Yeah, a couple people keep saying to pull that fuse to fix connectivity...I wouldn't.
Aside from the issue you spoke of, a couple others on Facebook have been blowing Fuse 32 trying to go that shortcut instead of just disconnecting the Negative terminal.
I exclusively use 1PD, I switch between my truck and my wife's van every other day. I have no issues going back and forth. I also have no issues going between an auto and a manual, everyone's muscle memory is just different.
It's 15% off $320?!?!
Yeah, no.
I'd chill on the Tesla adapters, things are about to rapidly change with Tesla opening up their network. Soon, I imagine, Tesla will sell a much more affordable adapter themselves.
Without zone lighting it can be turned on and off via the newly installed switch, and I think also the cargo bed light physical button in the truck (next to headlamp selector).
If it was a software issue, no Lightnings would have heated steering wheels. This is 100% due to a parts shortage. Anyone without a heated wheel will need hardware of some type added to their truck.
I had the same issue as you, if you'd like to recreate all the steps I did to get mine working you could remove the negative lead from the 12v battery, wait 10 seconds and reattach (you'll need a 10mm socket/wrench). I didn't do it in hopes of fixing the rain sensor, I did it because FordPass...
My guess is you don't HAVE to reset every module, but trying to figure out which needs it and which doesn't is a bigger pain. Resetting modules shouldn't have side effects, at least not like pulling the 12v has been having. Reset each module, then cycle the ignition, and I bet it works. Make...