Tailgate inop water intrusion mod

[Mr.Electron]

I have seen alot of posts regarding the power tailgate issues. After collecting data from multiple sources I have determined the fault to be due to poor fore thought and an overlook during the quality control phase of the design of this truck.
Once I opened the tailgate back cover I realized the primary water drains for the tailgate step ladder and the spring loaded clamp mounting holes are pouring water on the tailgate connectors. The drains are located right above the connectors for the light bar, primary junction connector between ladder rails, and the tailgate body control module. Additionally under the body control module is the motor/connector that actuates the tailgate up and down.
I fabricated a bottle cover for all 4 connectors. I tried to take multiple photos but it was dark but hopefully it highlights the concerning areas well.
I basically removed all connectors in the tailgate and filled them with dielectric grease.
Then I crafted some deflectors out of some plastic bottles I had. Where I could I notched out the plastic to fit under the connector mount and it appears to hold securely. All edges of the plastic bottles were heated by a lighter briefly to remove the sharp edge to protect the wiring from chafing. I made a point to not encapsulate the connectors so they could breathe freely.
I reset the battery and I had an issue where the tailgate was not responding to button presses. I had to manually close it and it worked perfectly fine after that. I assume it is because the tailgate position sense needed to be calibrated by closing the tailgate.
Note: One of the contact pins on my light bar was so corroded from water intrusion it just popped off.
Note #2: There is a connector near the spare tire that comes out of the tailgate it is white/tan in color. I also found water in that connector. I suspect the water saturating the connector between the ladder rail is seeping between the conductor and its insulation to drain via gravity into the lower connector by the spare tire. I just filled that one with dielectric grease as well.

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[Montecarlossfan]

Mine wasn’t inoperable but I kept getting the tailgate open message, I cleaned that connector , used dielectric , also made a shield out of essentially dynamat material to deflect water. Amazing quality for a 75k truck isn’t it

 

[CD4TNF]

Great job @Mr.Electron ! Thanks for the great documentation.

We have such an awesome community. Bunch of great innovative folks DIY solving problems with our truck.

 

[rockfish]

I could be wrong on this, but i thought filling connectors with dielectric grease was not the way to go. I don't think its conductive.

I basically removed all connectors in the tailgate and filled them with dielectric grease.

 

[JayF]

I could be wrong on this, but i thought filling connectors with dielectric grease was not the way to go. I don't think its conductive.

I believe the idea is to have only the connection you want (metal-on-metal in the connector) without any conductivity for things you don't want -- e.g. water is not going to displace grease to cause a short.

 

[chl]

I have seen alot of posts regarding the power tailgate issues. After collecting data from multiple sources I have determined the fault to be due to poor fore thought and an overlook during the quality control phase of the design of this truck.
Once I opened the tailgate back cover I realized the primary water drains for the tailgate step ladder and the spring loaded clamp mounting holes are pouring water on the tailgate connectors. The drains are located right above the connectors for the light bar, primary junction connector between ladder rails, and the tailgate body control module. Additionally under the body control module is the motor/connector that actuates the tailgate up and down.
I fabricated a bottle cover for all 4 connectors. I tried to take multiple photos but it was dark but hopefully it highlights the concerning areas well.
I basically removed all connectors in the tailgate and filled them with dielectric grease.
Then I crafted some deflectors out of some plastic bottles I had. Where I could I notched out the plastic to fit under the connector mount and it appears to hold securely. All edges of the plastic bottles were heated by a lighter briefly to remove the sharp edge to protect the wiring from chafing. I made a point to not encapsulate the connectors so they could breathe freely.
I reset the battery and I had an issue where the tailgate was not responding to button presses. I had to manually close it and it worked perfectly fine after that. I assume it is because the tailgate position sense needed to be calibrated by closing the tailgate.
Note: One of the contact pins on my light bar was so corroded from water intrusion it just popped off.
Note #2: There is a connector near the spare tire that comes out of the tailgate it is white/tan in color. I also found water in that connector. I suspect the water saturating the connector between the ladder rail is seeping between the conductor and its insulation to drain via gravity into the lower connector by the spare tire. I just filled that one with dielectric grease as well.

