Easycamper
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F-150 Lightning Electrical System Overview – w/ 12v Battery, Power and Ground Points
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EVBill
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With this indicating that 55 amps is available for 12V accessories, it appears that putting a snow plow on the truck will not be possible. Typically a hydraulic pump for lifting the blade can pull 150-200 amps directly from the 12V battery that would significantly exceed the 55 amps available. Will be interesting if any solutions can be developed once they are out in the real world.
sotek2345
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You could always use a manual / unpowered plow, though I know not many use those.
jefro
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Using the supplied 12V source does seem to be dismal for almost any upfit.
Since the truck has 120VAC in frunk it might be possible to use it or maintain a charge in an additional separate deep cycle battery for almost any use.
Wonder if the AC is available when in drive?
Since the truck has 120VAC in frunk it might be possible to use it or maintain a charge in an additional separate deep cycle battery for almost any use.
Wonder if the AC is available when in drive?
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sotek2345
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So far that have states that it is.
GarageMahal
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Thinking a dc to dc charger hooked to a couple of additional batteries might be the answer.
https://nerdtechy.com/best-12v-dc-battery-charger
Site above mentions a 50amp device which might be just right. More research required...
https://nerdtechy.com/best-12v-dc-battery-charger
Site above mentions a 50amp device which might be just right. More research required...
Garbone
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Easy enough, just put in an auxiliary battery bank and regulate the charge it can draw from the truck. Much like my boat. It has a house bank that is deep cycle for electronics and lights but a separate crank battery for the motor. Just put a high amp battery in the frunk dedicated to service the plow.
BEVolution
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Yes it can stay switched on while driving.
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broncoaz
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55 amps is more than enough to run aftermarket seat heaters and my ARB fridge.
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Most vehicle accessories run on 12vdc.
I wonder how the 12v system would handle additional amplifiers. The duty cycle of an amplifier is generally very low, so the load of even a 1000w amp might only be 100-150w on average, even at decently loud listening. Blasting sine waves would raise that number a bit, but it should still be under the 660w threshold. The 12v battery will still provide a buffer for surges. Running hydraulics and/or a winch could exhaust the buffering capacity of the 12v battery almost immediately.
I wonder how the 12v system would handle additional amplifiers. The duty cycle of an amplifier is generally very low, so the load of even a 1000w amp might only be 100-150w on average, even at decently loud listening. Blasting sine waves would raise that number a bit, but it should still be under the 660w threshold. The 12v battery will still provide a buffer for surges. Running hydraulics and/or a winch could exhaust the buffering capacity of the 12v battery almost immediately.
Lui
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Based on the picture can someone tell the approx size of the battery? H5 or H6 ? I am wondering thks
Lui
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The reason i am asking is because i am planning to change the 12v battery to a lithium ion 12v battery. I found that the lead-lithium ratio is 9:5. So if 55amp lead that will be around 30amp lithium. Please correct me if i am wrong. Want to increase range, even 1% or 2% is ok for me
Other ideas. Remove spare tire around 100lbs (for city drive) and put it back for long trips
Add a bestop or soft tooper cover to reduce drag
Change tires from 20" to 18" or even 17"
My calculations got me around 5% to 10% range increase. I will make a YouTube video to show my findings
336 to 352 miles increase is not bad at all
What r ur thoughts
Other ideas. Remove spare tire around 100lbs (for city drive) and put it back for long trips
Add a bestop or soft tooper cover to reduce drag
Change tires from 20" to 18" or even 17"
My calculations got me around 5% to 10% range increase. I will make a YouTube video to show my findings
336 to 352 miles increase is not bad at all
What r ur thoughts
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