In the event of a battery fire, what is the fastest, easiest way to drag the truck out of the garage?

[Wendy]

I'm wondering about the guy whose house is downhill from your garage ... here comes a 7,000 Malitave Ford Cocktail!

Sponsored

 

[GoodSam]

neither fire sprinklers nor the FD can contain a 100kWh+ EV fire in a garage......which is why I want to get it outa there in a hurry!

Just ask ChatGPT:

"Got it—here’s a practical, shop-buildable concept for a slide-out, lockable garage floor sized for a Ford F-150 Lightning, so you can pull/push the truck straight outside without touching the transmission.


1) What we’re building (overview)

A flush, drive-on platform that lives where your garage floor is. It rides on two recessed steel rails with high-temperature, sealed steel V-groove wheels. Under normal use it’s locked immovably to the foundation. In an emergency, you release the floor locks, hook a hand winch or vehicle to an exterior anchor, and the entire platform—with the truck on it—slides straight out of the garage onto an exterior apron. No need to put the truck in neutral.

• Target capacity: 12,000 lb (≥1.6x a ~7,200 lb Lightning curb weight), with locking hardware and anchors each rated ≥12,000 lb in shear/tension.
• Footprint (typical 2-car bay): 8 ft (W) × 20 ft (L) platform; rails extend 24–26 ft so the deck can fully clear the door.
• Ride height: Deck surface ends flush with the surrounding slab.

2) Core architecture
A) Rails (recessed and flush)

• Type: 2 parallel steel channels or square tubes hosting welded V-track bars (e.g., 1" wide 90° V track), embedded in trenches cut in the slab.
• Spacing: ~72–74" center-to-center (outside the truck’s wheel tracks) so wheels/axles don’t cross the rails.
• Length: ~25–26 ft (garage depth + a few feet outside).
• Install: Saw-cut 2 trenches ~5–6" wide, ~4–5" deep. Epoxy-anchor the rails to the existing slab with rebar dowels at 24" o.c., then grout with non-shrink grout to bring track tops flush with the garage floor.

B) Carriage deck (the movable floor)

• Frame: Welded rectangular tube perimeter (e.g., 3"×2"×1/4") with crossmembers at 12–16" o.c.
• Decking: 1/4" tread-plate steel or 1-1/8" structural plywood topped with 1/8" steel sheet. (Steel top is durable, heat-tolerant, and accepts wheel chocks.)
• Rollers: 8–12 steel V-groove wheels (2.5–4" dia), sealed bearings, high-temp grease, rated ≥2,000 lb each. Mount in adjustable pillow blocks so they align cleanly on the V-track.
• Guides: Low-friction side guides (UHMW wear strips against a vertical flat on the rail) to prevent racking.

C) Locks (fail-safe, positive)

Use four independent lock points (two per side):

• Primary: Spring-loaded retractable steel pins (1" dia) that shear-lock the deck into sleeves epoxied into the slab. Actuate from a single waist-height handle near the door (Bowden-cable or rod linkage) so you can release without bending down.
• Secondary: Two wedge clamps (toggle-over-center) that jam the deck to the rails for vibration-free everyday use.
• Travel stops: At the outside end, add a drop-in steel bollard pin so the deck can’t be pulled too far.

D) Exterior pull system

• Anchors: Two recessed exterior tie-down eyes or a small below-grade deadman beam (e.g., 4 ft length of W6× steel, epoxied and encased in concrete footing) centered with the platform.
• Winch: 2–4 ton come-along kept by the door; or a wall-mounted manual or 120V electric winch outside the garage, with cable routed through a floor-flush fairlead.
• Inside attachment: Weld two low-profile D-rings to the platform nose. (Never hook to the vehicle in a fire scenario—pull the platform, not the truck.)

