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asianman35

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I’ll start the review off by saying I paid for these with my own moneys.

So the story starts with us going from Baltimore to OBX and having to have a 4x4 because the house we rented was about 10 miles up the beach, with no paved roads. So I wanted to of course take the lightning, but my wife was against having to stop twice to charge. So we ended up renting a Dodge Ram Longhorn. It was a great truck, had the Hurricane High Output engine, massaging seats, passenger screen, but we were most impressed by the power running boards. I hadn’t really considered them before because of the price of the Amp ones ($1800ish). But after having them for a week on the Ram, I was considering it, and my wife even gave the OK.

So I started doing some research and found that the Rough Country and Wolfbox ones were much cheaper. I saw that the Rough Country ones opened and closed with a magnet system and I didn’t want that so I went with the Wolfbox ones. I couldn’t see any real differences between them and the much more expensive AMP ones.

So I received them and did the install this morning. Took me about 3 hours and that included removing the old running boards (had a set of tremor/raptor ones on the truck). I had some experience running a wiring harness along the frame because I have the Putco rear lightbar (I have a Pro with no OEM lightbar). So that part wasn’t scaring me at all, I was just a little hesitant about tapping into the BCM wires so the unit could tell when the doors were open/closed.

So after removing the old running boards, you stick these pieces of clear plastic on the studs, my guess is so that metal doesn't touch metal? Not really sure.

Ford F-150 Lightning Wolfbox Power Running Boards Review PXL_20260723_105300459


Then you attach the motor unit to the front studs on each side and the non-motor units to the rear studs on each side, easy. Comes with all needed hardware. I didnt tighten them down yet until everything was installed and sat right.

Ford F-150 Lightning Wolfbox Power Running Boards Review PXL_20260723_105956166


Next was running the wiring harnesses to each motor through the wheel well. I have a fiberglass wire running kit and that made it super easy to run the harnesses. I hid them behind the plastic wheel well liner so theres no risk of touching the tires. On the driver side, you also run the wires that hook into the BCM. Heres a pic of the mess near the battery once this was done.

Ford F-150 Lightning Wolfbox Power Running Boards Review PXL_20260723_111939616


Ok the motors are plugged in, I had screwed the 2 leads to the battery positive and negative, and ive ran the BCM cable down to the bottom of the cab. Now you need to find the rubber grommet that’ll get you under the drivers footwell, you poke a hole in the grommet and run the wires up, i then ran them straight to the step panel and up behind the weather stripping, up the side of the kick panel to where the BCM is.

Ford F-150 Lightning Wolfbox Power Running Boards Review PXL_20260723_112522543


Now they provide with some plastic pieces that can tap into the BCM wires but I had a hell of a time getting them to close, even with pliers, they just wouldn't stay closed. Luckily, I had some posi taps laying around and used those. Those are so much simpler to use. You find the green/blue and white/green wires or something in the BCM Black cable, there were 2 of each in my truck, so i just chose one and tapped into them with the posi taps. Then inserted the 2 wires from the wolfbox harness into those.

Ford F-150 Lightning Wolfbox Power Running Boards Review PXL_20260723_115009094


OK, now I was ready to test out the motor units by opening and closing the doors and WALLAH (sp?), worked on the first try. Did it a few times on each side and they worked great, opened quickly and closed after like 2 seconds.

Now onto the last step, attaching the actual running boards. I had a hell of a time getting the T-bolts onto the running boards, So I ended up taking off the end cap (2 screws) and that made it much easier. Slid in 8 bolts on each board and laid under them and lined them up with the units and bolted them on. No issue after I got the T-bolts on there. Now I didn't tighten them up yet. I opened and closed each side a few times to get everything to rest in its final resting place and then tightened everything up.

Ford F-150 Lightning Wolfbox Power Running Boards Review PXL_20260723_120033723.MP



The last last step was cleanup. Zip tying all the wires and then placing the ‘brains’ unit to the right of the battery, here is where I placed it and tied up all the wiring. Kinda messy but you never see it. There was plenty of room in the battery bay. I actually zip tied the brains to the plastic bay if you look closely.

Ford F-150 Lightning Wolfbox Power Running Boards Review PXL_20260723_141815907


After tightening everything up, they look amazing. They are super quiet, work right away, and I don't have to worry about the finickyness of magnets. Great job @Wolfbox!

I should also mention they come with LED lights that you can wire up too, but I didn't install those because I have LED strips already installed under there, hooked up to the place where the stock running board lights hook into.

Ford F-150 Lightning Wolfbox Power Running Boards Review PXL_20260723_142305594
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mattbrac3

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Those are slick brother. Made my decision for me when the time comes!
 

fhteagle

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Any idea how well they sense / cutout if deployment or retraction is blocked? Snow piles with embedded ice can be tricksy lol
 

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great job sir! However, I used to own a brand new new Navigator about 15 yrs ago and factory installed running boards were malfunctioning so much so that I had the truck serviced 3 times because they were so faulty! .. luckily for me I'm happy enough with what I got now. cheers!
 

CerebralPrimate

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I did the Rough Country ones on my Lariat. They've been fine since install and cost far less than the AMP ones.

Ford F-150 Lightning Wolfbox Power Running Boards Review 1784911384607-dh
 

Aminorjourney

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For those interested:

I am about to install these over at Transport Evolved and I'm actually working on making a custom harness to plug between the stock Trailer control module and the powered steps.