Seems like the Ford designers didn't know there is this thing called rain made of H2O that falls from the sky and/or splashes up from the road sometimes...perhaps they need to get out from behind their computers more and "touch grass" maybe even drive the thing they are designing for a few weeks, eh?

Now that's my kind of fix! Well done!

However, it reminds me of how glad I am that I have neither the light bar or the motorized tail gate to worry about on my Pro!

 

[chl]

I believe the idea is to have only the connection you want (metal-on-metal in the connector) without any conductivity for things you don't want -- e.g. water is not going to displace grease to cause a short.

Yes, the D-grease is not conductive, but the pressure of mating the metal connectors together displaces it from the metal-to-metal connection, apparently...in connectors like these.

 

[Lytning]

@Ford Motor Company ... You need to add this issue to the rear lightbar issue for Engineering attention and remedy.

 

[Mr.Electron]

My smart wife was reading the post and said "oh I thought you shrink wrapped the connectors with the plastic" and she gave me an "AHA" moment. I didn't even think they made heat shrink that big but I will be doing that next. 4 Inch Diameter Heat Shrink This is the product I am going to buy which should shrink down to 2" to provide a more OEM looking water shield.
I want to deflect and not seal it just in case water finds its way in there. I also need to come up with a cleaner install for the body control module deflector. I'll make sure to detail the new process as well.
Status Update: We have had alot of rainfall in my area and my fix seems to be working like a charm. Tailgate gives no issues now.

 

[2sleep]

I will be doing this mod after my dealer gets the parts from FORD so they can replace the lightbar a second time. Weird things that have happened since the tail light bar went out the second time. When I put on the turn signal, both the rear tail lights "hazzard flash" instead of the single turn signal on the correct side. Just the back turn signal lights, not the front. Almost didn't pass yearly inspection because of it.
The second thing I noticed when I back up my driveway incline at night. I back up it so I don't have to try a 3 point (or 5 point in my case) turn in my driveway when I leave. (I was breaking off pieces of my driveway) Also much easier to connect to my charger. Anyway, when I start backing up the incline it is very dark, but if i take my foot off of the excelerator briefly, I think the brake lights come on for a second even though I don't touch the brake. This provides me with enough light for me to orient myself along the side of the driveway. Obviously if I still had backup lights I wouldn't have noticed this so it may be a normal function that I never noticed before.

 

[Mr.Electron]

I will be doing this mod after my dealer gets the parts from FORD so they can replace the lightbar a second time. Weird things that have happened since the tail light bar went out the second time. When I put on the turn signal, both the rear tail lights "hazzard flash" instead of the single turn signal on the correct side. Just the back turn signal lights, not the front. Almost didn't pass yearly inspection because of it.
The second thing I noticed when I back up my driveway incline at night. I back up it so I don't have to try a 3 point (or 5 point in my case) turn in my driveway when I leave. (I was breaking off pieces of my driveway) Also much easier to connect to my charger. Anyway, when I start backing up the incline it is very dark, but if i take my foot off of the excelerator briefly, I think the brake lights come on for a second even though I don't touch the brake. This provides me with enough light for me to orient myself along the side of the driveway. Obviously if I still had backup lights I wouldn't have noticed this so it may be a normal function that I never noticed before.

I would think the brakes lights might come automatically since when you let go of the accelerator the regenerative braking kicks perhaps even briefly. I left my lightbar disconnected in the tailgate until it gets fixed.

For the lights acting funny during turn signals. There is grey/tan connector under the bed near the spare tire that connects all wiring to the tailgate. I found water inside that one. My speculation is since the connectors were flooding in the tailgate. A very small amount of water would drain down between the wiring conductor and the insulation jackets.

 

[2sleep]

Something to check for sure. The dielectric grease you use, is it a spray or is it something in a tube that you pack inside the connector?

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