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lSherlockl

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Hello,

Been a lurker long enough and figured its time to start contributing :) bear with me adding content here in stages

This will likely be a living evolving post I don't have all the answers just yet so bear with me, but I plan to come back and keep the first 1-2 messages documenting the whole thing. I wanted a OEM or as close to OEM solution as I could really to get heated seats (I'm from WI so really its kinda a must for winter and efficiency) got a pretty decent deal on a full set of heated cooled seats

Base Vehicle:
I have a 2022 Pro, tow tech, maxx tow packages (so it has the 360 cams likely one of the key packages that may impact wiring harness)

Stock Seat Harness:
Driver Side:
Ford F-150 Lightning 2022 Lightning Pro Seat Swap/Upgrade to Heated/Cooled 1693320825095

Passenger side:
Ford F-150 Lightning 2022 Lightning Pro Seat Swap/Upgrade to Heated/Cooled 1693324192964


C265: (may be necessary to touch for additional wires)
Ford F-150 Lightning 2022 Lightning Pro Seat Swap/Upgrade to Heated/Cooled 1693324295549


Fuse Box:
Ford F-150 Lightning 2022 Lightning Pro Seat Swap/Upgrade to Heated/Cooled 1693320922286


Ford F-150 Lightning 2022 Lightning Pro Seat Swap/Upgrade to Heated/Cooled 1693322125601

Related Fuses:
  • F31 30A Passenger Power Seat
  • F38 40A Climate control Module
  • F30 40A Driver Seat Module
  • F48 20A Rear Heated Seat Module (not req)
  • F134 25A Driver multi-contour seat (i don't think req)
All present, and accounted for

Also of note my 22 pro has wires present for the adaptive cruise here (just for anyone else's reference)

Donor Seats:
Come from actually a F150 lightning with 8 miles not entirely sure the trim but assume lariat, from a online seller oemcarandtruckseats.com have to say excellent job on shipping and they include the male side of the harness with about a foot of cord at least with these seats so have wires I could probably splice and shift to the stock plugs.

Ford F-150 Lightning 2022 Lightning Pro Seat Swap/Upgrade to Heated/Cooled 1693324920585

Ford F-150 Lightning 2022 Lightning Pro Seat Swap/Upgrade to Heated/Cooled 1693324957414

Ford F-150 Lightning 2022 Lightning Pro Seat Swap/Upgrade to Heated/Cooled 1693324987242


I'm also here making the assumption that the male plugs from the original vehicle tell me exactly what I need to feed to make the seats full operational.

Driver Side:
Ford F-150 Lightning 2022 Lightning Pro Seat Swap/Upgrade to Heated/Cooled 1693324334721


Passenger Side:
Ford F-150 Lightning 2022 Lightning Pro Seat Swap/Upgrade to Heated/Cooled 1693324345980


HVAC Module:
Need a new HVAC module to support heated/cooled seats. Honestly I picked this up before when i grabbed a leather wheel to one day get heated wheel working (going to do at the same time as the seats in theory)

part No. ML3Z-19980-K
it also was around a hundred bucks the other hvac controls with just like heated seats and heated wheel were much more expensive I believe, which also lent me to consider going for the cooled seats as would have the buttons for them more economically.

Ford F-150 Lightning 2022 Lightning Pro Seat Swap/Upgrade to Heated/Cooled 1693324317160


Wiring Documentation:
Sorry excel is my tool or choice, got both driver and passenger plugs pretty much fully documented highlighted in red is the potential problem areas completely absent wires etc. Yellow is mostly to denote its fine these are mostly just feeds from driver seat to passenger seat or existing wires with a unknown purpose.

I have added in part numbers from ford for their factory pigtails, as well as mouser part numbers for what I believe after a lot of digging are the crimped on parts. Which I am almost positive are Aptiv (formerly Delphi) apex 2.8 series male and female terminals for the larger middle row of connectors and Yazaki 1.5mm terminals for the smaller outside sections (note here im not 100% sure just closes in style and referenced on a few spec sheets) Aptiv, Molex, and TE all seem to make terminals in this range but only the Yazaki seemed to have the same profile and bump out in the back plus they were super cheap in comparison so figured was worth the try.

Also uploaded a Zip doc with all the plug pinouts so you can see how the pins are numbered

Front seats summary (see attached doc for details)
need two wires to medium speed can bus network to driver seat, plan currently is to tapp into that near glovebox
1 wire from c265 to driver seat male side of c265 is populated
8 wires from driver to passenger seat basically for all the controls

Rear seat summary (see attached doc for details, tab 2)
here the game plan is to make a custom harness as the rear seat doesn't really need canbus or communication to anything really its 6 communication wires from the switch assembly (switch assembly also needs power and ground to operate) in the console to the seat module + 2 wires from C265 and the fuse panel in the pass kick panel + 2 ground

So here I plan to make a small custom harness with the aid of the pigtail connector for the witch unit in the console, tap into the two power lines needed for the switch (just for illumination/basic operation i think) then the 6 output lines to the rear seat module I will add a third party plug and place it near the other console plugs something like a deutsch so console still can easily separate from floor. Run the two wires from the kick panel area along pass door frame and cross along existing wire routes meet up with the 6 communication wires near console, under drivers seat and then along driver side frame to back seat. run the 2 additional grounds for back seat to nearest common ground


its also important to note, now im not 100% sure but it does entirely look like the stock wire harness has everything you would need for powered heated seats (its cooled that require all the extra work)

The Plan:

Pull all the seats and center console out lift or pull back part of floor to get easy access to stock wire routing. Use heat shrink based butt splices together for new runs using the two male plugs included with this seat set adding to existing male plugs. Or i have aquired all the pins i need i could just crimp onto my new wires and skip splicing, sort of up in the air on which method is easier.

