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Storm Breaker

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i like this look. nice and rugged. i was trying to figure out what route to take for mine. we have a winner. fairly inexpensive?
 

VictorM

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That’s my plan
 

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Creative idea. I like it!
 

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Ok but does it still kill bugs by the 1000's? And if so is it easier to clean?
 

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Jonny Hotnuts

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i like this look. nice and rugged. i was trying to figure out what route to take for mine. we have a winner. fairly inexpensive?
I asked, 'How much would this typically cost someone.' (I get a volume discount.)

It would be fairly safe to assume it would set a person back somewhere in the 150$ range. Note: THis was the standard Line-X coating. This shop does not do the Line-X 'Ultra'.


Ok but does it still kill bugs by the 1000's? And if so is it easier to clean?

Mr. Pressure Washer is your friend. But thankfully for me, bugs don't exist in Oregon.

~C
 

csukoh78

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Did they have to sand all the little nicks and crannies or did you just go for it
 

TheJackel2013

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Thank you OP. Was thinking about getting this done because the gloss Platnium grill on my truck looks like it’s gone 200,000 miles instead of 20,000. The gloss finish seems even more fragile than the Lariat/XLT grey plastic
 

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I had my previous truck (Toyota Tacoma) fully coated with Line-X in 2019, and it was the best decision for my use. Cost me $6k and took 3 days, nothing hurt that truck and 20 minuets with a pressure washer was all that was needed to remove anything that ended up on the outside. Love the look and am going to swing by my Line-X shop to ask about doing the grill too!
 

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seanocono

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20231004_154614.jpg


20231004_154630.jpg


Had my buddy at Line-X shoot the grill. I thought the gray plastic looked too much like . . . gray plastic.

BTW:
I just hosed it off. It looks better dry and in some decent light.
Thanks for sharing. I’ve been thinking about doing a Line-X Ultra grille, too, so I’m glad to learn that it’s a simple process.

Whenever you have some time, do you mind posting some photos with a dry grille in some decent light? Thank you.
 
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Jonny Hotnuts

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Thanks for sharing. I’ve been thinking about doing a Line-X Ultra grille, too, so I’m glad to learn that it’s a simple process.

Whenever you have some time, do you mind posting some photos with a dry grille in some decent light? Thank you.

I wanted to take a pic with some sunlight but it's been overcast in PDX for the last few.

I to
Ford F-150 Lightning Line-X Sprayed Grill 387220219_10228731319763913_9144323885497573320rill_n
I

I took one today but it's not much different than the others; in fact it needs a good wash after a wax (white tears on the grill). I'll see what I can do once the sun comes (*if it ever does).

~C
 

seanocono

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I wanted to take a pic with some sunlight but it's been overcast in PDX for the last few.

I to
387220219_10228731319763913_9144323885497573320rill_n.jpg
I

I took one today but it's not much different than the others; in fact it needs a good wash after a wax (white tears on the grill). I'll see what I can do once the sun comes (*if it ever does).

~C
Thank you for posting. The grille looks great. Is that a Sinister steel bumper, too?

What are your impressions of the bumper?
 
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Jonny Hotnuts

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Thank you for posting. The grille looks great. Is that a Sinister steel bumper, too?

What are your impressions of the bumper?
It is the sinister bumper. It is aluminum, not steel.

Good:
-Build quality and fit and finish are exceptional.
-Looks great.
-Lightweight (compared to OEM and the stuff you remove.)

Bad:
-Zero instructions. This was a problem. You can get away with this with a normal truck without radar, tons of sensors, active air dams etc. But our trucks are loaded and tricky. But even things like how it is necessary to modify the oem sensor cups to accommodate the thicker aluminum wasn't hard, but required a level of creative thinking and fabrication skills. Some (*any) direction this would have saved hours of research and trial and error.
-The bumper has a design flaw. It's an easy fix but something they should correct in production. (Note the exposed radar sensor in the picture) This is located behind the laser-cut grill/plastic panel. The problem is they used nuts on the back of the panel. There is no (like none) egress to access the back of the nuts while the bumper is installed. MEANING it is impossible to adjust (or even install) the radar sensor without this panel removed. The correct thing to do from a production standpoint would have been to tap the flange thread and allow the screws to be removed from the front without requiring a nut for retention. Piece of cake, right? BUt now I am forced to get some slightly larger retainers and perform this mod.
-No front license plate provisions. I'll figure something out.
-Rear bumper is not available yet.





The install . . . without instructions . . . woof. But I have devised a method for radar sensor alignment that has worked perfectly and didn't even require a recalibrate with forscan. All systems tested working (prox and Bluecruse) first attempt. How often does that ever happen!?

Overall . . . It's awesome. But there is no doubt I will lose a few miles per charge at high-speed driving. (*And honestly do not think the weight savings will have any real difference on low speed. It will help some but so will removing the useless spare tire.) But I dont give two poops about a few miles range. You don't install something like this concerned about squeezing every last mile out of it.

~C


Also note:
I will be happy to answer any questions on how to install this bumper if anyone else has the stones to try it.
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