem dsp/amp unit. That way I'm not relying on the sensing remote on, I've heard any DC offset on the inputs can make them turn on inadvertently.

Ok I have the B&O non unleashed. Any major differences between the KEYLOC and LC2i? Leaning towards the LC2i unless less keeping everything kicker has an advantage.

Has anyone tried the kicker hideaway with AND without a LOC? Curious if there's a noticeable difference? A LOC isn't needed for the low level inputs but sounds like it will help keep the dsp signal linear throughout the volume range.

Ok good to know. Heard clipping could be an issue, was hoping the dsp used feedback from the speakers where disconnecting the factory sub would remove that concern.

Would tapping into the rear door speakers be a better approach than the factory sub?

So do we need to worry about reverting to factory settings when going for a service at the dealer like with the last gen? Or is there a handful of modules that need to reverted that don't update like bcm? Going in for another APIM swap this week or next.

Sweet, so looks like it will stay at that angle when mounting it? May just have to bend the brackets. Started looking into power options, there's a fuse bank in the passenger footwell. Looks like it has spare/unused fuses ranging up to 30A. Bought a fuse tap pigtail and was going to try that...

Same here. And with my old APIM I couldn't even enable the auto updates or schedule updates. Was just grayed out.

Ok that makes sense. I saved all my modules when I first started making changes so I could revert back when bringing it in for major services. But sounds like that could cause problems as updates come out and the old original saved modules become outdated. I was more concerned to see a meaage...

So does that mean the "Factory AB" isn't really factory but a cloud backup of the current settings?

Interested as well. When I pull the BCM AB from the factory AB link on forscan I get a message saying the register / block count don't match up... not sure if this is due to my bad APIM and not having OTA updates or if there's something else going on.

thanks for the link. I'll probably go this route to have the ability to revert back to stock.

Using that factory pigtail is the way to go for a cleaner install as well as returning to stock if selling the truck. Look forward to seeing how the install turns out.

Yes the HS10 takes high and low level input but I don't believe it comes with RCA connectors, you would need to purchase an adapter. Eh, a cover for something that is hidden behind the seat doesn't need to look good

Damn $40 for a piece of plastic, that's steep! Does that require an RCA conversion for the Kicker HS10 as well?