The male sockets are designed to be soldered into a PCB, but if you're half-decent at soldering, you *can* solder the wires directly on. Be aware though that it's all-too-easy to melt the housing on the socket.



You can make your own, using a STAC64 socket with A polarization (straight male) and a matching female plug.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0347720140/4279252 (Male socket)
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0349690140/4279254 (Female Socket)
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/1326030-4/2332574 (female 12AWG Crimp) x 4
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0348033211/5029975 (female 22 AWG crimp) x10.

I think you could probably use the female 20 AWG if you want a little extra on your lower voltage wires, but I am using 22 AWG.

You need 12 AWG wire for the four large pins (plus the matched 12AWG female connectors) - and 22 AWG for the lower-current wires (the ten smaller pins) - plus 22 AWG-matched female connectors. The idea is to pass through ALL the pins, while ensuring pins 6 (CAN High) and 7 (CAN Low) are run as a twisted pair.

You'll also need to tap off CAN High (pin 6) and CAN Low (pin 7), and make a twisted pair to connect to the Wolfbox controller.

You'll also need to tap off the CAN High and Low, and make a twisted pair to connect to the Wolfbox controller.

I'll share more info in the next week (Still making the loom after I used the wrong gauge on the lower-current wires last week!)
 
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Moto.Minded

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Very nice! I was eyeing these today actually. Couple q's for ya...

Do you feel that the placement when extended is ideal? Definitely looks lower and further away from the truck than OEM.

How's the grip on it? OEM sucks.

If I was going to use the included lights, are those plug n play using the wiring for the OEM boards?

PS can you share a profile shot of the whole truck with them up when you get a chance?

Thanks
 
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asianman35

asianman35

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Very nice! I was eyeing these today actually. Couple q's for ya...

Do you feel that the placement when extended is ideal? Definitely looks lower and further away from the truck than OEM.

How's the grip on it? OEM sucks.

If I was going to use the included lights, are those plug n play using the wiring for the OEM boards?

PS can you share a profile shot of the whole truck with them up when you get a chance?

Thanks
yes, placement is better than in-place running boards, they come out a little farther and lower than in-place running boards, which makes it easier to get in and out.

grip is great, havent had an issue

yes, the lights that come with it just use an extra y-harness attached tothe motor.
 

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Aminorjourney

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Well, we just wrapped on the review - We'll be publishing our take on Transport Evolved on Thursday this week. We didn't follow the standard install guide, but I think we ended up with a really clean install that doesn't have any cables near the battery pack!
 
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asianman35

asianman35

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Well, we just wrapped on the review - We'll be publishing our take on Transport Evolved on Thursday this week. We didn't follow the standard install guide, but I think we ended up with a really clean install that doesn't have any cables near the battery pack!
looking forward to seeing how you did it!
 

Aminorjourney

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looking forward to seeing how you did it!
As requested - here's our video review (which was a gifted review form @Wolfbox - But disclaimer: Wolfbox didn't have any editorial control and only sees it when everyone else does. Our words are our own).





If you want to build your own pass-through harness for the STAC64 trailer control module connector, here’s the parts list:

You’ll also need:

The pass-through is a straight one-to-one mapping — pin 1 goes to pin 1, pin 2 goes to pin 2, and so on all the way through for every position on the connector, so nothing gets crossed or reordered. Keep pin 6 (CAN High) and pin 7 (CAN Low) run as a twisted pair, then tap off that same twisted pair to feed the WOLFBOX controller — also twisted.

To twist the CAN pair yourself, chuck one end of the two wires into a cordless drill, have someone hold the other end taut (or anchor it), and run the drill slowly until you get a consistent, even twist along the length — this video shows the technique clearly. It only takes a few seconds once you get the tension right.

If you choose to use the same technique we did (a reverse install) you’ll also need:

  • 12 AWG cable — to extend the power and earth wires (If you choose to mirror our install)
  • A new round terminal — for the grounding point
  • 25 Amp Micro2 fuse + add-a-tap fuse holder — to tap position 27 on the internal passenger fusebox
 
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asianman35

asianman35

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As requested - here's our video review (which was a gifted review form @Wolfbox - But disclaimer: Wolfbox didn't have any editorial control and only sees it when everyone else does. Our words are our own).





If you want to build your own pass-through harness for the STAC64 trailer control module connector, here’s the parts list:

You’ll also need:

The pass-through is a straight one-to-one mapping — pin 1 goes to pin 1, pin 2 goes to pin 2, and so on all the way through for every position on the connector, so nothing gets crossed or reordered. Keep pin 6 (CAN High) and pin 7 (CAN Low) run as a twisted pair, then tap off that same twisted pair to feed the WOLFBOX controller — also twisted.

To twist the CAN pair yourself, chuck one end of the two wires into a cordless drill, have someone hold the other end taut (or anchor it), and run the drill slowly until you get a consistent, even twist along the length — this video shows the technique clearly. It only takes a few seconds once you get the tension right.

If you choose to use the same technique we did (a reverse install) you’ll also need:

  • 12 AWG cable — to extend the power and earth wires (If you choose to mirror our install)
  • A new round terminal — for the grounding point
  • 25 Amp Micro2 fuse + add-a-tap fuse holder — to tap position 27 on the internal passenger fusebox
Great video! Very creative install, I wouldve also loved to not have to tap in to the factory wiring, but I dont have the background to make my own harness, good job!
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