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Dope! Thank you! @rugedraw Sounds like no need for dealer visit on the CSP then and just wait for BC1.4 OTA. Interesting how the update takes an hour plus with FDRS and requires a heavy duty power supply but OTA and it's done on the 12v battery alone and less time. I'm guessing the update is...

Ok good to hear. I am in EAP. I'm guessing/hoping the 1.4 update supercedes the sensor CSP since it updates the same modules. Any idea if that's the case @Mike G @rugedraw @TaxmanHog ? @Mike G can you please share a breakdown like you shared here...

Can anyone confirm getting BC 1.4 without getting the CSP for the front sensors done? I’m hoping to avoid dropping my truck off at the dealership to spend a day in door-ding alley.

It was pushed and the file was corrupted or your module is already up to date. Either ford will re-push in a week or so or it will be skipped. Nothing to do or you can do but wait

Push the button in the truck before you get out, use the remote or your phone to open as you walk up.

10.x.x isnnot a vehicle software version. It’s an Update Number. There is no truck software version. Each module has a software version. Different trucks are shipped with modules on different versions and/or with different hardware iterations of the module. Hence not all trucks get every update...

Manual frunk release. Pull twice two release First pull pops it Second pull releases the emergency safety catch found on all hoods

No papers?

I had some trouble with the DHCP server is was using. I had AdGuard home deployed and for some reason the Sync system would not connect and request and IP from the AdGuard built in DHCP. I disabled the AdGuard DHCP and went back to the router DHCP. Worked fine after that.

Updates are Pushed by VIN. Ford does not post the updates for anyone to download. It’s pushed in batches just like Tesla and Rivian. Updates are VIN specific because not all trims have all the same modules. Everyone has the APIM so everyone should get this one… eventually

Top tip, unlock with your remote or phone (instead of the handle) and the sync system will start booting before you open the door.

Don’t waste your time mate. They just ask your location and give you the dealership info and pass along some platitudes. Ford Corp. has zero power to move you up the queue or make anything happen at the local dealer level. This seems just like a marketing good vibes thing they do here. Just...

Sweet thanks for the reply. Sent you a PM.

@TaxmanHog i started a thread on this in June when this bulletin was released. Just FYI

I'm guessing you may be a troll based on your post but I'll share some insight just in case you are genuine. 1) Just curious why you charge to 100 every day when the manual recommends only charge to 80%? Unless you are going on a long trip and need the extra range, charging to 100% is not...

You need more Amps to generate more kW output and more HP. The third pack on the ER trucks gives those extra Amps

Give it a few days, if it does not clear on its own then pull the 12v battery negative cable. Then while the 12v is powered down, go in the truck and press the start button to clear any residual power out of the 12v system. Wait 2 min then reattach the negative battery terminal. What 5 more...

my factory wheels were only torqued to 115-125 and made some clicking sounds. I torqued them to spec and went away.

You checked the lug nut torque? 150 ft lb

If you are in the truck and want to keep the AC on just leave the truck ON, you can get out and lock the door to keep the truck cool while running errands or whatever. If there is no key detected the truck won't shift out of Park even if it's turned on. The vehicle will turn off after 30 min...