Those diagrams seem odd to me as most utilities will NOT bring you an EGC, from the utility you get your phases and neutral. You're required to ground and then bond at your service equipment. To me, the ground and neutral bond should be shown at the transfer switch in those diagrams.
Sure, if we want to get into what ifs then what if your breaker fails to trip: your wires will melt and burn your house down.
The NEC even allows you to replace ungrounded outlets in old homes with 3-prong GFI outlets because it’s safe.
I was just answering that there was a way, it just requires a decent chunk of change.
I feel like not bringing the equipment ground is safe enough that I’m using it. It does not meet code so I will not advise someone else to do so.
also: Go Pack!
Electricity flows in the path of least resistance. Just because you don’t bring the vehicle ground to the house does not mean it isn’t grounded: you’ve still got you’re house ground and it’s bonded at the panel which is still your service entrance. A fault on the truck side would trip the gfi. A...
For what it’s worth, I don’t think it’s unsafe to not bring over your equipment ground from the truck. You service doesn’t bring you a ground either, you make the ground at the house and then bond the neutral. Treat your car as the utility and it’s the same thing, and its built in ground loop...
Im not sure I’m following your whole setup, but you do not want to switch the house neutral AND remove the ground from the truck. You want one neutral-ground bond in your system and you want it to be at the service point ie the truck when in backup mode.
14-50 and 14-50P are not different, P indicates a plug and R indicates a receptacle. If his plug did not have a neutral he likely has a 6-50R and you'd need a 6-50P adapter to use it, but you do not need the neutral to charge.
I don’t disagree with you, but we don’t see 45 and under super often so I took the risky choice. Glad I don’t have to worry about that anymore though.
Before I got my first EV I only drove manual vehicles and if it snowed I slowed down with engine braking to help prevent sliding. I think that’s...
I feel like none of that is true. I had a model 3 and when I got it there wasn’t even an option for 1-pedal drive…yes you can turn it off. Second, 1-pedal is better for snow. We don’t get much in the south, but I drove mine with summer tires on snow and was fine.
I disagree that it won't make a difference in brake wear. Even if you are gently applying your breaks they will degrade more than literally not using them. I believe they'll last significantly longer with 1 pedal.
It sucks that you’re experiencing that. I picked mine up off the lot mid November and with no conversations with Sunrun it appeared before Christmas. I would imagine you have to deal with Sunrun at this point since it’s on them to ship it.
I see this take all the time. Sport mode and 1-pedal are not mutually exclusive: you can use 1, both, or neither. I’m not sure why everyone compares using Sport mode or 1-pedal.
I haven’t taken mine in snow yet, but I imagine 1-pedal with normal mode would be best since it gives you a more...
It was definitely happening because I got mine at that price. 79,290 - 6500 dealer incentive - 7500 Ford incentive = 65,290. Plus they’re still eligible for the 7,500 tax rebate.
I’ve used my BC for a few hundred miles and it has only nagged me when I was actively not looking at the road. It doesn’t even nag when I look around for a few seconds.