I converted my Lightning from AWD to a 4x4

[HI Zeus]

Nice rig, I am still figuring out if I can use the F150 winch box and fab it to replace the front tow hooks and I used tough country UCA and Bilstein 2.5 inch front, with Raptor wheels. Tires I went with were 305/70/17. I did nothing with the rear, Im thinking the expedition has same bolt pattern for the strut and if so I want to go with the bilstein’s in the rear as-well

I didn't look specifically at using the ICE F150 winch mounting, but from pictures I looked at I pretty well ruled it out due to the location of the intake for the cooling system. It seems like it will fill in the entire space. (About 3" higher than my setup I think.)

My setup definitely blocks it a bit, but I'm comfortable with the electric fan running it is a non-issue. Overall the winch still sits a bit lower than I would like for both aesthetic and approach-angle purposes, but I think it splits the difference well between those two things and blocking the air intake too much. Theoretically I could remove the winch, being mounted via a 2" hitch, but I'd have to make a couple of quick disconnects on the cables right at the winch, and am not sure its worth it, plus then I'd have to store it in the frunk.

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[dr1983]

I didn't look specifically at using the ICE F150 winch mounting, but from pictures I looked at I pretty well ruled it out due to the location of the intake for the cooling system. It seems like it will fill in the entire space. (About 3" higher than my setup I think.)

My setup definitely blocks it a bit, but I'm comfortable with the electric fan running it is a non-issue. Overall the winch still sits a bit lower than I would like for both aesthetic and approach-angle purposes, but I think it splits the difference well between those two things and blocking the air intake too much. Theoretically I could remove the winch, being mounted via a 2" hitch, but I'd have to make a couple of quick disconnects on the cables right at the winch, and am not sure its worth it, plus then I'd have to store it in the frunk.

post: 548153, member: 21028"]
I didn't look specifically at using the ICE F150 winch mounting, but from pictures I looked at I pretty well ruled it out due to the location of the intake for the cooling system. It seems like it will fill in the entire space. (About 3" higher than my setup I think.)

My setup definitely blocks it a bit, but I'm comfortable with the electric fan running it is a non-issue. Overall the winch still sits a bit lower than I would like for both aesthetic and approach-angle purposes, but I think it splits the difference well between those two things and blocking the air intake too much. Theoretically I could remove the winch, being mounted via a 2" hitch, but I'd have to make a couple of quick disconnects on the cables right at the winch, and am not sure its worth it, plus then I'd have to store it in the frunk.
[/QUOTE]


thanks for the info maybe put it a lil higher, did you just hook it to your 12 volt battery

 

[HI Zeus]

Like that color blue. What is the name of it?
A/T tires are a must for a truck.

Technically these are mud terrains, M/Ts, not A/Ts . I like them not only for the aggressive mud design, but mostly because of the way the tire conforms to rocky surfaces much better when aired down. BFG placed the reinforcing fibers/cables in the tire differently than any other tire currently made to accomplish this. It creates a longer oval footprint rather than the typical circular or wide oval that other tires produce . I can't wait to get it out on the trails and give them a good workout!!

Being M/Ts, I definitely hear the tires, but I don't feel it is objectionable at all. It actually kind of sounds like it could be the electric motors.

 

[jeep2liberty]

I didn't realize the difference between A/T and M/T tires. Thanks for the note.

Ahhh, what was that color name of your truck.?

 

[HI Zeus]

post: 548153, member: 21028"]
I didn't look specifically at using the ICE F150 winch mounting, but from pictures I looked at I pretty well ruled it out due to the location of the intake for the cooling system. It seems like it will fill in the entire space. (About 3" higher than my setup I think.)

My setup definitely blocks it a bit, but I'm comfortable with the electric fan running it is a non-issue. Overall the winch still sits a bit lower than I would like for both aesthetic and approach-angle purposes, but I think it splits the difference well between those two things and blocking the air intake too much. Theoretically I could remove the winch, being mounted via a 2" hitch, but I'd have to make a couple of quick disconnects on the cables right at the winch, and am not sure its worth it, plus then I'd have to store it in the frunk.

thanks for the info maybe put it a lil higher, did you just hook it to your 12 volt battery
[/QUOTE]


No, I think that the OEM 12V battery is way too small, so will put in a deep cycle (probably Optima) battery. Ive decided to place it in the "cooler" part of the frunk since I don't actually anticipate using that as such, and it was very handy to route the cables through the drain hole.

 

[HI Zeus]

I didn't realize the difference between A/T and M/T tires. Thanks for the note.

Ahhh, what was that color name of your truck.?

Antimatter Blue, It looks black in low light, but when the sun hits it you get the nice iridescent blues. My only gripe about it is the higher need to keep it clean. Its as bad, or worse, as the two black cars I've owned and said "never again".

 

[jeep2liberty]

Yes, it looks nearly black at times. Thanks for clarifying that.

 

[HI Zeus]

Shoot, I just remembered:

I meant to let people know that with the 1" spacers and OEM wheels you have to shorten the rear wheel studs by 1/4"!

