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This is what the 3rd party widget looked like which was based on early version of the iOS widget which did have interactive buttons on it: "Ford Status Widget" automatically refreshed itself, would show current charging status on AC or DCFC, would show if the car was locked or unlocked...

Yup, I sent a DM to @TaxmanHog when I saw it. I can't seem to delete the double post.

I have Fordpass 5.20.0 from Google Play Store, not a beta tester or anything like that. A couple of days ago I was looking through my Android widgets menu and saw one for Fordpass. Back in my Mach-e days I had a third party widget created by a Mach-e forum member that had lots of information and...

ForScan and FDRS are the only reasons you need to use accessory mode.

I can confirm the mod works on my '24 Pro. I agree with @GDN , I don't think anything with the headlights changed for 2025 so it should still work. Sounds like you get to be the test case for 2025.

Excellent news, thank you!

Would the TRON block any changes that we tried to make with Forscan? We haven't tried make changes yet but he sent me a picture of the Forscan screen and shows the list of modules like normal. We are planning a meetup to tinker with his truck and decide if it's possible to move ahead with the...

I added the ACC/LKA to my 2024 Pro using this thread and this thread. New forum member @25LPro reached out to me about working through the possibility of adding it to his 2025 Pro ER (we're both in the PNW). He downloaded Forscan and got an adapter to verify everything works on that end. We're...

No need to apologize. Thanks for all of the cool mods and hacks you bring to to community!

Do the trip a few times charging to 100% and see what % you return with. If you are worried about charging to 100%, drop to 95%, then 90%. Find out what the "real world" results are for you and charge to the lowest amount that you feel comfortable with to make that trip without stopping to DCFC...

Charge to 100% and drive it. Don't charge to 100% and let it sit around around for days without driving it.

Use both. ABRP to plan. Make sure you enter that you have the SR so it plans correctly. Google to navigate the point to point while driving and give you traffic info. I use ABRP in the truck sometimes to "real time" plan but it's navigation capabilities pale in comparison to Google Maps...

I would almost rather have your "problem", I can barely hear my blinker.

By following this on your car screen:

My breakout board and resistors are working great. Looking forward to the PCB adapter for a cleaner look.

Check the spreadsheet and see what "E" represents. Look at what B and 7 mean on the spreadsheet (the new ACC values) and see what you need to change your E to in order to activate ACC but keep your other options working. Clear as mud? To me it looks like you need to change E to F which makes...

Did you remove the frunk to get to the brake light wire or did you remove the wheel well liner and access it from underneath?

I wired my plug as 4, 3, 2, 1 instead of 1, 2, 3, 4. For me it was easier to cut the wires at the IPMA and re-connect to the pin pigtails in the correct order if that makes sense.

I didn't have power. That's when I figured out the hard way that I reversed the 4 wires in the CCM connection.

Tried it again and performed an APIM reboot in Forscan. Still no enhanced charge settings. Any thoughts? This is more of a curiosity and challenge for me now as it isn't a truly necessary mod.