3) Dimensions & loads (Lightning-specific)

• Vehicle: ~231–243" long; ~80" wide (mirrors folded); curb ~6,800–7,200 lb.
• Platform: 96" W × 240" L deck; rails at ~12" in from edges → ~72" C-C.
• Design load: 12,000 lb (static), 2× safety on locks/anchors.
• Roller count example: 10 wheels × 2,000 lb rating = 20,000 lb combined → robust margin.
• Push/pull force: On clean steel V-wheels over V-track, ~1–2% of gross: plan for 150–250 lbf to start moving; design winch/anchors for 10,000–12,000 lbf to cover grit, slight grades, or binding.

4) Construction sequence (high level)

1. Layout & permits: Confirm slab thickness/rebar (scan GPR), verify you can trench without compromising structure; consult local code & fire marshal.
2. Cut trenches and demo to depth; clean and roughen surfaces.
3. Set rails: Level and align V-tracks perfectly parallel (±1/16" over 20 ft). Dowels at 24" o.c.; grout flush.
4. Fabricate deck frame: Square/flat within 1/8" over full diagonal; install crossmembers; weld on D-rings and wheel mount plates.
5. Install rollers & guides: Align to track; preload just enough to avoid chatter.
6. Decking: Fasten steel plate (stitch weld or countersunk screws into weld tabs).
7. Locks: Core-drill for lock sleeves in slab; install four 1" ID steel liners; mount lock pins and the single-point handle/linkage.
8. Exterior apron: Pour a flush apron (4–6 ft long) outside the door so the deck can roll fully clear; embed the winch deadman and the outer stop pin sleeve.
9. Finish: Anti-slip coating on deck, paint safety edges, add wheel chock receivers (see below).
10. Test: Load incrementally to full weight, verify lock engagement, and conduct a pull-through to the apron and back.

5) Safety & usability features (strongly recommended)

• Integrated wheel chocks: Weld keyhole receivers in the deck for quick-pin aluminum chocks—keeps the truck centered, reduces accidental roll when the platform unlocks.
• Fire direction: Stencil an arrow on the deck showing “Pull This Way →” to avoid hesitation.
• Thermal spacing: 1/2–3/4" gap between moving deck and fixed slab, covered by brush seals; won’t trap debris but keeps embers from dropping into the rails.
• Drain & cleanup: Add two deck scuppers at the exterior end; shop-vac port at the interior end to clear grit in the rails.
• Manual-first release: Single lever that both retracts pins and lifts wedge clamps (linkage interlocked), operable with gloved hands.
• Redundancy: Even if one wheel or pin binds, platform still pulls—rails and D-rings are sized to tolerate uneven loads.
• Outside stop: A 1" drop-in bollard pin engages a hole in the rail when the deck is fully outside—prevents runaway on slight slopes.

6) Materials list (typical)

• Rails: (2) 4"×2"×1/4" rectangular steel tubes, 26' long, with 1" V-track bars welded on top.
• Deck frame: 3"×2"×1/4" rectangular tube perimeter; 2"×2"×3/16" crossmembers @ 12–16" o.c.
• Decking: 1/4" steel tread plate (8'×20'), or 1-1/8" ply + 1/8" steel sheet.
• Rollers: (10–12) steel V-groove wheels w/ sealed bearings, ≥2,000 lb each; matching adjustable brackets.
• Locks: (4) 1" dia spring-loaded steel pins, sleeves, cables/rods, and an interlocked lever.
• Anchorage: Epoxy anchors (ICC-ES rated), non-shrink grout, rebar dowels #4 @ 24" o.c.
• Winch & rigging: 2–4 ton come-along (or 120V wall winch), 3/8" wire rope, 3/4" shackles, fairlead, exterior deadman beam + concrete footing.
• Stops & chocks: 1" bollard pin for outer stop; two aluminum wheel chocks with quick pins.

7) Rough structural sanity check (rule-of-thumb)

• Deck bending: With crossmembers at 12–16" o.c., 1/4" steel plate comfortably carries wheel line loads without oil-canning.
• Rail shear & bearing: At 12,000 lb design, each side sees ~6,000 lb; with 6 wheels/side, that’s ~1,000 lb/wheel—well under a 2,000 lb rated wheel.
• Locking pins: Four 1" pins in double shear can exceed 20,000 lb combined shear capacity with common alloy steels → good margin.

