Telemachus
Well-known member
Yup.So just straight glued the camera to the grill? Simple.
Survived a hot SoCal summer with no issues
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Yup.So just straight glued the camera to the grill? Simple.
Do you have a picture with how well it lined up with the 360 camera?I used marine Goop (Amazon) and glued it to the back of the grill--Camera is only $100, so I was fine with gluing it. I would just worry about hot glue and heat/weather over time. The goop seals better also for weather proofing. I'm in Ohio, so road salt is also an issue. I replaced all hardware with stainless steel. After 1 week, the fasteners that came with were already rusting--China junk. That was in summer. Can't imagine what salt would do. I listed the hardware part numbers below. Just bought them from Mcmaster Carr. I also ran the LED power wires through the factory loom. Took a few extra minutes, and a cleaner install.
The camera is slightly to the right on grill to hide it under the "O". Functionally, it works great.
Phillips Rounded Head Screws for Sheet Metal
18-8 Stainless Steel, Number 7 Screw Size, 1-1/4" Long
Mcmaster PN 92470A391 (pack of 100)
18-8 Stainless Steel Oversized Washer (use 2 per hole for thickness)
for Number 10 Screw Size, 0.203" ID, 1" OD, 0.033"-0.047" Thick
90313A104 (pack of 50)
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I have a better idea.but same - bumper is not visible then
Maybe there is a way adding some lens extension or add a fisheye lens. There are a few on Amazon.
As an idea - remove the lense, 3D print some tube and use one of the Amazon lenses. Challenging part will be finding the right one with the best focal length that does not change the picture to much but gives a sharp picture. Maybe there is even one that has a different focal length.
Like this one: Amazon
That Goop ain't going nowhere, LOL.I used marine Goop (Amazon) and glued it to the back of the grill--Camera is only $100, so I was fine with gluing it. I would just worry about hot glue and heat/weather over time. The goop seals better also for weather proofing. I'm in Ohio, so road salt is also an issue. I replaced all hardware with stainless steel. After 1 week, the fasteners that came with were already rusting--China junk. That was in summer. Can't imagine what salt would do. I listed the hardware part numbers below. Just bought them from Mcmaster Carr. I also ran the LED power wires through the factory loom. Took a few extra minutes, and a cleaner install.
The camera is slightly to the right on grill to hide it under the "O". Functionally, it works great.
Phillips Rounded Head Screws for Sheet Metal
18-8 Stainless Steel, Number 7 Screw Size, 1-1/4" Long
Mcmaster PN 92470A391 (pack of 100)
18-8 Stainless Steel Oversized Washer (use 2 per hole for thickness)
for Number 10 Screw Size, 0.203" ID, 1" OD, 0.033"-0.047" Thick
90313A104 (pack of 50)
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I don't think anybody's 3D printed solutions were really helpful. The honeycomb is deep enough to create issues with the camera, and you're never going to quite get the original angle.The recent F-150 Lightning cancellation announcement finally got me to act on this project - I figure with no more trucks coming, a camera-friendly option isn't likely to show up. That means I better do it myself - it's good to see so many successes in this thread. Any of you who did the 3D-printing method - will you please share your designs? I'd love to be able to "stand on the shoulders of giants," so to speak. Thanks!
Makes sense, I can always cut a bigger hole later.I don't think anybody's 3D printed solutions were really helpful. The honeycomb is deep enough to create issues with the camera, and you're never going to quite get the original angle.
Personally I recommend cutting as small of a hole as you can, and then angling the camera and tacking it on with hot glue. See how you like it.
If you get to the point where you're comfortable where it is, cover the camera with some saran wrap, and making epoxy harness to hold it in place.
Thanks, that looks neat. No links there either as far as I can tell though. I'll DM this guy.
Best solution I have seen, take two honeycombs...