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I still own a Tesla and I don't agree with that. I've watched Tesla play chicken with the regulators and avoid all kinds of recalls for months before (sometimes) giving in. And I've suffered Tesla's hyperactive software idiocy for years in ways that have sometimes been flat out dangerous -...

The screenshot is the official recall notice, with NHTSA case number, from Ford's own website. The notice is dated 6/24 and says "within 30 days". I don't see much wiggle room there: it is July 30 as I write this. These notices are negotiated between NHTSA and the manufacturer. It's not like...

It appears @FordMotorCompany has quietly missed their self-imposed deadline for a software update to fix the TPMS recall by several days. I'm surprised their legal/regulatory folks haven't forced them to withdraw/correct the recall announcement, which still says, in the latest copy linked to...

Speaking of which... Ford said 30 days for the software update to fix the TPMS recall. Their 30 days run out tomorrow and no updates are available for my truck, at least. This doesn't bode well.

There is the very similar Delta BiDi unit I accidentally found which is not Ford branded and comes with its own CCS cable directly connected to the inverter housing (I posted the datasheet a couple of months ago when I had it confused with the model Ford is using) I haven't yet figured out If...

I actually do not want frequent software updates for the vehicle. I loathe the way Tesla constantly changes things, adding eye candy and chrome teasing for their joke of a "full self driving" suite while basic vehicle functionality often regresses with these updates. I hope Ford never starts...

I owned a 2015 Model S and still own a 2020 Model Y, both bought new. I have a close friend who traded up from a CMax to a Model 3, and my sister overseas has used a Kia Soul EV as her daily driver for several years. I have had almost every configuration of Tesla vehicle except the Roadster...

$120/year more than my 2020 STX, on Progressive.

I am going to add a split-coil Zwave power meter to my home charger to at least address this problem there. But the charge screens in the app can't do it nor can the in-car display, as far as I can tell.

My truck had the same problem. It _appears_ to have gone away since I have abandoned all charging-related functionality in the app and use only the settings on the main display, while the truck is fully powered on (a.k.a. "started" or "running"). I realized about a week ago that after you end...

The app has some awesome bugs in this area, too -- like confusing AM and PM in the estimated completion time if the current charge session is expected to span midnight. And the car "going to sleep" (at least, so the app says) while actively charging, so the app stops updating. The app is...

It's western red cedar - about 40 years old and not very well maintained. It looks reddish brown in bright sunlight and purplish black in the shade. Bit of a green tinge from the "aged" polyurethane when the light hits it just wrong. Comes from the mill smooth on one side and rough on the...

That's 1" LFMC and an 8" box, for the record. There is no 3/4" conduit involved. The photo was shot from a bit of an odd angle as I was straddling the pile of firewood I had obviously only mostly moved out of the way of the work (when my kid got home, we moved the rest of it and built a proper...

In this case, the configuration pictured is specifically laid out in the manual for the (Listed) equipment. If one of these cables were Al, it would be larger, thus stiffer. Sure, at the same size it's a bit more flexible.

You end up with something like this, though, note, this is all #3 copper in this box - the Al will be bigger, stiffer, generally less pleasant to deal with. Once you put 3 big Polaris connectors in there there will not be a ton of space left (sorry, I didn't take another shot before buttoning...

Likely conduit vs. NM cable. Even if both runs are quoted piped, pulling #3 is considerably more work than pulling #6 - it is a lot stiffer and less friendly to work with. There will be a bit more labor in there.

That is the same thing you said to me by email. But you referred to a "100A" DIP switch setting, and I sent you back the manual page that lists no such setting - the HPWC 100A setting is for a 100A circuit, 80A charge rate, and the Lightning will accept an 80A charge. I have not yet had time...

That's the waste heat from the inductive coupling - it's unavoidable with wireless power transmission. This is why "wireless charging" for big loads like EVs is pure snake oil. 25% or so of the juice just heats the charger and the load... Spinning the phone's CPU and wifi modules around like...

It's not the charging - it's Android Auto which is a tremendous battery hog and much worse when sending screen updates over WiFi (note having AA turned on forces your phone onto a private wifi network with the car, which is pretty crappy if for example you were wanting to use it to provide a...

Interesting. My TeslaTap is an 80A Mini, and I see exactly the same symptom on the Gen1 charger that you described. I also have an 80A JDapter Stub which I leave on one of my 2 gen2 chargers at home - and it occurs to me that because the JDapter is sitting right there, I may not have tried the...