(These are screening calcs only—have a licensed structural engineer check your exact geometry, slab capacity, and anchor schedules.)


8) Operation (emergency drill)

1. Verify the door path is clear.
2. Pull the single release handle (pins retract, wedges lift).
3. Hook the winch from the exterior anchor to the platform D-rings.
4. Pull straight out until the platform reaches the exterior stop pin.
5. Keep distance, call the fire department, and follow their guidance.

9) Alternatives (if you want simpler)

• Air-caster platform: Same deck, but add four industrial air bearings fed by a portable compressor; the deck “floats” and you tow it via guide rails. Fast and very low rolling resistance, but you must keep a compressor handy and the floor relatively smooth/clean.
• Heavy skates only: Four 2-ton vehicle skates under tires. Cheapest, but you still need to reach the wheels and the truck can drift—less ideal for an EV fire scenario.

10) Permits, codes, and checks

• Talk to your AHJ (local building/fire) before cutting a slab. You’re altering egress and introducing a moving structural element.
• Engineer review: Have a PE verify slab trenching, anchors, and track/grout detail.
• Fire dept input: Ask about minimum exterior standoff (often 50+ ft) and water access, and label the release handle for first responders.

If you’d like, I can turn this into a fabrication drawing set with a cut list and anchor schedule, plus an isometric diagram showing the lock linkage and the winch path."

 

[Shmoe]

I'm guessing that neither fire sprinklers nor the FD can contain a 100kWh+ EV fire in a garage......which is why I want to get it outa there in a hurry!

Meanwhile, the rest of us would cut our losses at actually escaping the burning structure intact with our lives and not dwell as much on the loss of insured tangible goods.

 

[Firn]

Wow. Good discussion.

I have to say though, although the question is an interesting one, its a bit misplaced.

By far you should be worrying about increasing the time you have to escape the fire. Full stop, if you are CONSIDERING how to get the vehicle out FIRST find ways to get you and all family out of the structure as early as possible. This may include smoke alarms, heat alarms, or even fancy AI powered security cameras that detect smoke or fire, in truth probably all of them. That also includes Egress systems and routes.

Getting PEOPLE out is the MUCH bigger concern and doing so early, before the fire has spread, should be the number one concern.

After that, a sprinkler that can spray the walls OF THE HOUSE, may be your best bet at saving anything.

Any BEV fire that runs long enough to get people out, likely has spread far enough that you DONT want to be near it.

 

[dmd3home]

Meanwhile, the rest of us would cut our losses at actually escaping the burning structure intact with our lives and not dwell as much on the loss of insured tangible goods.

If it can easily be done, why not do it?
Yes, you do have to be smart enough to do a proper assessment....perhaps some wouldn't have that capability.

 

[dmd3home]

Just ask ChatGPT:

"Got it—here’s a practical, shop-buildable concept for a slide-out, lockable garage floor sized for a Ford F-150 Lightning, so you can pull/push the truck straight outside without touching the transmission.


1) What we’re building (overview)

A flush, drive-on platform that lives where your garage floor is. It rides on two recessed steel rails with high-temperature, sealed steel V-groove wheels. Under normal use it’s locked immovably to the foundation. In an emergency, you release the floor locks, hook a hand winch or vehicle to an exterior anchor, and the entire platform—with the truck on it—slides straight out of the garage onto an exterior apron. No need to put the truck in neutral.

• Target capacity: 12,000 lb (≥1.6x a ~7,200 lb Lightning curb weight), with locking hardware and anchors each rated ≥12,000 lb in shear/tension.
• Footprint (typical 2-car bay): 8 ft (W) × 20 ft (L) platform; rails extend 24–26 ft so the deck can fully clear the door.
• Ride height: Deck surface ends flush with the surrounding slab.

2) Core architecture
A) Rails (recessed and flush)

• Type: 2 parallel steel channels or square tubes hosting welded V-track bars (e.g., 1" wide 90° V track), embedded in trenches cut in the slab.
• Spacing: ~72–74" center-to-center (outside the truck’s wheel tracks) so wheels/axles don’t cross the rails.
• Length: ~25–26 ft (garage depth + a few feet outside).
• Install: Saw-cut 2 trenches ~5–6" wide, ~4–5" deep. Epoxy-anchor the rails to the existing slab with rebar dowels at 24" o.c., then grout with non-shrink grout to bring track tops flush with the garage floor.

