Installing Pro Power Onboard 9.6kW Inverter - OEM

[TechnoSwiss]

Has anybody made any progress with this? Only real regret I have with the truck was not being able to find a Lariat trim with the 9.6kW pro-power.

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[ZSC100]

Has anybody made any progress with this? Only real regret I have with the truck was not being able to find a Lariat trim with the 9.6kW pro-power.

I have made a LOT of progress with two related projects and have another starting soon with a university involving the battery. I understand everything needed to make this happen. If you buy the parts I'm willing to fully help/support getting it working. You will need to remove the bed and be prepared to do some harness work unless you want to buy factory harnesses.

 

[TechnoSwiss]

If using factory harnesses, what access is needed, is that still all under the bed, or does it require getting up under the cab as well? I'd seen mention about the need to tap into the cooling loop as well, how involved does that appear to be? Do we know what all the factory part numbers are for the upgrade so it's possible to take a look at part costs? Thanks.

 

[mr2urbo004]

I have made a LOT of progress with two related projects and have another starting soon with a university involving the battery. I understand everything needed to make this happen. If you buy the parts I'm willing to fully help/support getting it working. You will need to remove the bed and be prepared to do some harness work unless you want to buy factory harnesses.

Whats the exact parts needed.

 

[ZSC100]

This is part of what needs pioneered, removing the bed and documenting the actual physical parts with good pictures and written in a sequential DIY format. I'm willing to build that document if someone wants to tackle this and just communicate it all to me. The coolant stuff is easy peasy. I recently had a coolant valve go bad on my lightning. Replacing it and actually fixing it b/c the part wasn't available assured me what I should've already known. Working on the coolant system is super easy. The hoses can be cut and fitted with tees and extensions, with spring clamps super easy. There's absolutely no reason to buy expensive Ford parts for the cooling system. Just cut, tee, and buy hose from a local supplier.


I do fully believe all work can be done easily from just removing the bed, but unless the person pioneering this is willing to drive for a week with no bed on their truck they should probably be able to pull it off and put it on easily/quickly.

 

[TechnoSwiss]

Gotcha, sadly probably not at a point where I have time to help figure it out, but good to know it looks like it's possible we (royal we) just need to figure out the full process. Might be able to help with that in a few months if somebody else doesn't get it worked through before then. I did push off adding a spray-in-bed-liner to my truck to make getting the bed off easier.

 

[ZSC100]

If anyone on here says they have $2k to try this, I'll do the legwork on all the parts needed and get started on the DIY. with a parts list. Just let me know.

 

[chl]

You need a HVAC soft start to not overload the system when it start and it will be fine after that.

Yes, if you're running amps is 30 or below - it could be higher if you live in a really big house with a really big HVAC.

Check the name plate for the full load amperage rating, or ask the manufacturer/installer.

Those soft-start things add $200 to $400 to the cost, but they say they extend the life of your system.

 

[chl]

It appears to be Part #: NL3Z14290M
https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/e...ck-control-module-wiring-harness-p-nl3z14290m

I'm able to see this diagram on parts.ford.com, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to go from the base # 14289A to the actual part # NL3Z14290M. My parts guy at the dealer said he also doesn't know why they don't really make it easy to do this for owners on parts.ford.com, but once the dealer provided me the part # I could plug it in and see that the description does make sense:

Drive Motor Battery Pack Control Module Wiring Harness
Power Inverter #3. Single Phase Charger - 145"/3675MM Wheelbase.

I could try to figure out the coolant hoses this way too ,but I honestly think the coolant hoses can be done with normal automotive plumbing methods but will need an example vehicle to go by to know where they tee in. We need someone with this Pro Power Onboard 9.6kW to be able to reference, take pics, have their bed pulled off . Preferably a Pro or XLT.

I'm guessing the 7.2kW, 240V inverter is referred to as "Power Inverter #3", so I searched this and found this:

Part #: NL3Z7F120A
https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/engine/engine-cooling/engine-coolant-pipe-tube-p-nl3z7f120a

Part #: NL3Z8D121B
https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/engine/engine-cooling/engine-coolant-pipe-hose-inlet-p-nl3z8d121b

I believe the 240V output comes from a pair of 120V inverters, at least that is the way it is displayed on my dash when running backup to my house - like a split bus system.

 

[chl]

Still too much. If i get the 7500 rebate plus 2k state rebate the truck becomes 30k.

$7500 is for NEW vehicles, used get a lower tax credit

 

[mr2urbo004]

This is part of what needs pioneered, removing the bed and documenting the actual physical parts with good pictures and written in a sequential DIY format. I'm willing to build that document if someone wants to tackle this and just communicate it all to me. The coolant stuff is easy peasy. I recently had a coolant valve go bad on my lightning. Replacing it and actually fixing it b/c the part wasn't available assured me what I should've already known. Working on the coolant system is super easy. The hoses can be cut and fitted with tees and extensions, with spring clamps super easy. There's absolutely no reason to buy expensive Ford parts for the cooling system. Just cut, tee, and buy hose from a local supplier.


I do fully believe all work can be done easily from just removing the bed, but unless the person pioneering this is willing to drive for a week with no bed on their truck they should probably be able to pull it off and put it on easily/quickly.

I would do it. Only way for me to keep the truck is to have the pro propower.

I believe the 240V output comes from a pair of 120V inverters, at least that is the way it is displayed on my dash when running backup to my house - like a split bus system.

240v has it own concerter different than the 120v.

 

[mr2urbo004]

$7500 is for NEW vehicles, used get a lower tax credit

Got my truck new for 40k but I didnt qualify for 7500rebate.

 

[mr2urbo004]

If anyone on here says they have $2k to try this, I'll do the legwork on all the parts needed and get started on the DIY. with a parts list. Just let me know.

$2k is worth it. But wish the dealer added it for me the first place.

 

[chl]

Since a Ford dealership won't add the 7.2kW system after manufacture, it must fairly involved and/or prohibitively expensive - probably a lot of labor involved with HV wiring and cooling system plumbing changes. (Electrical wiring the inverter pair to the HV battery, interconnecting the cooling system has to the new inverter pair, and reprogramming the computer are involved.)

If there are preexisting electrical sockets and capped plumbing connections, it would be much simpler, but so far no one seems to have confirmed there are, or done the upgrade. That tends to indicate it may not be that straightforward.

It was worth it to me to pay the $1200 option price on my 2023 Pro, that's about what a 240V 30A gas generator would cost.

And a DIY upgrade would void the battery warranty if something goes wrong:

WHAT IS NOT COVERED?
Damage Caused By: ...
• modifications to the high voltage battery assembly, high voltage system, or associated wiring

 

[mr2urbo004]

Since a Ford dealership won't add the 7.2kW system after manufacture, it must fairly involved and/or prohibitively expensive - probably a lot of labor involved with HV wiring and cooling system plumbing changes. (Electrical wiring the inverter pair to the HV battery, interconnecting the cooling system has to the new inverter pair, and reprogramming the computer are involved.)

If there are preexisting electrical sockets and capped plumbing connections, it would be much simpler, but so far no one seems to have confirmed there are, or done the upgrade. That tends to indicate it may not be that straightforward.

It was worth it to me to pay the $1200 option price on my 2023 Pro, that's about what a 240V 30A gas generator would cost.

And a DIY upgrade would void the battery warranty if something goes wrong:

WHAT IS NOT COVERED?
Damage Caused By: ...
• modifications to the high voltage battery assembly, high voltage system, or associated wiring

Yes it was worth it but dealer GM didnt do it for me.

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