Audio Guys: I need your help

[GDN]

This is all great information. This is where I am at. I think I would do it in phases and hopefully I don’t need to get to phase four. I’ll put this down here to get insight from those that have already done this and to give future upgraders another starting point.


Phase 1
Goal: To add Sub frequencies missing in the factory sound

Thoughts:
Need to have a Line Out Converter to be able to take an amplified sound from the factory amp and get a line out subwoofer signal. One problem is the bass roll off at higher volumes, but the real problem is that the 6x9 sub doesn’t have the power or area to hit those low frequencies 20Hz to 30Hz. Bass roll off doesn’t mean you stop hearing it, it means that it stops increasing in volume at the same rate as the midbass, midrange and tweeters. Still increases, but the true bottleneck is the limitations of the 6x9 sub.

Options:
Audio Control LC2i Pro - has AccuBASS setting that can combat the bass roll-off allowing you to not worry about special splicing of harnesses, and just connect to the subwoofer line.
(Other Options: Kicker KeyLOC, JL Audio LOC-22)

JL Audio JD500/1 or RD500/1 - Mono amp to power sub 500 RMS @ 2 ohms (gain-match sub output to the factory signal)

JL Audio JL 10Tw3-D4 - Sub will be ran at 2 ohms up to 400 RMS

Audio Intensity 2024-2025 Ford F-150 Direct Fit Behind-Seat Subwoofer Enclosure - I don’t want to lose the under seat space, this fits behind the seats and doesn’t take up the space where the factory amp is.

Phase 2: (if still not satisfied)
Goal: To improve Midbass clarity and punch by reducing resonance

Thoughts: I’ll need to seal the doors with door block off plates, add butyl-based deadeners to reduce vibrations, add closed cell foam over deader to decouple door panel and prevent rattles, seal speakers to mounts with foam gasket, seal the rear of the speaker basket from the front wave, add foam rings to direct sound into cabin. Maybe test disconnecting center channel.


Phase 3: (if still not satisfied)
Goal: fix current speakers sound stage with A2B unit, DSP and new amp. Self tune

Thoughts: I’ll need an A2B unit to integrate to factory unit as well as a DSP amp. a correctly tuned DSP can make your speakers sound their best.

Options:
Maestro A2B
Arc Blackbird 8ch amp

Other Options:
PAC Amp Pro4 AP4-FD31
Mobridge A2B Ford
Zen F25

Phase 4: (if still not satisfied)
Goal: bite the bullet and upgrade speakers and professonal tune

Options:
Focal Flax Evo 3 way - Front Sound Stage (actively crossed in DSP)
Focal Flax Evo Coaxial - Rear (attenuating rear coaxials in tuning so they don’t pull the sound stage backward)

Other Options:
Focal K2

You won't make it without going all the way to Phase 4 and in fact, that has to be part of phase 2. It doesn't make sense to spend the time and labor to open the doors and install block off and other materials in the doors without replacing the speakers while in there. There are many threads with upgrades of low to moderate priced speakers and very nice improvements. The factory speakers are junk - lightweight and paper.

If you do a speaker upgrade you may not need some of the other phases, based on what you want out of the system.

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