Disable (00) was successful, and does NOT interfere with mis-lock notification (ie honking if a door is not closed completely.) I did not attempt INOP (02) since Disable worked.
Thanks!
Everything I needed to get started I was able to find through the tutorial that @Livnitup put together and linked in the first post.
For the sake of ease, I'll re-link it here also:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-8dKaS_Spu4Zw4hV_CrKC4tLoP9G8yejqegF1wxIqxY/edit
Can confirm that Digital Engine/Coolant temp & Transmission Temp (720-07-01) works; Keyfob Panic Button (726-62-01) works; and Keyfob Panic Alarm (726-01-02) works.
As you suspected I could not get Digital Oil Pressure (720-07-01) to enable, nor could I get Keyfob Car Finder (726-28-01) to...
That is a VERY cool idea! Pun completely intended.
I wish they had more full product pictures though. For example I'd be interested in how it is supposed to attach to the vehicle. Does the vehicle side just have a standard female receptacle on the other end so it can just be plugged in or does...
Can confirm these two are successful!
Double Horn Honk disable
BCM
726-63-02
xxx0
xxxx
xx--
Fogs on when high beams are on (aka Bambi Mode)
BCM
726-39-02
xxx0
xxxx
xx--
I attempted this one but could not get it to work; the horn still sounded after pressing the remote lock button...
Yup. Because we opted for the block heater we end up with a giant hole in the front of our trucks. Makes perfect sense when you're trying to retain heat, right?
After I get the solid piece I'm planning on installing one of these next to the license plate bracket...
I wouldn't say it leaks A LOT, but it's definitely not waterproof. More like, water resistant. I too had aluminum shavings all over my MX4, and the plastic end caps at the ends of each hinge keep trying to pop out. I've already lost one of the end caps off of the side rails because of this. In...
THIS. This is irritating. Granted not huge in the grand scheme of things.
I haven't had issues with the frontage road signs, school zone signs (ours are yellow and it seems to ignore them), or recommended speed signs (also yellow) being picked up, but I completely agree with the Truck speed...
Sounds good. I put most of the front end back together but I left the center piece and license plate bracket off. I suppose just shoot me a direct message with your shipping info whenever you are ready. I'll box then up tomorrow and get them ready to go. ?
Also, the front license plate brackets may also have to be traded. I'm not sure how the one for the solid front piece is supposed to attach, but this one looks like it was designed to work with the open center piece only.
OK, so after a little bit of finagling, and a lot more removal than should have been necessary, I managed to get the center piece off in one piece.
I would double check the PN to make sure that it will fit with your installation, but honestly I don't see why it wouldn't.
If it looks...
Front camera is at the bottom of the Ford badge, and rear camera is in the tailgate release assy. At least mine is. Rear Ford logo does not have anything to do with the camera, so you're in the clear there.
Edit: Just saw your occupation. Small world!
There is at least one other thread that I know of dedicated to this question.
https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/adding-work-station-after-sale-part-numbers.1145/
You can read through all the posts to understand better what exactly would be involved, but the cliff notes version is: Yes...
Well I'm planning on doing my first oil change on Monday so while I'm down there I'll make sure I can get that panel off without damaging anything. If you're up for trading at that point let me know.
That opening was one of the first things I noticed when they backed it off the truck. Without...
Since the original post was also from the owner of a 5.0/V8 I think in this case it'll be OK. I believe that OP only mentioned the EB in the title because those come with the open design standard because of the cooler. But yes, one should obviously not block the ram air cooling duct on the EB.
The EB engines have a cooler located behind that panel, hence the open design of those. OP has the 5.0 which is the same one I have as well, which normally comes with the solid plate standard. Mine however came with the open plate since that is where Ford mounted the block heater plug. So in...
I haven't really looked into what is involved with removing and replacing this panel, however I was a little disappointed that I did not get the solid one that was depicted everywhere when my truck was delivered.
What is involved with removing them? If it's not that big of a hassle I'd be...
The V8s with factory block heaters installed also have the insert you are looking for.
I know because my V8 has a block heater and has that opening. It kind of makes the front end look too open and unfinished IMO. I'm not sure why they didn't just reroute the plug through the upper grille.
I was in exactly the same boat. Every once in a while I thought I could hear something out of my headrest, but it was never enough to be sure.
After Bubbles, I have no doubt that they work. :LOL:
I've found that if you adjust the fade all the way aft, then the headrest speakers are more noticeable. They seem to mimic rear passenger speaker levels.
I also usually leave my fade/balance about 2 to 3 "clicks" aft because otherwise the front center speaker seems to overpower everything else...