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I’d like to have some Tremor wheels but $3k right now on eBay.

Nice. How do you like the 5100's? Do they have 2wd versions? 4wd only/ Just curious. I thought about trying some new rear shocks, just wanted to see if I needed to buy 2wd specific since my block is removed.

Which module did they replace? APIM or Sync? Sounds like they didn't program something correctly. Or whichever one they replaced could have an older version of software. Did you notice if your sync version changed after they replaced whatever? If it's just a setting they have wrong, Jesse will...

I don’t think you will have a problem. I did that to my ‘14 for months before I upgraded the speakers. The key is to lower your bass level in the head unit that is going to all speakers and use your powered sub settings to increase the bass level.

Get back “a few grand”, wtf.

I was looking at the base stereos, the wiring shows 4, 5, 6, and 7 speaker systems lol. Well, I’ve always put in aftermarket; except for this truck (I’d rather my boat be rocking these days, lol), but I believe the base system is always the easiest. The base system(s) use only the ACM for...

front doors are probably a good choice. I don’t know anyone that has put a scope on it to see, but I’d imagine they are full range. which system do you have now? b&o, unleashed etc?

That is typical for the F150. Mine going all the way back to 2010, were all like that. I never get any glare from the passenger side, prob based on the angle I have it set, and tinted windows.

I thought the same thing lol. Is it right hand drive? lol

No don’t worry about the open circuit. What happens is that the truck expects to see resistance on a speaker output but it doesn’t. The wires are now going to an amp that has little to no resistance vs the factory speaker so the system thinks there is an open circuit. They didn’t do anything wrong.

I wouldn’t sweat it. I’d wager those are DTCs that occurred when you had the level installed or (did it yourself?). The acm DTCs are the aftermarket audio. Those DTCs are logged to help troubleshoot. That is why Livnitup said to clear them and see if they return. If they return, then you have an...

that’s crazy. The IR for blue cruise is emitting constantly? Anyway here are the wires involved.

I think they are similar in function but for the EV it’s more for regenerative braking, in the F150 it’s more for off-roading.

Agree with Jesse. The parts will become much cheaper. It’s usually the APIM and screen that stay pretty expensive, the acm not so much.

Give it a shot, couldn't hurt anything. I would think it is a different ACM part #, but who knows. Knowing Ford maybe its the same, and they just disable it. lol.

Man, there are a whole lot of variables in this assumption. I have never had a kicker key, but any amp that says "gain-matching, crossover frequency control, AutoEQ, Compression, Limiter, and more, that automatically tunes your system" would seem to do as much "processing" as the stock system...

I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B081VQVD3F?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Yea, not sure what the issue is. I use a laptop and a wired obd connector. Also, I had to go into the ipma “as built”, because the “easy” ipma (one that doesn’t say “as built” next to it) only has 2 lines in it.

Great, hopefully it will work. I have a lariat, crew cab, fx4, 502A package. I leave my truck running and make changes, never had an issue. I just cycle off and back on when it says. ***notes that may help: When I make APIM changes, when it says to cycle the ignition; I always hit the button...