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I don’t disagree with having a beefy cord, but heating is based on current, not power (Joule’s Law). 11 A at 120 V produces the same heat as 11A at 240 V. This is precisely the reason why we want higher voltage circuits…higher power without the extra current (more heat). For a given wire of course.

What about a conversion kit? You will get less power. Not sure of your specific needs.

How did this turn out?

After 2+ hours on, we seem to come out of battery saver. I don’t see much difference from when I turned it on, but that seems to have fixed it at least for now. Just to be clear, the 12.2 V in my previous post was before turning on. The LVB battery voltage jumped to about 13.35 immediately after...

After sitting in my garage unplugged for 10+ hours while I was at work. It’s sitting on with shutdown timer disabled now.

I only had a short time to mess with it before work, but I can confirm from car scanner that plugging in L2 causes the battery voltage to jump up. I think it was sitting at 14.5 V. I will dig in further to a SOC value for LVB and see if that is perhaps what is triggering battery saver.

Yeah, that’s what I’m seeing here, but the truck seems to be stuck in battery saver even when it is on (not accessory mode), or have it on a slow L2 charge. Nothing plugged into truck. You would expect it to jump out of battery saver when the LVB gets above a certain voltage, right?

Any update? I’m dealing with the “battery saver mode” in FordPass now.

Big improvement. Thanks!

Love the look of your truck. Can you comment on any highway range improvement from lowering?