Its not super obvious because as you tighten the bolts on the un-shortened studs they bottom out on the back of the wheel, so it looks feels "done", but obviously this leaves the wheel not properly seated.

It is not an issue for the front wheels, I think this is because the front rotors are thicker by a 1/4".

I debated about cutting the studs for a few weeks (driving with spacers on the front but not rear), and then decided if the bolt length was long enough for the front wheels there wasn't any harm in shortening them to the the same length in the rear.

I hope this reaches anyone considering the 1" spacers and OEM wheels!

I am also going to contact the spacer manufacturer about this.

 

[Brent@ANParts]

Looks great! I gotta say this must have been a lot easier than when I converted my FWD car to AWD!

 

[dr1983]

Shoot, I just remembered:

I meant to let people know that with the 1" spacers and OEM wheels you have to shorten the rear wheel studs by 1/4"!

Its not super obvious because as you tighten the bolts on the un-shortened studs they bottom out on the back of the wheel, so it looks feels "done", but obviously this leaves the wheel not properly seated.

It is not an issue for the front wheels, I think this is because the front rotors are thicker by a 1/4".

I debated about cutting the studs for a few weeks (driving with spacers on the front but not rear), and then decided if the bolt length was long enough for the front wheels there wasn't any harm in shortening them to the the same length in the rear.

I hope this reaches anyone considering the 1" spacers and OEM wheels!

I am also going to contact the spacer manufacturer about this.

I have 1.5” on mine and had to cut mine down and been that way for a year with no problems

 

[HI Zeus]

I have 1.5” on mine and had to cut mine down and been that way for a year with no problems

Your response confused me because I only had to trim a 1/4" of the studs for the 1" wheel spacers, so 1.5" wheel spacer should not have required any cutting, so I went back to some of our earlier correspondence. Apparently we had a miscommunication here that I want to straighten out for others. (Correct me if I get this all wrong please)

Previously you told me you did the 1.5" leveling puck up front with 1" wheel spacers (that is what gave me idea/confidence to do the OEM wheels and spacers on my truck).

At the time you had said you only put the wheel spacers on the front (which is what I did for a few weeks). When I encountered the fact that the rear studs are 1/4" too long for using the OEM wheels I figured this was why you had only done the front only.

So, I have surmised that you now have the 1.5" leveling up front and 1" wheel spacers on all 4 corners, and that, like me, you had to shorten the rear wheel studs by about 1/4" to make the rear spacers work?

 

[dr1983]

Your response confused me because I only had to trim a 1/4" of the studs for the 1" wheel spacers, so 1.5" wheel spacer should not have required any cutting, so I went back to some of our earlier correspondence. Apparently we had a miscommunication here that I want to straighten out for others. (Correct me if I get this all wrong please)

Previously you told me you did the 1.5" leveling puck up front with 1" wheel spacers (that is what gave me idea/confidence to do the OEM wheels and spacers on my truck).

At the time you had said you only put the wheel spacers on the front (which is what I did for a few weeks). When I encountered the fact that the rear studs are 1/4" too long for using the OEM wheels I figured this was why you had only done the front only.

So, I have surmised that you now have the 1.5" leveling up front and 1" wheel spacers on all 4 corners, and that, like me, you had to shorten the rear wheel studs by about 1/4" to make the rear spacers work?

I have no leveling pucks, I have 2.5 inch lift Bilstein’s from an ICE F150, and yes I had to cut a snibble off like yours. i had to double check but it is 1 inch

 

[dr1983]

I didn't look specifically at using the ICE F150 winch mounting, but from pictures I looked at I pretty well ruled it out due to the location of the intake for the cooling system. It seems like it will fill in the entire space. (About 3" higher than my setup I think.)

My setup definitely blocks it a bit, but I'm comfortable with the electric fan running it is a non-issue. Overall the winch still sits a bit lower than I would like for both aesthetic and approach-angle purposes, but I think it splits the difference well between those two things and blocking the air intake too much. Theoretically I could remove the winch, being mounted via a 2" hitch, but I'd have to make a couple of quick disconnects on the cables right at the winch, and am not sure its worth it, plus then I'd have to store it in the frunk.

I pulled the trigger and the 22 F150 bumper fits right up and has an opening where the shutter box is and I mounted the acc to the mesh screen. works flawlessly and you can add a winch onto the bumper instead of the bar. there is a skid plate and it doesn’t quite bolt to the frame but its solid with the three bolts it comes with, maybe later I will do it up

 

[rembrant]

Nice rig, I am still figuring out if I can use the F150 winch box and fab it to replace the front tow hooks and I used tough country UCA and Bilstein 2.5 inch front, with Raptor wheels. Tires I went with were 305/70/17. I did nothing with the rear, Im thinking the expedition has same bolt pattern for the strut and if so I want to go with the bilstein’s in the rear as-well

Nice wheels. Where did you get the graphics for the front grill? I really like it.

 

[dr1983]

Nice wheels. Where did you get the graphics for the front grill? I really like it.

I believe etsy, its been a minute

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