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12V battery replacement poll

Will you replace your 12V battery proactively or when it fails?


  • Total voters
    83

hturnerfamily

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22 LIGHTNING PRO IcedBlueSilver 8/23/2022
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While I've no issues with my ~40+month original LVB battery, with a truck build date of July 22, and probably the battery itself built several months before that, my recent 'red ring of death' non-chargeable issue made me consider the LVB as a potential culprit - or, at least I had hoped it would be that simple.

I was forced the remove almost everything from the frunk - wow! who would've thought you could hoard -away that much junk! Tools, emergency items, charge EVSE and cables, adapters, a folding chair, and more... : )

I removed the sliding door cover to the LVB, although I also realized now that I could have saved myself some time and convenience by simply using the external 'jumper' studs...anyway, I applied my trickle-charger's alligator clips to the primary battery terminal bolts(not the accessory terminals), and plugged in the charger. While I don't have a battery voltage checker, I felt like the battery showing 'Charging' would be an indicator, and I would then let it charge for several hours, or until 'full', if it was low...

after a while, I tried plugging in my EVSE again - no go. Still the red-ring.

The LVB was still charging. The small trickle-charger only has a 'blinking' Green light as a charging indicator.

I then set out to take a picture of the LVB battery size/type, and use that to research a replacement, as I imagined that this would be the answer to my charging woes. Even if not, with the truck over 3 years 'young', and over 62,000 miles, it was 'time', anyway...
FoMoCo BHAGM-H3 12V 35Ah 60RC

Well, I quickly found that no 'in-stock' options lie in the local area, from the typical sources, and even the Ford dealer had none. I then set out to contact my selling dealer, instead, as I was heading back down south near that location the next day, anyway, in my wife's car. Nope, none there, either, although they put me onto another dealer, within 25 miles from me, who DID have it in stock, and, I might add, at the much lower attractive price, versus what some online sources had quoted. $132 vs $200 or more. All of the online sources also add a nice big 'shipping' cost, too., and how would you then also receive your 'core charge' credit? Who knows... because....

Since the local Ford dealer could get me in that day, I let them also do a diagnosis, planning that it was really only the LVB as the real issue. It was not.. as they could immediately and clearly see, thru the truck's data, that the LVB was just fine, and actually at 97% capacity. The HVB, though, was where the issue lie - module 7, cell 63, was at about 3.8volts, versus all others at about 4.8, or something like that. That module replacement is a different story for another time : ) but, successful, I might add.

So, in the end, I still don't have a 'new' LVB, and, well, until it starts to give me fits, it will continue to serve me until then... I have a follow-up module replacement APPOINTMENT on Tuesday, to check coolant levels, AND the LVB status, just in case. A tire rotation can't hurt, too.

yes, I could simply go out and get that replacement LVB, put it in the bed, and ride around with it as my 'backup', until needed... but, then, the warranty period would start at that purchase date, rather than when you actually start using it. Oh well. Hard choices.
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Lytning

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Prev: 2000 SVT Lightning; Now: 2022 BEV Lightning
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On an associated 12 volt battery topic ... I am curious what others have seen regarding the charging current to their 12 volt battery. Using the Car Scanner app on CarPlay, I recorded 43 amps. On another short trip, which I did not record, I seem to remember 72 amps. Has anyone else recorded or observed their charging 12 volt charging amps?
 

mr.Magoo

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