Advantage of crimping new wire is I have complete old plugs for reference, but I didn't get color coded wire so would have to be on top of labeling.

Wrap and route along the existing harness.


To Do's:
  • order all wire, parts crimps etc
  • finalize rear seat wiring plans mainly source power for the console switch and one pin for the front kick panel. This likely will be done when working on it.
  • Figure out for scan changes (should be all hvac module I believe for seats)
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lSherlockl

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Reserving for additional write up, most likely this will cover actual steps/pics of the process
 
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Maxx

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Any concern that software updates may think you don't have the heated and cool seat due to your VIN and screw up something with your new HVAC module?
 

petemill

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Are you using the interactive wiring feature of the Service section of https://www.motorcraftservice.com/ ? It's very good and $22 for 3 days access. You can trace every pin to every source. It was extremely helpful when I had to modify my seat harness to add the Power Running Boards and the headrest speakers.
 
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lSherlockl

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Any concern that software updates may think you don't have the heated and cool seat due to your VIN and screw up something with your new HVAC module?
I don't think ford would push a OTA that reprograms the HVAC module, Someone could correct me but I don't think they really do the module programming that we do in the like of forscan over the air. For instance keyless entry you even have to fully flash the firmware of the door module no way they are going to revert or push that over the air. In any case if they do i still have forscan and could program it back. though im betting minimal risk using all OEM parts and *wiring* as designed.


Are you using the interactive wiring feature of the Service section of https://www.motorcraftservice.com/ ? It's very good and $22 for 3 days access. You can trace every pin to every source. It was extremely helpful when I had to modify my seat harness to add the Power Running Boards and the headrest speakers.
That's a good thought and i may end up doing. I have a friend that works at ford that was able to pull some of the diagrams for me, but I still may need to get a subscription to clean up my loose ends.
 

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lSherlockl

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Ford F-150 Lightning 2022 Lightning Pro Seat Swap/Upgrade to Heated/Cooled 1693334366577


oof that turned out more blurry than i thought but plug lower left and control box center are found on the left rear back of the bench seat (behind driver) is that the heated seat plug for rear bench or is it something perhaps audio related i know higher trims have a sub behind the seat.

I didn't however really see a connector that would go between the two wide bench to the single seat other than what looked like the buckle/occupancy sensor but i could have missed somethign tucked in the fabric.

just determining if i should bother looking into it further.
 

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Definitely following, this is a super interesting project!
 

petemill

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1693334366577.jpeg


oof that turned out more blurry than i thought but plug lower left and control box center are found on the left rear back of the bench seat (behind driver) is that the heated seat plug for rear bench or is it something perhaps audio related i know higher trims have a sub behind the seat.

I didn't however really see a connector that would go between the two wide bench to the single seat other than what looked like the buckle/occupancy sensor but i could have missed somethign tucked in the fabric.

just determining if i should bother looking into it further.
It's for seat heating. There are no audio connectors in the rear seats. The amplifier and subwoofer are behind the rear seat back, but not connected. The heater controls are on the back of the main center console.
 

jdmackes

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I'd be interested to see if the new HVAC controls will activate the heated steering wheel (if you end up getting one). I can't get mine to activate no matter what I do, although I haven't tried anything in the last few months.
 
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lSherlockl

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I'd be interested to see if the new HVAC controls will activate the heated steering wheel (if you end up getting one). I can't get mine to activate no matter what I do, although I haven't tried anything in the last few months.
do you have the wires ran and the proper clockspring for the heated wheel, along with the necessary forscan changes?
 

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jdmackes

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do you have the wires ran and the proper clockspring for the heated wheel, along with the necessary forscan changes?
Yup, changes made no difference. I could get the button to show up on the screen but it was greyed out and couldn't be activated
 

jdmackes

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oh you don't have a new hvac control with a physical button?
Nope, didn't upgrade that. Didn't want to do that unless I could get the cooled seats and the rear defrost on the truck, figured that adding the software button would be fine but I couldn't get it to work when I messed with it. I may end up getting the HVAC controls though, but last I checked they had jumped from around $150 to over $400
 

ChrisC

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I am also a lurker but I want the Massage seats on my Lariat that I think is only available on the Platinum :cry:
 
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lSherlockl

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Quick Update check original Post for more detail on wiring and updated spreadsheet coming pretty close to having all wiring sorted

front seats pretty straight forward, 3 wires from the passenger kick panel, 2 would use taps for canbus and then slot a new plug into C265 (which will be nasty to access) everything else is wire runs from seat to seat or seat to common ground point.

made some good progress on figuring out the rear seat setup, and really the easiest method seems to be a custom harness vs trying to swap out harnesses etc, may be possible that console is wired for the rear heated switch but I will only know that if I tear it down. but still the lack of wiring harness to the rear means custom harness run from console to there will just be the easiest and cheapest option.

Think i will just use a common wire color for most of my rework and rely on the spliced ends to indicate circuit and or wire labels in the case of new runs
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