B) Carriage deck (the movable floor)

• Frame: Welded rectangular tube perimeter (e.g., 3"×2"×1/4") with crossmembers at 12–16" o.c.
• Decking: 1/4" tread-plate steel or 1-1/8" structural plywood topped with 1/8" steel sheet. (Steel top is durable, heat-tolerant, and accepts wheel chocks.)
• Rollers: 8–12 steel V-groove wheels (2.5–4" dia), sealed bearings, high-temp grease, rated ≥2,000 lb each. Mount in adjustable pillow blocks so they align cleanly on the V-track.
• Guides: Low-friction side guides (UHMW wear strips against a vertical flat on the rail) to prevent racking.

C) Locks (fail-safe, positive)

Use four independent lock points (two per side):

• Primary: Spring-loaded retractable steel pins (1" dia) that shear-lock the deck into sleeves epoxied into the slab. Actuate from a single waist-height handle near the door (Bowden-cable or rod linkage) so you can release without bending down.
• Secondary: Two wedge clamps (toggle-over-center) that jam the deck to the rails for vibration-free everyday use.
• Travel stops: At the outside end, add a drop-in steel bollard pin so the deck can’t be pulled too far.

D) Exterior pull system

• Anchors: Two recessed exterior tie-down eyes or a small below-grade deadman beam (e.g., 4 ft length of W6× steel, epoxied and encased in concrete footing) centered with the platform.
• Winch: 2–4 ton come-along kept by the door; or a wall-mounted manual or 120V electric winch outside the garage, with cable routed through a floor-flush fairlead.
• Inside attachment: Weld two low-profile D-rings to the platform nose. (Never hook to the vehicle in a fire scenario—pull the platform, not the truck.)

3) Dimensions & loads (Lightning-specific)

• Vehicle: ~231–243" long; ~80" wide (mirrors folded); curb ~6,800–7,200 lb.
• Platform: 96" W × 240" L deck; rails at ~12" in from edges → ~72" C-C.
• Design load: 12,000 lb (static), 2× safety on locks/anchors.
• Roller count example: 10 wheels × 2,000 lb rating = 20,000 lb combined → robust margin.
• Push/pull force: On clean steel V-wheels over V-track, ~1–2% of gross: plan for 150–250 lbf to start moving; design winch/anchors for 10,000–12,000 lbf to cover grit, slight grades, or binding.

4) Construction sequence (high level)

1. Layout & permits: Confirm slab thickness/rebar (scan GPR), verify you can trench without compromising structure; consult local code & fire marshal.
2. Cut trenches and demo to depth; clean and roughen surfaces.
3. Set rails: Level and align V-tracks perfectly parallel (±1/16" over 20 ft). Dowels at 24" o.c.; grout flush.
4. Fabricate deck frame: Square/flat within 1/8" over full diagonal; install crossmembers; weld on D-rings and wheel mount plates.
5. Install rollers & guides: Align to track; preload just enough to avoid chatter.
6. Decking: Fasten steel plate (stitch weld or countersunk screws into weld tabs).
7. Locks: Core-drill for lock sleeves in slab; install four 1" ID steel liners; mount lock pins and the single-point handle/linkage.
8. Exterior apron: Pour a flush apron (4–6 ft long) outside the door so the deck can roll fully clear; embed the winch deadman and the outer stop pin sleeve.
9. Finish: Anti-slip coating on deck, paint safety edges, add wheel chock receivers (see below).
10. Test: Load incrementally to full weight, verify lock engagement, and conduct a pull-through to the apron and back.

