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What's the cost for 300 units? Can count me in for an order if it is actually viable/cost effective compared to 3D printing.

How difficult was this? Did you run into issues with fit? I've been interested in potentially trying to do ventilated seats in addition to switching to heating on my XLT (cloth).

Type Q4 in the search instead of Ford... or if you type in Ford/scroll you need to go to the bottom as it is found under a second section called "Development Harnesses"... the full name is "Ford Q4 Harness".

Still beat me :D Just ordered. Not sure I'm going to be using it anyway, I still have another 1.5 years of free EA so I will continue to try and use them for any trips.

120kw for standard? Did they change something between 2022 and 2023? My SR 2022 will hit max ~170kw for a bit.

Just to be clear, 1C for SR would be ~107kw and ER ~143kw? Our batteries actually cycle through those rates quite a bit during day to day driving... granted most of it is pretty short lived, but maintaining speed (particularly at highway speeds) can still be 50-100kw (off the top of my head)...

OBDII adapter and a scanner app like Car Scanner (maybe Torque too? I haven't tried that on my EV).

I think most importantly you guys should be sharing your battery condition! Mine is at 98.5% with 17k miles.

OBDII sensor gives you a battery health percentage. Mine is at 98.5% after 17k miles. Spill the beans! Unless you are under an NDA, I'll respect that :D

Ouch, seriously? That's basically what Kia/Hyundai has been quoting for out of warranty battery replacements as well. Too bad legislation didn't force battery replacement costs to *actual* costs + labor.

I meant to ask this when you posted before, what is the definition of city driving here? My summer commute (with a mix of 35mph to 60mph) efficiency is usually in the 2.8 mi/kwh range.

What are the battery temps? You aren't going to get the same amount of kWh out of the pack of the temps are low.

I assumed the SOC sensor is trying to give you a better idea of the total charge, usable + reserve (so for SR 98 kWh vs 107.6 kWh... for ER 131 kWh vs 143.3 kWh), whereas the "SOC Display" is trying to just show you the usable battery charge.

I leave mine plugged in. I think the energy draw is really minimal.

Gotcha. Well most likely the answer is, assuming you were correct and you didn't just miss it happening last year, is that Ford may have changed the logic of the displayed SOC through an update sometime in the past year.

A year ago we didn't have the actual battery percentage on the display, so unless you were using an OBDII dongle you maybe weren't noticing... at least that was the case with me. I don't remember when the truck was updated to display the numbers for state of charge.

I use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076XVQMVS/ Of note, I bought one last year and didn't use it all that much and then tried to use it a few months ago and it didn't seem to work, but I sort of wonder if I messed up the bluetooth settings (I don't think you are supposed to add this...

Need to get you guys some OBDII dongles and carscanner/phone app to grab the sensor/temp data. I've been trying to collect cold temp data but our temps really haven't dipped that significantly so far this year.

yes, and just adding on that it is because regenerative braking is not 100% efficient, there are heat and other losses (I think DC to AC conversion?) that mean that the less you use both friction and regenerative braking, the more efficient you will be. But also, the more people behind you...

Agreed with the first sentence. Whichever setting makes you use the friction brakes less is your most efficient mode.