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GDN

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Mine's due to go in on Monday for this CSP and the control arm recall. First time taking my truck in for service and I don't have a lot of faith in my dealer's abilities when it comes to EVs. Do you all recommend bringing in some documentation or giving them additional information? I don't want to tell them how to do their job but I also want to avoid any issues that can be easily prevented...
This is always a dilemma. So many dealers really don't understand, but most will think you are trying to "mansplain" it to them if you act like like you might know something or try to point them in the right direction. It truly seems the Service Advisors don't know how to interpret it anyone and almost no one will let you talk to the mechanic. So it seems you're just better off telling them the basics - straight forward of what you want/need done. Just refer to the CSP and and tell them you need it resolved. Then have one of the good guys on here check your truck after to see if they really did.
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This is always a dilemma. So many dealers really don't understand, but most will think you are trying to "mansplain" it to them if you act like like you might know something or try to point them in the right direction. It truly seems the Service Advisors don't know how to interpret it anyone and almost no one will let you talk to the mechanic. So it seems you're just better off telling them the basics - straight forward of what you want/need done. Just refer to the CSP and and tell them you need it resolved. Then have one of the good guys on here check your truck after to see if they really did.

I've noticed that mentioning "forums" or "I printed out the CSP" instantly triggers many dealer service writers (haha). Techs, on the other hand, are usually fine with customers who know a bit about their vehicles, but service writers often cock-block direct communication with them, which is frustrating.

Mobile service is a great option, but be cautious about updates. Last week, I let a mobile tech update my truck, but they used jumper cables instead of a proper 12V power supply. This fried the 12v battery. When I took it to the dealer the next day (after having to jump-start it), they tested the battery with the truck fully on/running (i.e. charging the 12v battery) and their test-tool printout showed 600CCA and 14V (impossible on a 380CC battery), and declared it "good." They refused to replace it even after I pointed out how the printout was impossible. The service writer became angry when I asked if the tech was EV-certified so I just left.

I tried another Ford dealer who had a tech come look at the truck and printout from the first dealer. He confirmed the other tech did not test the battery properly and ran a quick test to confirm the battery was in fact toast.. But they wouldn’t take it as warranty work, saying, “We don’t fix another dealer’s mistake—Ford won’t pay warranty for it.”
With no time to escalate to the service manager at the first dealer, I spent $140 on a new battery (and BMS to be safe). Luckily the second dealer had a fresh battery in stock.

When it’s my wife’s car, I can’t risk her being stranded while dealing with dealer back-and-forth. Time is money.

Not sure why following methods of procedure from Ford and being forthright is such a challenging thing for many dealerships. The second dealership seems to have their s*it together so I'll be working with them going forward.
 
 







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