I could be wrong, but I think at 120v the mobile EVSE only draws 12 amps, the intent being to keep it from tripping a standard 15 amp breaker.
The annoying part is that it should be enough to keep the pack warm even if there's next to nothing left to add energy to the battery.
I was using the mobile charger that came with my Rivian. But to your question, I would definitely get yourself a mobile cord to carry in your vehicle at all times - and all the better if you can avoid the Ford unit.
I should point out I was NOT using the mobile power cord provided by Ford. I knew it had trouble with cold temps so I brought another set as backup and that's what I ended up using at the cabin.
I recently stayed at a cabin for a ski trip weekend. There was no EVSE, but I was able to plug in to the 110v overnight. The distance from the cabin to the skiing location was about 20 miles, so we drove about 40 miles round trip every day. Temps were at about 0F. The overnight charging...
I don't have personal experience, but have researched a bit since I have two EVs. The only reasonable one I found was made by Grizzl-E. Works off a single 50-amp circuit and has two J-1772 connectors. If only one vehicle is plugged in, it delivers the full 40 amps to that vehicle. If two are...
Makes sense!
And just because I can't resist... I'll point out that you're not necessarily moving MORE air molecules when you go faster, just moving them at a higher rate (more per second), which requires more energy - yes? :)
This I did not know! I figured while driving it used a bit of energy to achieve/maintain proper conditions for driving, and then did a little bit more when navigating to a DCFC to optimize for charging. But you're saying it does nothing to the battery while driving? If that's the case, then what...
In timing the charge to end at (or close to) your departure time, is your goal to limit the time the battery spends at full charge? Or are you just trying to take advantage of the charging warmth to have a warmer battery when you leave?
If it's the former, I'd say don't worry about it - and/or...
Agreed. To limit your use to 90% of your battery (meaning you charge to 100% and leave 10% buffer) you would need to average about 1.4 mi/kWh. This is reasonable for cold temps. My only hesitation would be for elevation gain, but if it's a round trip then presumably that should even out. Is...
To me, this is further reason why we really just need more chargers along highways. They don't need to be fancy, or even hyper-fast. I would settle for a single 50kW unit every 50 miles or so. You can even make them expensive to offset the installation cost and discourage casual use. But having...
On a related note, I enjoy the full hands-free BlueCruise, but find the regular lane-assist annoying. I wish there was an indicator on the dash to let you know if you are on a road that supports hands-free.
This would be amazing - basically an app that does what I always do clumsily on the fly with my phone calculator. Wish there was a version for Android...
GoM is nearly useless. Works better when using Ford Nav, but still not worthwhile. For me it ALWAYS overestimates range.
I'd say you have a rare case there. Most folks charge where they park and there is minimal effort involved with plugging in. But fine - I'll clarify. There's no benefit to the battery to run it down to 25% before charging.
There's no benefit to "run it down" to 25% before charging. It doesn't help the battery, and only leaves you at risk of having only 25% if something unexpected were to come up and you needed to drive a long way.
Given your short commute, I would recommend setting your limit to 70% or 80% and...
Agreed that native route intelligence is not yet trustable. Agreed that ABRP is great. But I have also found that PlugShare has a fairly decent routing tool as well (maybe just for medium distance drives, like 200 miles or so) - especially if you want to hand-select your own chargers. You can...