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The 1A version I had could not do it. I switched to the 5A version and it gets to green.

Ok, so looks like it was a pin alignment issue. After L2 charging for several hours he went back to try the CCS again and this time pushed in harder and moved the charge cable around while doing so and the pin latched and it started charging.

My brother just bought a 22 Platinum that was a buyback where a module was replaced. He’s on the 300mi trip home from the dealer with 100+ miles to go. It was at 100% when he picked it up and did not check the DCFC. The dealer had a DCFC and he assumed that is how they charged it to 100%. His...

I have, but not long enough to fully form an opinion. It was a 15min test drive. Enough to know it handles more like a sport sedan than a truck and the driver visibility would take getting used. It was also before they had FSD working on it. I’ve been looking for one to rent because you really...

Here’s the video when I jumped it. It starts out at 3.8V then I attached another 12V through my jumper leads (jumps to 12V) then I got in and turned the truck on (jumps to 13.4V). I ended up taking the battery out and charging it alone with the 5A Noco as it couldn’t do it attached. It took it...

Yeah, but I’ve had it for almost a year without issue.

The 12V battery quiescent avg. is 65ma. from carscanner. The Noco brought it back (outside the truck) and it is holding 12V. I’ve seen on X where there have been several software updates in the last week. I have an aftermarket amp, it will turn off about two minutes after the truck is locked...

It’s on 12V AGM. I watch it charge with the Ancel app.

Why isn’t the truck triggering LVB charging though? Is there a monitor module that could have gone bad? If there is a drain beyond what the Noco can do should’t the Truck charger eventually kick in? Adding the Ancel BT monitor is the only thing I have changed since the original battery change...

After my original 12V died about a month ago I replaced it with a new OEM Ford 12V and added a cable for a 12V maintainer. I mostly drive the truck on weekends only, so it does not get a lot of daily use. With the recent cold weather I noticed that the 1a Noco was not staying green so I switched...

Wow. And that’s after you got the 12v back up?

Great work and thank you for the write up! Does the physical key still spin with the 12v charged? Did you happen to check the resting voltage of the battery after jumping it?

Can you post a video of the physical lock spinning? I was similarly locked out but I do not remember the lock spinning. It just would not move the lock. The battery may not be “dead” just not enough voltage to run everything. The lock behavior may change as the voltage further drops.

It knows I added external leads. The knowledge is that it’s possible to have a dead battery that can lock you out but that the lock out is unstable. It’s not acting like 12V or 0V and that if you keep trying when you are locked out it can suddenly unlock because of a voltage chage (high or...

Do you think it’s wrong or do I need to find a 5V battery to recreate the conditions where you could be completely locked out of the vehicle with a mostly dead battery? I tested at 0V to verify someone else's statement and prove myself wrong but AI said there is a middle case that I was in where...

Ok, so I asked Chat some follow ups. 5V, where my battery was does not behave the same as 0V or 12V. Even if the door lock feels the same at 12v vs 0v? 5v could behave completely different? Yes — absolutely. A door lock can feel identical at 12 V and 0 V, yet behave completely differently at...

I tested it again with the battery disconnected and the door lock worked with the key, unlock and lock multiple times. I’m not sure what changed. I should have tested that earlier but I was certain about it’s behavior that day and not seeing the lock budge.

I take it back. I went out and disconnected the battery and used the key and it locked and unlocked the door. The pressure was the same with and without 12V. I would swear that was not the behavior when my battery died. The key would not move the lock pull, but here it is doing it with the...

Yep. Not sure what actually opened the door. We had the keys, the FOB, the App. It did unlock after about 1/2-1hr but we don’t know what did it. It did make some mechanical noises, but when I got in the frunk the battery was at 5V, so really, really low.

Here is my version. When you drill the hole there is a hump on either side that I luckily missed. From inside the fender you think you are feeling the plastic from behind but there is actually a metal plate there. The wire does not go straight up it turns immediately to the left then goes up...