RickLightning
Well-known member
@Baja Lightning, many of the issues you bring up have been discussed here many times.
- First, you aren't adding 1.4kW per hour on 120v, and you don't have a 128kWh battery. The battery is either 131kWh or 123kWh, and charging on 120v, net to the vehicle is 120vx12ampsx85%(15% loss)=1.2kW at best, often 1.1.
- In the US, the rated range is an EPA number, a formula with local and highway driving. Your range is predicted but the GOM based on your historic driving. Put your destination in the navigation, and it will adjust range based on the destination, and indicate range has been adjusted. Now, drive different than expected (20mph faster for example), and the range will continue to adjust, in this case downwards. You need to learn YOUR normal efficiency, and then do math - i.e. 1.7 miles per kWh x 131kWh battery x 20% left = 44.5 miles of range. BUT, that 131kWh assumes no degradation, and 77 degrees. In fact, you might have 128 or 125 or ... Nobody gets EPA estimates on an ICE truck, but everyone expects to get it on an EV...
- If I was driving where you are driving, I would have the CarScanner app and an OBD adapter, but in 2025 there are values that are inaccessible. You would need to verify that things like Energy, which is the amount of kWh available, are displayed.
- The Ford Mobile chargers pull 30amps, but in 2025 Ford allows you to lower the amperage the vehicle seeks, and you could have lowered it to say 16amps for each truck (2024 and earlier cannot be adjusted, at least yet).
- Plan your trip with ABRP and PlugShare. With the proper adapters and knowledge, you would have avoided your issues. I use 1.7 miles per kWh to plan my trips.
Hope this helps.
Adapter for CarScanner
- First, you aren't adding 1.4kW per hour on 120v, and you don't have a 128kWh battery. The battery is either 131kWh or 123kWh, and charging on 120v, net to the vehicle is 120vx12ampsx85%(15% loss)=1.2kW at best, often 1.1.
- In the US, the rated range is an EPA number, a formula with local and highway driving. Your range is predicted but the GOM based on your historic driving. Put your destination in the navigation, and it will adjust range based on the destination, and indicate range has been adjusted. Now, drive different than expected (20mph faster for example), and the range will continue to adjust, in this case downwards. You need to learn YOUR normal efficiency, and then do math - i.e. 1.7 miles per kWh x 131kWh battery x 20% left = 44.5 miles of range. BUT, that 131kWh assumes no degradation, and 77 degrees. In fact, you might have 128 or 125 or ... Nobody gets EPA estimates on an ICE truck, but everyone expects to get it on an EV...
- If I was driving where you are driving, I would have the CarScanner app and an OBD adapter, but in 2025 there are values that are inaccessible. You would need to verify that things like Energy, which is the amount of kWh available, are displayed.
- The Ford Mobile chargers pull 30amps, but in 2025 Ford allows you to lower the amperage the vehicle seeks, and you could have lowered it to say 16amps for each truck (2024 and earlier cannot be adjusted, at least yet).
- Plan your trip with ABRP and PlugShare. With the proper adapters and knowledge, you would have avoided your issues. I use 1.7 miles per kWh to plan my trips.
Hope this helps.
Adapter for CarScanner
Sponsored
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