5) Safety & usability features (strongly recommended)

• Integrated wheel chocks: Weld keyhole receivers in the deck for quick-pin aluminum chocks—keeps the truck centered, reduces accidental roll when the platform unlocks.
• Fire direction: Stencil an arrow on the deck showing “Pull This Way →” to avoid hesitation.
• Thermal spacing: 1/2–3/4" gap between moving deck and fixed slab, covered by brush seals; won’t trap debris but keeps embers from dropping into the rails.
• Drain & cleanup: Add two deck scuppers at the exterior end; shop-vac port at the interior end to clear grit in the rails.
• Manual-first release: Single lever that both retracts pins and lifts wedge clamps (linkage interlocked), operable with gloved hands.
• Redundancy: Even if one wheel or pin binds, platform still pulls—rails and D-rings are sized to tolerate uneven loads.
• Outside stop: A 1" drop-in bollard pin engages a hole in the rail when the deck is fully outside—prevents runaway on slight slopes.

6) Materials list (typical)

• Rails: (2) 4"×2"×1/4" rectangular steel tubes, 26' long, with 1" V-track bars welded on top.
• Deck frame: 3"×2"×1/4" rectangular tube perimeter; 2"×2"×3/16" crossmembers @ 12–16" o.c.
• Decking: 1/4" steel tread plate (8'×20'), or 1-1/8" ply + 1/8" steel sheet.
• Rollers: (10–12) steel V-groove wheels w/ sealed bearings, ≥2,000 lb each; matching adjustable brackets.
• Locks: (4) 1" dia spring-loaded steel pins, sleeves, cables/rods, and an interlocked lever.
• Anchorage: Epoxy anchors (ICC-ES rated), non-shrink grout, rebar dowels #4 @ 24" o.c.
• Winch & rigging: 2–4 ton come-along (or 120V wall winch), 3/8" wire rope, 3/4" shackles, fairlead, exterior deadman beam + concrete footing.
• Stops & chocks: 1" bollard pin for outer stop; two aluminum wheel chocks with quick pins.

7) Rough structural sanity check (rule-of-thumb)

• Deck bending: With crossmembers at 12–16" o.c., 1/4" steel plate comfortably carries wheel line loads without oil-canning.
• Rail shear & bearing: At 12,000 lb design, each side sees ~6,000 lb; with 6 wheels/side, that’s ~1,000 lb/wheel—well under a 2,000 lb rated wheel.
• Locking pins: Four 1" pins in double shear can exceed 20,000 lb combined shear capacity with common alloy steels → good margin.

(These are screening calcs only—have a licensed structural engineer check your exact geometry, slab capacity, and anchor schedules.)


8) Operation (emergency drill)

1. Verify the door path is clear.
2. Pull the single release handle (pins retract, wedges lift).
3. Hook the winch from the exterior anchor to the platform D-rings.
4. Pull straight out until the platform reaches the exterior stop pin.
5. Keep distance, call the fire department, and follow their guidance.

9) Alternatives (if you want simpler)

• Air-caster platform: Same deck, but add four industrial air bearings fed by a portable compressor; the deck “floats” and you tow it via guide rails. Fast and very low rolling resistance, but you must keep a compressor handy and the floor relatively smooth/clean.
• Heavy skates only: Four 2-ton vehicle skates under tires. Cheapest, but you still need to reach the wheels and the truck can drift—less ideal for an EV fire scenario.

10) Permits, codes, and checks

• Talk to your AHJ (local building/fire) before cutting a slab. You’re altering egress and introducing a moving structural element.
• Engineer review: Have a PE verify slab trenching, anchors, and track/grout detail.
• Fire dept input: Ask about minimum exterior standoff (often 50+ ft) and water access, and label the release handle for first responders.

If you’d like, I can turn this into a fabrication drawing set with a cut list and anchor schedule, plus an isometric diagram showing the lock linkage and the winch path."

Sounds like a great idea....though it might be easier to place the truck in neutral and shove/pull it out the door.

 

[dmd3home]

I'm wondering about the guy whose house is downhill from your garage ... here comes a 7,000 Malitave Ford Cocktail!

3 acres of flat, cleared land! Not a solution for everyone.

 

[GoodSam]

Sounds like a great idea....though it might be easier to place the truck in neutral and shove/pull it out the door.

