Dashcam issues

[Rafis29]

In other news, I think I found something that works. I didn’t want to “tap” the mirror. Mostly because I didn’t want to potentially effect the cameras up there.

Reading through the manual I realized that the fuse box by the passenger footwell contained spare/unused fuses. I pick one of the 5amp ones (#35 on the diagram, pages 432-435).

I bought a dashcam fuse hardwire kit that uses two wires. Pretty simple plug and play. The ground wire has a easy/convenient screw nearby. Also the wires running up the door trim and window edge mostly are hidden.

I chose fuse #35 because It was not powered up while “off” or when “charging” (as confirmed by my light up tester) and because the camera only needs 1amp. So the 5amp fuse is perfect.

As a personal choice, I only want my dash cam to run while I’m driving. The device does have the option to plug into a fuse that is always powered…I suppose it’s meant to shut off after it depletes your battery a preset amount. I’m not trying to mess with that tho. If you wanted that feature you could find an “always on” fuse I guess.

The OBD plug I had before seemed to reset all the time while driving or when I plugged in to charge. it was wonky, so I’m glad this finally worked.

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[Sam James]

Subscriptions are a HUGE no for me. The day that Ford,or any manufacturer, implements “BMW heated seat subscriptions” I’m dropping them.

Agreed on the ridiculous heated seat subscriptions, for sure. If Ford argued they'd want to bundle sentry-mode into a subscription package because of uploads to the cloud, then I'd grumble and still probably pony up for the ability to remotely check in or download backups of video.

Thanks for keeping us updated on your findings! Hoping you have it all figured out before I take delivery!

 

[Firestop]

In other news, I think I found something that works. I didn’t want to “tap” the mirror. Mostly because I didn’t want to potentially effect the cameras up there.

Reading through the manual I realized that the fuse box by the passenger footwell contained spare/unused fuses. I pick one of the 5amp ones (#35 on the diagram, pages 432-435).

I bought a dashcam fuse hardwire kit that uses two wires. Pretty simple plug and play. The ground wire has a easy/convenient screw nearby. Also the wires running up the door trim and window edge mostly are hidden.

I chose fuse #35 because It was not powered up while “off” or when “charging” (as confirmed by my light up tester) and because the camera only needs 1amp. So the 5amp fuse is perfect.

As a personal choice, I only want my dash cam to run while I’m driving. The device does have the option to plug into a fuse that is always powered…I suppose it’s meant to shut off after it depletes your battery a preset amount. I’m not trying to mess with that tho. If you wanted that feature you could find an “always on” fuse I guess.

The OBD plug I had before seemed to reset all the time while driving or when I plugged in to charge. it was wonky, so I’m glad this finally worked.

Which kit did you purchase?

 

[Roy2001]

Which kit did you purchase?

Your signature shows 7/11 shipped and 8/2-8/8 delivery ETA. Why it takes so long?

 

[Firestop]

Your signature shows 7/11 shipped and 8/2-8/8 delivery ETA. Why it takes so long?

Not sure…here is a link to my latest location-related post on the NW Deliveries thread…the best I can tell is I’m currently somewhere in the west Chicago metro area on a BNSF rail line:

https://www.f150lightningforum.com/forum/threads/nw-deliveries.10702/post-230019

BNSF only provides tracing info to their business account holders, so…I have to hope I’m in the same grouping of rail cars as others on this forum with access to alternate means of tracking

 

[SmokingtheMeats]

Subscriptions are a HUGE no for me. The day that Ford,or any manufacturer, implements “BMW heated seat subscriptions” I’m dropping them.

What will you do when it's the majority of them in a few years? That's the way the world is trending at this point.

 

[Rafis29]

Which kit did you purchase?

 

[Rafis29]

What will you do when it's the majority of them in a few years? That's the way the world is trending at this point.

I agree but for now I can only vote with my dollar. Same with Netflix. When those ads hit, I’m canceling on principle.

 

[Firestop]

Thanks, that was the exact item Inwas considering…nice to get an “in-forum-ed” review …. Thanks!

 

[Rafis29]

Thanks, that was the exact item Inwas considering…nice to get an “in-forum-ed” review …. Thanks!

Just as a tip. I did plug both the original 5amp fuse and the kit provided 5amp fuse into the “port” of the red wire. Both fuses faced “up” in the port when the red wire itself was facing to the right.

 

[XLT Jeffy]

Not sure…here is a link to my latest location-related post on the NW Deliveries thread…the best I can tell is I’m currently somewhere in the west Chicago metro area on a BNSF rail line:

https://www.f150lightningforum.com/forum/threads/nw-deliveries.10702/post-230019

BNSF only provides tracing info to their business account holders, so…I have to hope I’m in the same grouping of rail cars as others on this forum with access to alternate means of tracking

If you find someone to track BNSF let me know! I'm on railcar BNSF301094 and having no luck on tracking so far.

 

[PopsGG]

Just as a tip. I did plug both the original 5amp fuse and the kit provided 5amp fuse into the “port” of the red wire. Both fuses faced “up” in the port when the red wire itself was facing to the right.

Great info and pictures thanks. I will be adding a hardwired dashcam today. Do you happen to know which fuse is always on?

 

[Rafis29]

Great info and pictures thanks. I will be adding a hardwired dashcam today. Do you happen to know which fuse is always on?

No. I bought a tester from harbor freight for like $3. The tops of the fuses have Tiny holes, when you pick at them with the tester it will light up. Test the truck when it’s off. If it lights up, then it’s “always on”. I’d shoot for one of the listed “spares” but you might have to tap into an existing non safety related fuse.

 

[BzzzzztZapPow]

No. I bought a tester from harbor freight for like $3. The tops of the fuses have Tiny holes, when you pick at them with the tester it will light up. Test the truck when it’s off. If it lights up, then it’s “always on”. I’d shoot for one of the listed “spares” but you might have to tap into an existing non safety related fuse.

I used 19/20 in the body control module fuse box. Headlamp & Start switch.

 

[GDN]

A lot of it depends upon the processing power available to the truck's systems, storage speeds, and what the camera subsystems are able to do. Displaying real-time camera information while parking is pretty easy to do - handling multiple frames, efficiently encoding them into a video file, and getting them onto flash storage at speed are a bit more difficult.

I do love that feature in the Tesla, and I hope that Ford would at least have some foresight to design it in, but perhaps that's just a cost too much for them if they're using lower-powered processors or slower flash. Choice of operating systems can also make a difference, if they have to write a lot of code to get there.

After having the truck for a week and a half I'm very convinced internal dash cams will never happen. This system doesn't have enough speed and power to boot up and get out of its own way.

At start up you want to give it some time before you start pressing icons - it will lag and just hang a few seconds - then it will try to catch up with what you pressed last. Multiple times I've received a message "Process Interrupted. Please try again. Avoid using your vehicle until the process completes." That is really reassuring.

In 4 years with two Teslas never one time did a screen lag or not respond immediately and do exactly what I asked it to do.

We are barely scraping the barrel with the specs they put in this thing. Either that or the code is just that bad.

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