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I know preconditioning saves some range by using shore power to acclimate the battery instead of using battery power to do it during a drive. But I am wondering if there are benefits to just warming the battery once a day in general (like for the health of the battery). On a daily basis I'm not...

At the risk of echoing the sentiments of others, I will add my two cents. Not all miles are created equal. Some miles use a lot of energy, and some use very little (and some can even ADD energy if there's a lot of downhill and regen). The guess-o-meter does its best to estimate your range based...

I got that same error the first two times I tried. Third time was a charm.

Please plug in your phone. That screenshot is giving me anxiety.

These are 20x9 (+20 offset) Fuel Vector wheels with 285/60R20 Mickey Thompon A/Ts

Even if you've never towed, you might double check if there's an active trailer selected. Aside from that, I would suggest charging it up to 100% one time to see if that triggers some recalibration. That has worked for me in the past.

I have a similar setup, but not experiencing any rubbing. I've got 20x9 Fuel Vector wheels with +20 offset (OEM wheels are +44 for reference), Mickey Thompson Baja Boss 285/60R20 tires. I'm seeing a bit of poke as well - more than I thought it would be. Wouldn't mind adding those flares like...

This is well-stated, IMO. I have back-checked the efficiency numbers by doing the math, and it requires me to convert SoC into kWh (multiplying the percentage by 131), because efficiency is stated in terms of mi/kWh. I have found it to be pretty accurate and it has given me a "real world" mental...

If your range estimate is stuck in trailer mode it has nothing to do with being in the "Tow/Haul" driving mode. The problem is you still have an "active trailer" selected. To recalculate You have to go into the Towing app from the home screen, and then go to select active trailer, and choose "no...

I already have a long list of warning alerts I would like to disable. This is another good one for the list.

This is true - and an interesting fact about the ProPower system. Even though they are fed by the same "circuit", each of the 120v legs is limited to 20 amps (16 sustained, 1,920 watts), but the 240v line which uses both of the legs has the full 30 amps available (24 sustained, 5,760 watts).

This is a cool idea. I come close to tripping the 120v outlet when I use an electric pressure washer. (it does trip when I add a 200w pump on the same extension cord.) Would be nice to have more amps available.

I'm not certain, but I believe if you shift to neutral and the auto-hold is engaged you will see a message on the dash saying you can tap the brake pedal to disengage the auto-old.

This is well-stated, in my opinion. Have a good base of knowledge in how your vehicle performs in various circumstances and you should be able to set your own reasonable expectations based on the math you pointed out. To that I would only add that I have noticed the range estimate does appear...

Yep, I hit OK on all the warnings and then the next time I shift to R the warnings all reappear.

It's every time. I was executing a multi-point turn trying get the trailer turned around in a tight space so I was shifting somewhat frequently.

To this I would add that you might want to check with your utility to see if they offer rebates for installing a home EVSE. In my case they had specific models that earned a $500 rebate which fully covered my cost.

Yes, I've gone through all the setup steps. It's not the sensors themselves, but rather all the warnings on the dash telling me that "cross traffic sensing is disabled" etc... I'm just tired of being warned about it.

I just towed for the first time yesterday and had a similar situation. After I disconnected the trailer, the truck still seemed to think I was towing (as indicated by my range estimate) and I needed to specifically go to the towing screen to select No Active Trailer. My guess is that the truck...

Disregarding wait times, I like them both, but for different reasons of course. The R1S is certainly more refined, drives tighter, and software is better. Lightning is of course a truck so it drives like one but that's not necessarily a bad thing. It's cushier for long trips and I like the...