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I did it this this past weekend. It's going to be really tough to get a video of the wiring due to the nature of where the wiring is. While fishing the wire through was the most difficult part, I wouldn't say it's the toughest project I've done to my truck. Some tips: You will need a Torx bit...

I have a limited sample to compare, however, I've noticed no noise difference between my Pro with Max Tow and the Lariat Demo I test drove that didn't have it.

Regarding the Max Tow package: The Max Tow Package adds another compressor to the cooling loop. This additional compressor isolates the cabin/climate controls from the battery and motor in the cooling loop. By isolating the climate in the truck from the rest of the cooling loop, it (in theory)...

I like your Mach-E

? Good luck. I hope it's something simple. I've had no issues since the update for what it's worth.

Exactly. This is why fuel tax no longer makes sense, IMO. Now, this program has 2 types of reporting. Manual reporting (submit a photo of your mileage monthly), or automated reporting which I do. I read the fine print and verified how the data was and wasn't being used. While I know nothing is...

https://www.azuga.com/programs/orego For anyone interested in looking into it.

I see what you're saying, but I don't want my rates going up. A 0%-100% charge at home costs me $7. $7 for 240 miles. What my state is doing, and I'm participating in, is charging me for actual mileage driven in my state instead of the $800 registration fee. It auto charges me and is roughly...

Not anymore on the Lightning. Only vehicles under $50k.

Oregon registration fees for a new EV are over $800. Your state isn't the only one. They have to make money back because you aren't paying the fuel tax. It's not a punishment.

Yeah. I have the bare bones 6 speaker system on the Pro. The tweeters were receiving a full range signal from the head unit (the signal is spliced together at the door connection). The Pro's (and I assume XLT) head unit only outputs 4 channels for the 6 speakers (from the research I have done)...

Not sure to be honest, even if it did I needed the remote wire to also turn on the Keyloc and the sub. The custom wire harness I acquired had a built in fuse tap for the remote wire, so I didn't have to pull extra wire. I just had to locate the correct fuse to use. That wire harness included...

Reset the code, power cycle the truck, see if code returns...

Finished my Securicode install this weekend when I installed new speakers in the front doors. Fishing that wire through was an absolute pain, and I also dropped a screw in the door which I had to fish out (careful when attaching the new trim piece, every screw hole for the trim is directly over...

For what it's worth, I'm sure there are some members on this forum with an extra front license plate bracket.

I finished my Audio Build this weekend on my 6 speaker Pro. Got stuck on what fuse to use to switch the amp on/off with Push Start. Most of the obvious ones stayed on all the time. Fuse 37 (unused) was what I finally settled on. I installed an Infinity component system up front and replaced...

Glad everyone is ok. Hopefully the bill isn't too bad.

I appreciate the heads up. I will probably bypass that area, hook up my crossover before it, and run a new wire up to the tweeter. Knowing that the tweeter is receiving the full range signal though was what I needed to know. Now I can tap into that wire anywhere along it for my crossover...

Much appreciated!

Thank you for this! Am I interpreting this correctly that the tweeter recieves the full frequency range? Also, do we know where that splice is?