But gotta wear a fire suit to put it into neutral! might be cheaper than this slide out garage floor?

 

[dmd3home]

But gotta wear a fire suit to put it into neutral! might be cheaper than this slide out garage floor?

Again, making my point.....it should be easier. How about being able to place it in neutral on the app?

 

[dmd3home]

Wow. Good discussion.

I have to say though, although the question is an interesting one, its a bit misplaced.

By far you should be worrying about increasing the time you have to escape the fire. Full stop, if you are CONSIDERING how to get the vehicle out FIRST find ways to get you and all family out of the structure as early as possible. This may include smoke alarms, heat alarms, or even fancy AI powered security cameras that detect smoke or fire, in truth probably all of them. That also includes Egress systems and routes.

Getting PEOPLE out is the MUCH bigger concern and doing so early, before the fire has spread, should be the number one concern.

After that, a sprinkler that can spray the walls OF THE HOUSE, may be your best bet at saving anything.

Any BEV fire that runs long enough to get people out, likely has spread far enough that you DONT want to be near it.

Was stated earlier....evacuate and call 911 FIRST!!! Then assess possibility of moving truck..... prioritizing safety. And of course smoke/heat alarms are a must and sprinklers would be great. This all certainly applies to any vehicle fire in a garage.

 

[Shmoe]

If it can easily be done, why not do it?
Yes, you do have to be smart enough to do a proper assessment....perhaps some wouldn't have that capability.

Because I don't believe your thought process aligns with the masses here whatsoever

 

[Firn]

Was stated earlier....evacuate and call 911 FIRST!!! Then assess possibility of moving truck..... prioritizing safety. And of course smoke/heat alarms are a must and sprinklers would be great. This all certainly applies to any vehicle fire in a garage.

My point was that instead of spending the time, effort, money, into a way to move the truck. Instead spend that get alerted EARLIER, buy yourself minutes, even SECONDS, to get outside.

Yes, evacuate, but find a way to do that earlier.

 

[dmd3home]

You are certainly correct.....getting notified as soon as possible is very important.....getting everyone out is paramount as is calling 911. I don't know why some in this discussion don't see that as happening FIRST.

So after all are out and 911 has been called, is there anything I can do to safely mitigate or minimize a complete disaster? Is there a safe way to get the truck out of the garage? If not, DON'T. But if yes, what steps would be required? As I was trying to point out, if there was an easy way to get the truck into neutral, it could be pulled/pushed out of the garage. Why couldn't there be a button on the remote, or a way to do it in the app.....place it in tow mode in the app? That possibly could work with perhaps a few interlocks. I'm just exploring ideas here. I would think firefighters might even be interested in there being such a feature......but of course, saving life is always the priority before saving property.....that doesn't mean that saving a house and surroundings should be neglected completely if it can be done safely.

 

[Shmoe]

You are certainly correct.....getting notified as soon as possible is very important.....getting everyone out is paramount as is calling 911. I don't know why some in this discussion don't see that as happening FIRST.

So after all are out and 911 has been called, is there anything I can do to safely mitigate or minimize a complete disaster? Is there a safe way to get the truck out of the garage? If not, DON'T. But if yes, what steps would be required? As I was trying to point out, if there was an easy way to get the truck into neutral, it could be pulled/pushed out of the garage. Why couldn't there be a button on the remote, or a way to do it in the app.....place it in tow mode in the app? That possibly could work with perhaps a few interlocks. I'm just exploring ideas here. I would think firefighters might even be interested in there being such a feature......but of course, saving life is always the priority before saving property.....that doesn't mean that saving a house and surroundings should be neglected completely if it can be done safely.

Because anyone with any sense stops after the first paragraph.

 

[dmd3home]

I understand. But I certainly don't agree. As in any situation, it depends on the circumstances. I've always lived my life taking care on myself and my own whenever possible. If it's not safe to do so, then back away. Perhaps times have changed and it's the end of rugged individualism and self reliance. I don't like relying on others and prefer to always do what I can for myself and those important to me. Perhaps the world has changed. I'll still strive to do what I can.

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