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SOC is the actual battery SOC including the buffers at the top and bottom end. SOC display is the % of the usable range. So the displayed SOC will be lower than the actual SOC when at full charge, will be the same somewhere in the middle, and will be lower at a low state of charge. All numbers...

Haha. I think that's a creative interpretation. In a few months they will be offering an adapter to use the Lyriq with NACS.

And just to add, for the purposes of charging a Lightning, the 50A 240V outlet is over 6 times the power of a 30A 120V outlet, since the Lightning will only charge at 12 amps maximum on 120V regardless of how much the outlet or EVSE could supply.

The main thing with the Lightning is the transfer switch must switch the neutrals. Switching only the hots, as many (most?) transfer switches do, will not play nicely with the Lightning. It will detect the neutral ground bond at the main panel as a ground fault. Reliance probably makes a ton of...

I haven't really been following this thread but I'll chime in anyway. ? You have to be careful with statements like that... even a tiny bit of wind, just a light breeze, makes a huge difference to highway efficiency. So much that it's really hard to make any judgements about efficiency based on...

Yes. They don't call it the Guess-O-Meter for nothing. It looks at your recent driving efficiency and assumes you will be doing more of the same under the same weather conditions. So doing some highly efficient city driving will increase the range estimates, and doing high speed highways will...

Personally I don't care about Ford's future plans. Sure, it would be nice if they were cranking out new and exciting products every year, but bottom line I just need them to stay in business to support the Lightning that is sitting in my driveway now. If they need to scale back EV timelines to...

Seriously, @Ford Motor Company, this has become my #1 complaint about the software. There are several strong contenders but this is #1. LEAVE THE CAMERAS ON while trying to maneuver. Please.

Maybe some software update clobbered your reserve setting and put it at 80% or something. Ford software is like a box of chocolates

I like to DIY stuff but high voltage is where I draw the line. Not going to try and MacGyver a 400 volt cable.

Nitpick: kW is a rate. kWh is a quantity. They are not interchangeable. We recently got time-of-use billing here in BC, Canada, so it costs about $0.10 CAD/kWh overnight. Would be $13 CAD or about $10 USD to "fill" the whole thing. Negligible really

I think maybe that was the question. Is it possible for a third party to do a better job, or is that interface all locked up with cryptography or something.

Does it work with some other load (like your drill) also attached?

Congrats on the truck :) Personally I didn't worry too much about knowing everything about it. Just drove it and learned as I went. It is kind of annoying the owner's manual has a bunch of "if equipped" irrelevant stuff and is not customized to what you actually have installed. If they're...

How to tell you're on a primarily American forum lol

Every time I come to this thread hoping to see an on topic post. Every time I'm disappointed ☹️ Come on Ford. Let's get these things moving

There is a benefit; that's a fact. You can use smaller gauge wires to save copper. I agree with your conclusion that the tradeoffs (need custom manufactured 48V components, or DC-DC converters everywhere) probably aren't worth it, but saying there are no benefits is just wrong.

I've found the charge limits to be hit or miss, mostly miss. Just yesterday I set my charge limit to 90% in the truck before turning it off, saved it twice (because the first time it doesn't stick), and plugged in at home as usual. This morning it's charged to my normal home limit of 80%...

Because it is not easier, smoother or more comfortable if the person to whom you are showing it is not accustomed to it. If I were a sales person I would certainly start with two pedal mode if the customer wasn't experienced with 1PD. Last thing I would want is for them to feel like they had to...

The jack point for the rear, especially, is quite far forward. So you are lifting a LOT of weight. I did try out the factory jack when swapping my winter wheels and it did work, but yeah I should be shopping for a hydraulic bottle jack I think.