Wow, only 26" tall and 14kW continuous with a Honda engine and assembled in the US. This is awesome, thanks for sharing. 82db though, ouch. If it's going on a trailer, it'll be fine but in the back of the bed it'll kill the awesomeness of the Lightning.
Thanks, I'm not criticizing you, I just want to fully understand the #'s and make sure everyone who's interested has the most accurate info. Even I have been wrong thinking about this a few times.
Correct the only reason unity is different is because the SR can charge at 11kW and the ER can charge at 19kW, You're correct it has nothing to do with battery size, but range does. And of course there are different efficiencies given different speeds for different conditions. All Lightning...
OK, fair enough, but something is still wrong with your #'s, I'd like to see graphs that somehow relate speed in a human-understandable form, maybe just list them in parenthesis next to the X axis labels. We know speed and efficiency are linked, and we know what they are under normal...
Something is still not right, Knowing your range requires solving for two variables.
For my truck using 70mph and 2.0mi/kWh with a usable battery capacity of 94kWh it solves out to be:
https://www.wolframalpha.com/input?i=G+%3D+2.0+*+%28t+*+11+%2B+94%29%2C+G+%3D+t+*+70
t = 3.9hr
R = 274mi
Why are you using only 80% of the battery's capacity for your range calcs? I know if I'm taking a road trip and I've loaded a generator, I flip open my app and charge that bitch to 100%. This assumes that I'm not traveling over my total range and hitting fast chargers, I guess if you were...
THD of pretty much any amount that you can encounter with the shittiest generator you can find is not a problem for the on board charger (or any EVSE I've tested with). The first stage of power electronics in an EV's on board charger is a full wave bridge rectifier and a massive bank of...
My truck is already 2" leveled in the front, I couldn't stand the factory rake. The DuroMax I've been testing with is only 450lbs with fuel, the truck doesn't even know it's back there.
Yea, if I was richer than a middle class electrical engineer I'd go out and buy this right now for CWD testing.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Ford-Tri-fuel-Portable-Generator/5016769813
Any generator over 20kW is going to be big enough to have good mechanical inertia, physical winding accuracy, and...
Everything being said here is confusing at best. The reality is that small/cheap/basic generators have been around for a long time and have varying quality of windings, physical build quality, varying exciter quality, and varying governor controls, there is no standard, just like there is no...
ALL instances of charge failures, that set DTC's in the SOBDMA I've seen have been caused by EVSE and ground/neutral problems. DTC's can be cleared immediately with a scan tool, or will clear on their own generally after a few power cycles and a few tries with a proper EVSE setup.
It...
Awesome, thanks for your input, you are correct, the smaller the non-inverter generator the harder it is for multiple reason for it to maintain output voltage stability over large ranges of loads. This is 50% or more due to the shitty exciters they put in them which are all generic Chinese...
Shit man, if you've already been there and figured out how C265 works, just pull out the correct wires and do it like everyone else has proven it works. You can do it. Don't cut any wires and you'll have a mod that doesn't alter anything factory.
Yep, you got it, but, are you planning to just snip those wires and use WAGO splice blocks? If so, I can't understand why you wouldn't go doit at C265 and leave this wiring in tact, unless you are planning something else like CommaAI, or crimping the factory female terminals on your new...
Yep, AI is 100% wrong here, but in fairness it's wrong because human's have taught it to be wrong. There is no cleaner sine wave than from a rotating electro-mechanical machine. Harmonics are the result of trying to digitally create a sine wave. Inverter generators are a total waste of money...
Geeze man, sorry you did that to yourself. $50k+ value vehicle modification 101, backtrack your work and check ALL connections :)
Yes per the wiring diagram you can cut and splice there, That is connector
C242B and the 4 wires are on 9,18,19,20.
But since we don't want to let the passenger...
As far as the various module configuration tweaks. It's probably all still good as I posted. I haven't changed any of that on my truck and it's all still working.
Yep, so straight from the IMPA to the CCM and stick a Deutsch connector somewhere behind the bumper if that's in your skillset so the bumper can be removed easily.