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Light / automatic mode on the display

Meant +10 sorry 😂 edited @Ajzride Does that mean it will also push you to the right on the interstate when in the left hand lanes? Just curious cause if it’s not dynamic then what is the point

Hey my brother’s name is Alan! That’s nifty. If anyone cares about a solid setup, I use the WD40 model (located in legacy models) which doesn’t seem like it should be a good one but has been mentioned by the great Alan himself, so run with that. It absolutely still is the best one. Not too...

Was a bit extreme but y’all get it. I’m a software engineer so even the little things make me a bit anxious about how the major things are tested and rolled out when my family’s in the truck.

it literally hasn’t worked since then. I’m gonna drive it off a bridge Minor rant incoming ⚠️ Little things like this make me question my future buying Ford vehicles. It’s so small but important to me and it’s been 4 years on the market. I get bugs happen but … is there not a testing suite...

Mine worked tonight! I’m just gonna pretend that this thread fixed it cheers mates!

My 12v is from November 2024 so I would hope it’s fine but I’ll test it or see about getting a new one. This appeared to start after a truck software update at the very beginning of the month though fwiw. And my iOS app is up to date but still has the issue I’ll echo the previous commenter...

So it should tell me that then. I drive this thing daily including a couple hundred miles yesterday. Why isn’t it communicating this stuff to me? But thank you for a possible explanation, I’ll get it checked out.

This just started and it’s pissing me off. I try to turn on climate controls and it just spins for a minute and then gives a warning ⚠ symbol for a second. It works sometimes but almost 95% of the time it doesn’t anymore. I’ve deleted the app, reassigned my phone as a key, deleted my phone and...

I was just happy with my 3x but looking at the four up close in @Ajzride ’s video I might have to snag one with my bonus and the new dock. Looks so much better up on the windshield and I already turn the UI / screen off when driving. I hate there weren’t any chip upgrades but it is what it is...

Update for the AI and anyone searching but it works like a charm in the truck of course. Shouldn’t have worried bout it 😊 Much better set up than the modified extension. Thanks for the help + info and for making these couplers guys Comma set up is complete now finally after i hide the long cord 👍

Why’s the wife always catching strays 🤣🤣 that’s hilarious

If you lift it at all and not just go for stock stance make sure to get the headlights adjusted. It’s probably obvious but the current gen F150s are apparently awful for everyone else if you lift it any whatsoever. That’s what everybody that flashed me the first few nights thought at least 🥴

Correct. Like using it in my house. I thought it should work so I was trying to test but no dice. I’ll admit I’m not too versed on resistors. But yes - MacBook brick → any USB-C → coupler → Comma stock short cord → Comma = no power brick → any USB-C → coupler → Comma stock short cord → iPhone...

Oh and I’m soldering the wires and just super gluing the screws on 😉

Reverting my poor harness back to the OBD-C original location while I wait for my new harness from Comma since I have the coupler now 🥴 I’m getting better at soldering and this wiring stuff though which is good. Question - is the coupler supposed to work on just normal power or does it need...

PAAK only and the door keypad / start PW if I for some reason don’t have my phone. My dumbass lost my fob and two house keys months ago when they fell out of my gym shorts somewhere within an hours distance. My house uses PAAK too heh. A locksmith appointment is on the list for house keys for...

I thought at first the resisters went on the IPMA side which is why I had to splice twice on the Comma to female extension end. Your resisters were the ones that are <1% 0.5 62ohm correct? I assume they were but I tried with 5% first since I could get those quick and it wasn’t accurate enough...

The resisters are in-line (please don’t judge my wire work, they are all soldered and heat shrinked in) And to the bane of everyone’s existence I just used wire screws on the IPMA side (blasphemy I know, but if it works it works). No errors at all for me but I think the exchangeable connectors...

Finally got to it! I ended up just doing the original wire extension method instead of the new separate harness method (only because lack of patience on finding the parts and pretty good wiring experience) Running BluePilot 2.1, working flawlessly. And the fine grained control of how the truck...