I think this is truck-dependent. I have to put way more pressure on the wheel than I should have to for it to recognize the hand on the wheel to the point I nearly have to nudge the truck off its straight course. My wife's MME is fingertip, and simply resting a finger on the wheel does the...
The regeneration motors are the same as the traction motors. When decelerating or going down hills, the same motors use the kinetic energy of the truck to pump energy back into the batteries.
This doesn't really work. The truck only charges the 12v when the HVB is actively charging. Just being plugged in when the HVB is already at target SOC doesn't help the 12v. It seems a bit of a flaw in Ford's 12v charging plan, but that is the way it works unless it has been changed very...
Any change in your driving style? ie. shorter drives, quick trips to the corner store, driveway shuffles etc? If not, and most of your drives are 20-30 minutes or longer, it is a pretty strong indicator of a weak 12v battery.
I've owned F150s for decades, and the Lightning shows the same trend as all of my others. Most of them I pushed well into 200,000mi with no serious problems and intend to do this with the Lightning. One or two initial glitches followed by years of reliable service (although there are always...
I feel for you. Hopefully, they'll get it fixed up soon, and that will be the last of it. I'm nearly 3 years in, and I lost a week with an onboard charger failure, but otherwise it has been flawless. Hopefully, this is your event and it's out of the way.
You can remove the current sensor from the battery terminal with the wires attached to the sensor and leave it disconnected for a few minutes. That will reset your 12v.
If you have done this and still don't have your drive modes, it may be that one of the other modules did not update properly...
Hopefully, they are investigating and find no physical problems. I wonder if the one-pedal drive error triggered an investigation since that changes the way the truck brakes.
In any case, keep us in the loop.
Try restarting your phone. Sometimes the iOS updates don't fully complete until you do a final restart. I've found this particularly true with PAAK, probably because of the security nature of the digital keys.
My app is on all the time. The phone needs to be within a few feet of the sensor...
We can agree to disagree. iPhones are not the same as a truck, nor should they be compared.
Apple has been upgrading iPhones for 18 years. iPhone is a consumer device. If it fails, it doesn't kill people (usually). Apple can fix a glitch in a day. iPhone is not driving a 7000lb truck down...
It's not really comparable. The iPhone is a single device. Our trucks are a collection of modules, each with its own purpose and integrated together so if one device fails, you don't lose all truck functionality (at least in most cases). This is a far more complicated update than a single...
First, try restarting your sync. Sometimes updates to Sync cause some inconsistencies in the settings compared to the actual settings in the modules. Restarting Sync pulls the correct parameters from the modules. With the truck ON, press and hold both the volume down and the skip right for...
Just a theory, but it could be the truck may have seen only 120V and dropped to L1. Most EVSEs will not function if one side of the breaker kicks out, and I've seen this happen on a couple of occasions even when the breaker switches are bridged together and it is hard to tell one side has...
There has definitely been a change in traction control. I don't think this makes the truck slower. It just manages traction a bit better. Some of us had a pulsing in the power train when accelerating moderately following a traction control event and then accelerating to around 40-50 (around a...
I wanted to give an update on this. I've had this issue since the truck was new, across 3 sets of tires (old winters, factory grabbers and new winters). I could consistently recreate the studder by moderately accelerating around a corner up to 40-50mph. I could also recreate the stutter by...
Yes, BMS drift on DCFC (on any charger, really) if you only take the SOC to 80% for too many cycles on both LFP and NMC battery chemistries. It's easy to manage. Just charge to 100% periodically with a decent L2 EVSE and the BMS resets itself. Make sure you let it get to 100% before...